hi all as above ive cleaned throttle checked for airleaks n gaskets,i allso got a new icv from europart but car runs at 1500rpm which i will stick a video of the problem,but 10 mins ago i unplugged the idie control vavle and it seems to run good but when plug bk in its shit plz help needed on this

 

i would say either amoody iscv or tps, is it running exactly the same as before you replaced the iscv?

 

yea runs the same befor i put new icv in but when i bought the icv,the vavle was open but am sure its spouse be close

 

My old one used to hold the revs up at 1500 when dipping the clutch at traffic lights and such like.
I changed the crankcase breather valve on mine and it sorted it right out without even touching the iscv

Mark.

 

really cheers il give it a go,do you know where about it is lol??

 

its just under exhaust manfold on the right cant miss it and it causes the symptons you refer too as pointed out

 

what they like to replace mate,easy or hard

 

easy but fidley no worse than the iscv under the inlet manifold

 

great lol at least iknow where it is lol just hope it comes off lol

 

mange took egr off,so i shaked it and sound lose

 

I got told that means there knackered as its a spring inside them and obviously if it sounds rattly it ain't very springy lol
Its funny this should come up as i dug one of my old jackets out to wear whilst i did a couple of bits and bobs and guess what was in the pocket still



Along with the little bag with the part number on



I don't know how much they'll be from ford now but i think mine was Ł20 going through my friend that worked there.

Mark.

 

yea they 32 quid inc vat mate and have wait 2 days to

 

32 quids nothing really though if it sorts your problem out

 

true but i unplugged ma icv while running yesterday and ive been told it should have cut out,but it ran just over 900rpm but lumpy

 

the whole reason zetecs idle bad is normally due to air leaks or pipe failures etc, so if the crankcase breather is naff it will effect everything and unplugging the maf does not always make cars cut out, but it should altar the revs etc so you know its doing something

 

Hi, my 1st time on this forum. Try changing the ecu temp sender/sensor. This has worked for me. I'm a mechanic, and work on many different makes of cars. Cheerio

 

its only just come out of garage to find the problem which was fine for one day then went bk to 1500rpm

 

hi welcome,is that nxt to thermastat ??

 

Not sure where abouts it would be, but I do know that if these sensors are faultly or old, they will tell the ecu to give incorrect fuel air mixture. I.E the engine temp is not accurately measured, hence the poor/high tick over. Cheerio

 

when i used to drive it for couple of hours.the needle would not go to middle goes to 1/4 on temp gauge

 

Bingo, that's what your problem is then. ECU thinks the engine is still cool, so it's running on "choke" (old car stuff).
Change the temp sensor linked to the ECU, ask your parts dealer. Not the temp sensor for the dashboard. Whilst you are on that coolant side of things, I would strongly suggest renewing the thermostat and antifreeze. Then once everything is running as it should, change the engine oil and filter,as the engine has probably had too much un- burnt fuel running through the system. Cheerio

 

its just had the best oil and the best antifreeze put into it last week mate,but yea i defo get a thermostat as its just had new water pump

 

i have had a new senor fitted but cant remember what senor it was

 

yea its had new temp senor allways car been in garage for over a year and ive had a airleak test done to and it was fine

 

right ive found where the temp senor is now that one has not been changed so thats first thing am going to do

 

right after changing two senors on the thermosatat housing with new thermastat.when i started it up idie went to 1100 as not been started for 6 days anf i was buzzin thing it was fixed.looked at temp gauge in middle thinking fan should of kicked in by now,so took header tank cap of and put my finger in to test how hot the water was and it was cold so,felt the pipe coming from thermastat housing and it was hot so i pressed it to see if the system had any air in and as i was pressing in the pipe engine dipped to 850rpm but lumpy

 

if the header tank is not getting hot then thermostat is not opening or water pump is not functioning

 

all sorted thanks for replys

 

Right,other day i took fuel injector rail off and found 3 of the 4 seals damage so am hopin this is causing my idie problems.