ive seen some cars have 2 beather tanks in the set up, dave had it on Yum and fudgey also had that sort of set up but just wondering how it all plumbed in and the benifits

i got a imprea that has 2 heads but the breather tanks available only seem to have a catch tank with 2 ports and they seem to T- the 3 ports on the engine together and then vent to atmosphere but it leaves the manifold 1 way valve not connected

i know that cossies have 2 block breathers 1 head and 1 return to the sump/catch can and one at the bottom to atmosphere

i currently have a old cossie breather from my cossie i never bothered selling ( surprise there pmsl) so wondering can i fit that set up to a catch can set up perhaps

anyone give me a guide of the 2 can set up ect please

 

Anyone please help out a ugly fat ginger guy please

 

from one fat ginner to another mate ,


fudgeys didnt run twin tanks . one one a header and small one breather ,




i know, i now own them lol


beef

 

isnt one for cooling and seperation then a higher one that breaths to atmosphere ??

 

one is a catch tank

 

Daves and Rods one both use seperators inside them and works very well, The design I did over 7years ago and theres a bit more going on inside the tanks than it looks.

Mark

 

OK I AM NO FUTHER FORWARD

the 2 tanks please explain how the idea works ( i dont mean whats the special inside thing on makes) but the theory behind it/purpose and how its wired it

reason i ask is i have to try and find a breather system for my subaru and the systems on offer dont make sence to me OR and this is prob the reason I DONT UNDERSTAND HOW BREATHERS WORK

 

I remeber Stu did a few pages in fast ford on these a few months ago maybe worth a search on their page for the lowdown there mate, sure he went through all the scenario's, or just buy Mark's looks like he has a few things up his sleeve there lol

 

What im assuming is insidw the tanks are seperated but cant you just plumb both crank and heads together in line to 1 breather port or is the crank case seperated from the heads inside the breather then venting to atmosphere

sorry to ask but cossie breathers seem alot more involved than a subaru which is crank and heads into a catchtank on 1 port and the oher port vents at the top of the tank to atmosphere and collects oil in the catch tank at the same time

 

The Cossie needs a very good breather to work at high hp, if the Scooby doesnt just use the normal style catch can.

Mark

 

http://www.grahamgoode.com/breath.htm

reading this it sounds like it makes no odds where they end up at aslong as the engine can breath free so in theory all three outlets on my impreza could go into a bottle aslong as there is a hole at the top to allow to breath to atmosphere rather than use the breather valve on the block or back into the airfilter

basically the crank case breather on a subaru goes to the PCV valve on the manifold and the ones on the heads go to the inlet hose to the turbo just after the air filter but before the throttle

so does this mean put a plug in the manifold and just connect all three to a pipe that leads to a general catch tank and all is mint and gravy aslong as the pipes are big enough

ive done the breather for the gearbox but all ive done for that is put a -10 90 degree connector and a long hose raising the pipe along and up to the engine bay into another catch can and the other outlet i have left bare as its to relieve the gearbox gas/air pressure build up so it dont spit out gearbox oil from the seals ( like my first gearbox was doing when driven hard),,,,,,,,,,, it seems a car breather system is in reality no different apart from the rings cause the extra pressure into the crankcase from ring blowby

is it really that simples ? the car breathers are to burn off the oil vapours/deposts rather than cause globle warming ?

by venting to atmosphere is the reason why im wearing tshirts in the middle of october,,,,,,, hum,,,,,,, wonder what im gonna be doing ?????

 

thing is i have a cossie breather already that has a few ports and a return to sump and atmosphere ( not the ggr type one but the more comon cylinder types you see)

seems like i can use that and be sorted, just use one outlet to feed the catchtank aswell and maybe block off the return to the sump perhaps (is returning to the sump a good idea and do you spit that much oil into a breather to notice a difference ?)

 

there are 2 inputs (one from the head, one from the block) and 2 exhausts (one back to the sump and one that carries on to the other tank) on the catch tank
this then has an inlet (from the catch tank) and an exhaust (vents to atmosphere)

the catch tank (the first one) has a plate inside so when the misty oil hits the plate from the 2 inlets the vapour condenses onto the plate and dribbles back down into the sump again

the second exhaust then lets any still misty oil go onto the second tank and this tank then catches any remaining oil

if there is STILL misty oil then this goes out the system somewhere else and vents to atmosphere so you only loose a bit of oil

at least that's the theory, if you have to vents in the scooby then you simply do the same thing, if you've got 3 then just join them up, it's not like you will cause a restriction is it











*some of the above might not be true, but i think it is

 

damn you and your fast typing

 

This should help you understand how they work.



Click it...

 

The breather setup RCM sell ( or purchase via Lateral ) is a complete package.

It works and is pretty much fit and forget. But no, it isnt overly cheap.

If a system uses 2 tanks, it is because of design flaws in the primary tank, because it doesnt actually prevent deposits getting spewed out. That may be because of bad design, or limitations due to space or other reasons. Although if the latter, move it to where there is space instead.

A proper setup will have adequate volume, good oil/air separation so nothing but air comes out the "vent" and would have a drain back into the sump below oil level to return any oil collected.

And pretty much any of the stuff you see on egay, is complete and utter useless shite on every count, other than perhaps being shiny.

An even better and fullproof design would have a filtration system inside. But good internal baffling is usually sufficient.

Actually a good well filtered design here, although it does still lack a return to the sump, so would need manually drained/cleaned

http://autospeed.com/cms/A_111060/article.html

And you dont need to understand how they work. Just buy the RCM one that does work.

Although it really is an incredibly simple thing

You want air to pass through unhindered. You want any fluids to be caught.

There is nothing difficult to understand