I'm on wiring in my dash2 dash in my 3dr and got a couple of problems

The brake warning on the dash needs a 12v supply.....

My old clocks work of a negative switch so is the somewhere I can get a live switch from the servo pump system to have a active brake warning light? Im not bothered about having it work of handbrake as long as I know the servo is working.



Another problem in my old clocks must break a circuit to the alternator, because when unplugged my battery won't charge.

Can I just run a ignition live to the alternator replacing the other?

 

Not strictly true, charge will still take place, just you need to rev high first to energize the field windings, and no you don't want a permanent feed to it!

The way this works is via the charge warning light, power is sent via this to the alternator, so really if your digi dash does not have the capacity to do this you would ideally need to run the old bulb outside the cluster, via a switched live feed, the ground for this is the blue wire, which will be in the connector for your original dash!

I say use the original bulb, as the type of bulb is important as well!

The standard brake warning light is 'tri purpose' and it is negatively switched, in that it is a handbrake warning light, pressure low light and fluid low indicator, so akin to your new setup, can you not take the common live from the old dash and use this, or has this been used and you need another live feed?

Martin

 

The dash has the live wire feed for all the lights then each bulb, brake,battery, oil pressure etc have a earth wire which i be leave is the switch.
I have the 1 live wire I have going to the battery light for new dash but won't charge because I've broke the circuit.
So are you saying I need T into this live and add the bulb with the earth to allow it to charge?
Regarding the handbrake light if I add the live to this it will stay on all the time as the live isn't a switch is permanant.

 

All you need to do is use your ign live to the battery light and your brake warning light (t'd off each other) and use your the two earth's coming from your fluid pot (black with red trace I think) and from pressure switch (sub 104 bar) (brown with yellow trace) to put warning light on
And field wire from alternator to other side of battery light
Job done

 

The battery light will work this way but the brake warning light won't, the only way to turn the warning light off is to switch the live off, but the above only switches the negative off, or am I being thick? Lol

 

You could use a relay switched by the earths to turn the live on or off
depending on if you wire it n/c or n/o

 

Never thought of that cheers. Will I have to use 2 relays? 1 or handbrake and 1 from the pump?

 

I suppose you could use 1 relay
You'd have to wire ign live to term 85 earth from brake low pressure and low fluid and hand brake switch(together) to term 86
Ign live to term 30 and your live to warning bulb to term 87
Then whenever ign was on you'd have warning light on with handbrake on or low fluid / low brake master pressure

 

Thanks mate for the help, that was going to be my next question, how to wire relay up but you a step a head of me lol

 

i have a problem with the wiring. i could'nt get the low brake master pressure light to work so ive wired the old clocks back in and it still does'nt work, hand brake light does but not the low brake master pressure.
is there a fuse for this signal wire? where does it come from?

 

I suspect it's from the pressure switch, as when at the correct pressure, the switch turns the pump off, which in turn would do the light as well I should think.



Martin

 

Light goes off after 104bar is made
Pump goes off after 140 bar

Brown wire to pressure switch is earth
Brown/yellow is sub 104 bar earth (puts light on)
Brown/black is switch earth to pump relay.
David

 

Sorted now thanks to David.
Was a bad connection to the pump switch