My first ST24
first thing to look for is get the bonnet up and get them to rev the engine if you hear a ticking sound when reving walk away a good sign of head gaskit failing
My only advice is get a well specced 2 litre zetec! About the same speed, drinks less fuel, much more tuneable, more reliable, and when things do go wrong, you literally trip over these engines in the breakers.
rust on the arches + underneath, scrathes on windows where the strip in side door rubber has corroded and scratches window evertime it goes up and down (nothing serious just a way of knocking off a few Ł), and check that ALL the doors lock and unlock together with central locking,
hi this is what the bloke said about the car is it an easy fix.
passenger rear door doesnt always lock with the central locking i push it in from the inside and it causes no problem and locks.
passenger rear door doesnt always lock with the central locking i push it in from the inside and it causes no problem and locks.
bout Ł80 maybe more for rear lock from ford,have to change whole mechanism, very very fiddly job but is possible to do yourself with help of a haynes manual etc, i did it twice on my old car, hence what i wrote on my previous post about central locking,
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Check the under carpet in boot and wheel well for water, as rear lights can leak. If it an earier ST24 97/98 car may have black plastic water pump impellor which can break up, ask if changed to metal impellor.
When test driving you should between 3-4k revs should feel it pickup, this is hopefully secondaries opening, if not the IRMC box could be fried. Also the secondaries like a clean/decoke every so often as they get quite dirty.
As said check all the central locking on doors works, motors can pack up, about Ł80 from Ford, but about Ł10-Ł15 from a scrappy.
Suspension springs can snap, not always obvious, mine wasn't luckily stayed within strut.
May sound alot, but even later ones like mine are 10+ years old now so had a few problems over the years, but great cars.
When test driving you should between 3-4k revs should feel it pickup, this is hopefully secondaries opening, if not the IRMC box could be fried. Also the secondaries like a clean/decoke every so often as they get quite dirty.
As said check all the central locking on doors works, motors can pack up, about Ł80 from Ford, but about Ł10-Ł15 from a scrappy.
Suspension springs can snap, not always obvious, mine wasn't luckily stayed within strut.
May sound alot, but even later ones like mine are 10+ years old now so had a few problems over the years, but great cars.
Love to hear this, the infamous V6 'tick'. they tick when the EMG goes aswel, but everyone has heard about the 'tick', and assume its the head gasket, and runs a mile
You could try WD40 on it to clean all the muck out, but this may just prolong the inevitable failure, good news if it is a rear door, I found the my rear door lock mechanism easy to replace, but the front drivers door was a bit fiddly, as less room.
Check the under carpet in boot and wheel well for water, as rear lights can leak. If it an earier ST24 97/98 car may have black plastic water pump impellor which can break up, ask if changed to metal impellor.
When test driving you should between 3-4k revs should feel it pickup, this is hopefully secondaries opening, if not the IRMC box could be fried. Also the secondaries like a clean/decoke every so often as they get quite dirty.
As said check all the central locking on doors works, motors can pack up, about Ł80 from Ford, but about Ł10-Ł15 from a scrappy.
Suspension springs can snap, not always obvious, mine wasn't luckily stayed within strut.
May sound alot, but even later ones like mine are 10+ years old now so had a few problems over the years, but great cars.
When test driving you should between 3-4k revs should feel it pickup, this is hopefully secondaries opening, if not the IRMC box could be fried. Also the secondaries like a clean/decoke every so often as they get quite dirty.
As said check all the central locking on doors works, motors can pack up, about Ł80 from Ford, but about Ł10-Ł15 from a scrappy.
Suspension springs can snap, not always obvious, mine wasn't luckily stayed within strut.
May sound alot, but even later ones like mine are 10+ years old now so had a few problems over the years, but great cars.
Running 200bhp, make sure you see the proof! Mine's running Superchips bluefin and didn't really gain any topend, but transformed the thru rev range drivebility, which I'm happy with as you use it more day to day.
Don't know the spec of car you going to see, but be surprised if chiping it made an extra 30bhp, or Ford would of done it to the ST200.
Even the standard ST200s I've seen rolling roaded struggled to get their magic 200, and they have different manifolds, cams, injectors, throttle body etc over the ST24.
Not saying it can't be done, but it the exception rather than the rule and if Ford struggled to make the ST200 get to 200ps then it says alot.
Don't know the spec of car you going to see, but be surprised if chiping it made an extra 30bhp, or Ford would of done it to the ST200.
Even the standard ST200s I've seen rolling roaded struggled to get their magic 200, and they have different manifolds, cams, injectors, throttle body etc over the ST24.
Not saying it can't be done, but it the exception rather than the rule and if Ford struggled to make the ST200 get to 200ps then it says alot.
Last edited by STEVEST24; Dec 3, 2011 at 05:38 PM.
It's a bad thing in that the owner's bullshitting you. There's not a chance it's got anywhere near 200bhp, unless he's put an ST200 engine in - 'chipping' an ST24 will get you very little in the way of an increase, and no where near 30bhp!
Yeah got it pull really well in second you can feel it kick in like its got another gear.After crimbo ill be getting some mods nothing to over the top suttle i think.you lot can give me some ideas and web sites.
Yeah that's the one,yeah i'm pleased you guys helped by telling me wot to look out for which i did as my first ST no tapping or ticking engine quiet some surface rust underneath but not worried needs exhaust and induction kit need to know where to get one from don't like the steering wheel to big,gonna get shot of the old stereo for new.the front drivers tyre looks like its flat but i put 29psi in this mornning but still looks flat any ideas
Wahay!! I've lost my Virginity!!
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 67
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From: Newton Aycliffe, Co Durham
Looks like this one thats still on ebay, unless you've put it back up for sale already
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1998-FORD-...ht_1643wt_1270
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1998-FORD-...ht_1643wt_1270
If you want more power out of it, then your best bet it to fit ST200 stuff that comes up on eBay from time to time - Throttle body, cams, upper and lower inlet manifolds (UIM, LIM). Then fit an air filter (either a shrouded one, or one with a good cold air feed), remove the pre-cats, fit a decent exhaust and then get it mapped to suit the mods. You'll be getting towards 200bhp with all that fitted.
Unfortunately extracting power out of them isn't easy, or cheap, but it is possible.
It's also worth moving the IRMC (the bit that opens up the secondary inlet and gives you that 'kick') from the front of the engine to under the battery tray, otherwise they can get fried!
Unfortunately extracting power out of them isn't easy, or cheap, but it is possible.
It's also worth moving the IRMC (the bit that opens up the secondary inlet and gives you that 'kick') from the front of the engine to under the battery tray, otherwise they can get fried!
i take it if ticking under load and when the engine get hot the ticking stops would that be the EMG more to the point whats the emg only asking as ic an st24 lol
The ticking it either the Exhaust Manifold Gasket(s) or the Head Gasket. The Duratec V6 has a weak point in the gasket which causes the gasket to blow, but it blows to atmosphere, so looses no water, nor oil, just ticks!
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