whats the difference between the models on the evo 6s

what power are they standard, what can be done to them resonably to keep them reliable aswell

and what do we need to look out for on them, is rust a big factor?

ive heard the transmission needs servicing every 1500 miles for oil changes is this true?

any advice please

 

The VI are all 280 bhp from the factory
Very easy to get and run a reliable 340
Hidden chassis rust is now becoming an issue ( see MLR threads on rust)
AYC fluid needs changed every 4500'miles (<Ł100)
They are pretty robust
Look out for Ayc pump, noisy transfer box, disks and clutch are expensive compared to a Cossie.
Rs/Rs2 models much better on track as they do away with Ayc and have lsd's and stronger diff handle much better. Rs2 has benefit of Gsr refinements with Rs handling.

TME ( tommi mak)' is a GSR ltd edition with a few small tweaks looks good but just drives much like a GSR. Having said that most evo have been modified in some way so it will just come down to the spec of what you are buying.

UK importer did a ltd edition based on Rs2 called extreme which was rare and quick.

I preferred the Rs models great fun on a track.

 

so really the main thing is the ayc then on the gsr models

can this be done by myself? or do i need to have it done at specialised dealers?

 

Rich, if you want BIG BHP which i'm sure you will as said, get the RS Sprint, RS in general actually, i've had the RS and the Tommi Mak, RS is better..

 

not after big power mate, its gona be a daily hence want all the lux on it but more concerned about the ayc oil changes arnt a problem but i dont know nothing about the ayc or where it works or how it works lol

 

All the specialists can do the ayc fluid change for you its not expensive, not sure about doing it DIY though, there is a tool you need to reset it.

Buy an Rs model and then you dont have to worry about AYC, they drive better without it and its one less thing to go wrong (and the AYC pump will need replaced at some stage I have had to change them before on MR models at less than 50k miles even with fsh).

2nd hand pumps are about Ł400 and easy to fit but think you might need a special tool to reset the system.

 

the rs model doesnt have abs or any creature comforts though does it

plus seems be a lot more money than the gsr

what needs resetting on the ayc then

 

RS2 was only uk supplied RS model of the 6 and they come with aircon, elec windows, c/locking, stereo, brembos etc, they had horrible seats but most have since had recaro's fitted by their owners making them same spec inside as other evo's./

 

Fook the abs or any creature comforts pointless its albout the drive!!!

if thats what your after buy a bm

 

the ayc if its noisy is just a fluid change and is just Ł30 if you do it yourself as its easy on the 5 and 6's never normally any issue with box's or diff's some will crunch in 3rd but thats it , the main difference with e gsr and rs diffs is the gsr are case they sit in the gsr are weaker alloy to the rs are steal casing but you have to be a animal to break them in the gsr (sheady broke his at 550bhp+ by mad launching ) .Rust is a issue on the imports if not sealed regulary . oh to add the rs is a lighter car .Brakes are Ł140 for mintex or ferodo pads diskes about the same for bd ,clutches are around Ł400 for a stage 1 organic which will handle 350 bhp easily and will take around 4-5 hours to change

 

from what im reading the ayc only controls the rear diff and if it fails the diff will just work as an open diff without causing damage and by the look sof it the main cause is pump failure due to not enough fluid changes

carnt find an rs models and tbh i want creature comforts lol

 

Rich the gsr is a great car and you right about the diff if the ayc fails but you can get a decent s/h pump for Ł250 and there a 30 min fit

 

yeah but its the bleeding of the system which from what ive read is the pain in the arse lol

 

no there a write up on the mlr http://www.lancerregister.com/showth...t=ayc+bleeding

really easy