My cars running hot on long journeys, a steady 80-90mph cruise sees the temps rising so the fans are on constantly... If i dissconnect the fans the temps seem to come down slightly - i guess at that speed the fans are restricting the airflow over the rad. Also i noticed, the car runs hotter when theres alot of electrical load on, IE lights on and sub cranked up... Maybe the limit of the alternator is effecting the temp/fan sensors signals?

Ive got a Radtec FMIC, Airtec rad and turbo cooler!

 

Try fitting an 82 degree thermostat and uprated fan switch from msd mate that should solve your problem

 

Hi Rogey!!

I´ve got same problem mate!!
I thought it was the old radiator but after fitting new Airtec radiator the past weekend the car run hot on highway, not on the town. I think it is due my Airtec front mount intercooler, restricting airflow to the radiator......
Did you test the MSD fan switch? Where sit the water temp needle running on town and on the motorway?
I´ve got a auxiliary digital water temp gauge and it reads 100ş celsius running on motorway (Dash water needle sits on "R") and 94şcelsius on town (Dash water needle sits low, between white and "M") and the fans never cut off.
I think my dash water sensor is fucked too.....

Also I changed the wiring installation of Fans and now the water temp needle sits in same place after turn on the lights, before renewed installation needle moved up a bit after turn on the lights......Maybe this could answer your last question.....Drop voltage effecting water sensor due a poor and old wiring fans intallation.

Mate, don´t forget to send me the pics of the spares we were talk about in the P.Ms

CheeRS

 

Anvini, I wont m8 had a busy few weeks sorry!

Ive got an 82c stat and MSD fan switch in the car, and still the prob remains...

 

Ok mate!! Take your time...........

Another question:
Which T3 turbo do you have? Standard or Staged?

 

hi mate,

i had the same set up but no issues with cooling. Had twin 11s on the rad, 82deg thermo and fan switch, plus the turbo water pipes were still connected!

 

Hi

Do you have a auxiliary water temp gauge or do you read water temps in Dash gauge?
What water temps do you have?

 

Im using the standard dash gauge... I might get an auxiliary gauge, but im sure it running hot because the fans are on when im driving around... Esp at motorway speeds. My fans, 10s or 11s Spal's are on the front of the IC. But once they come on, when stationary they hold/control the water temp and eventually bring it down.
The uprated MSD switch made it worse, meant fans were pretty much on constantly...

 

was your rad new?

I first fitted the msd switch and thermo when i was running my old rad. Noticed the fans stayed on, turns out i had a leak in the rad which i later found out whilst on a blast with my bro's scooby loll

 

the only difference between mine and yours was that mine had the fans on the rad

 

I would recommend putting the spal fans on the rad as i am sure this will help as mine are in between my standard rad and my grs and i have no heating issues

 

I have MSD temp switch, 82 thermostat, alloy airtec rad, airtec front mount I/C, 2 spal fans on the rad and other one behind the rad as sucker. Also stage 2 not water cooled T3. i have the same problem. i think the problem is from the I/C. I was thinking to try put the I/C lower with some way... or to put a turbo cooler in the water cirquit...

 

One question- FMIC, what is the space between it and the rad?

 

in mine something arround 8-10 cm....

 

My FMIC sits around 10mm from the RAD at one end and 20-25mm at the other... The Airtec rad doesnt sit quite square, i had thought about getting another sucker fan on the back of the rad. But the issue is really the airflow over the rad at motorway speeds... I am even thinking about changing the FMIC to a Charge Cooler!
I have a Turbo Cooler before the rad, cooling the hot water from turbo with a small fan on the back of that aswell!

 

def, you need them to be as close as possible, 25mm is too much imo, 5-10mm is ok, the airflow slows down too much if the gap is too big

 

Agree'd with chaffe above, i run with my intercooler nearly touching the rad. I don't have any of the problems above. My fans are in front of the intercooler.

I also control my fans from the ecu, so can decide when they cut in etc, which may help.

At the moment my car runs at a steady 88deg C with temps altering by +/- 2deg's when warm and driving. Im not sure what temp it is on the motor way but its fairly close to normal maybe a little under.

Rob,

Rob,

 

Hi
I´ve got the spal fans on the rad and same heating issues as Rogey and Tasos77......
Sure is for the I/C......

I think those Front mount Intercoolers are dessigned keeping in mind ambient temperatures of Northern countries, which are usually colder than southern countries.....

On hot countries, fitting this type of I/C is a good improvement in ACT but they block the airflow to the radiator causing serious heating issues on radiator water temps....

The best is to fit a good intercooler without block the airflow to the radiator.....but not easy on RS Turbos, not enough free space on the front of them....

 

As said, spal fans, radtec intercooler, pace alloy rad, twin spal fans INFRONT of the intercooler and the smallest possible space between the rad and the cooler is working perfectly for me.

Rob,

 

I dont have any heating issues with fans in between and neither do most people running with a grs intercooler, and all front mounts block airflow to the rad to a certain degree some worse than others!!

 

Maybe the radtec is poor for airflow...? Might be worth trying another IC i guess? I'll try adjusting the rad/IC so they sit closer together, but there isnt that much adjustment on them!
My NA engine used to sit cooler on a motorway run than round town!

 

Have used radtec and grs and never had a problem with either of them.

 

As above Roger, my last set up which had a suspect head gasket used a GRS cooler and stock rad, it over cooled on the motor way.

Currently i have a rad tec cooler and pace rad and the temps always seem perfect.

Rob,

 

I run a Radtec IC with a stock Rad and have no problems, perhaps checking your temps with an accurate gauge to see if you are really running hot? Might just be the gauge playing up.

 

i thought the radtec sat pretty close to the rad, i trialled mine and it was close but i ended up with the fans on my rad.

See my for sale post, you'll see the fans covering the entire rad nicely

 

I run a grs front mount and airtec rad with twin spal fans between them. I also run 82c stat and msd switch.

Mine is fine temp wise unless driven hard for 15 mins (1.6 bar boost) then it will get hot, 96ish. I have been advised to drill 2 or 3 3mm holes in the thermostat to allow the water round faster and will be doing this to mine soon.

If I remember, I will add to this post any improvements.

 

Maybe its not the radtec then... I cant seem to get the rad to sit perfectly square, one side sits back more than the other! I thought the turbo cooler would cure the prob but it hasnt made any diff, which would suggest the turbo isn't working overly hard and getting too hot (at 0.8bar i wouldnt think it should lol) Im running an Orion bumper will a full size number plate, i thought about maybe trying it with a smaller plate and/or modding the bumper if all else fails and it proves to be an airflow issue!

What about sealing the IC to the rad in some way?

 

Also i'll try and check the actual coolant temps with a proper gauge...

 

Oh also my IC is no where near my rad, there is probably an inch or more between them so anyone saying they need to be really close or touching is wrong IMO and my car is pushed hard at times, I never see over 110degrees even when driven hard on a hot day (25deg ambient for example).

 

Karlos what temps do your fans come in at? What is your average running temps?
I think mine is running around 90c (just when the fans come on) on the motorway, if driven hard that can rise...

 

Don't get me wrong mate, not saying they NEED to be close, but i think it definitely helps improve air flow through the rad. The larger the gap the larger the pressure drop. (im using the term pressure loosely).

TBH though, the cooling systems ability to cool should be at its peak on the motorway, how much does your car over heat Roger? Could it be the thermostat closing because the coolant temp has dropped? maybe a slightly sticky stat....?

Rob,

 

Around 88deg mate, average running temps probably 85-95deg.
You are right of course Rob, but IME the cooling systems ability to keep the engine at the correct temp is more than enough and if your getting hot you have another problem.. Lean, retarded, poorly seated head, blocked radiator, pipes, waterways, etc...
I ran 26psi on my .36/50 causing very high temps (and the turbine wheel to melt the tips and break off blades) and yet still never seen over 110deg.

 

That still makes me laugh

 

It lasted a whole year!

 

Karlos i think you've hit the nail there... Lean or Retarded - Theres something not right about the way my car is fuelling! Even after ive adjusted the fuel pressure, its still not 100% altho i can't prove it without an AFR gauge.

Rob - on the motorway it goes up to just below the red block at the top, its a brand new 82c stat then if i park up and sit for 2-3mins the fans bring the temps back down! Also if i boot it the temps shoot up and then i have to cruise around at 50mph to bring em down again, or sit with fans on. Any more than 70/75mph at cruise at the creep up.

Since ive turbo'd the car the fuelling has always been an issue (if not just in my head) but the beiges/195 chip doesnt work properly and the car used to hesistate at cruise. Increasing the fuel pressure has cured the hesitation, im on 3bar now at idle... All this is just more reason for me to look at MS, so i can monitor and adjust things accordingly!

 

oh fuck me yes

 

You definitely need to get an afr gauge mate 100% before you fit megasquirt. This is what i use:

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/AEM-GAUGE-6-in...item45eff60fa0

And this one is being bid up at the moment so could be a bargain!

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/AEM-UEGO-Wide-...item231220ccc4

I guess you could be running very lean on cruise which could cause high temps, but my gauge sits just below red @90deg which isn't overheating.

I'll drop you a PM later Roger

 

Cheers Rob... If 90 is just below red then its not 2 bad i guess!

 

The AFR gauges look good, wheres yours mounted out of interest?
Are they a simple wire in and go fitment?

 

That might not be true for all cars mate as i could have the wrong sender fitted etcetc, but still worth checking.

Mines mounted on the windscreen pillar, ill take a pic if you like, they are very simple to wire in, +12v, GND, then a connector block to the lambda sensor. You have to drill your down pipe and weld a boss on. It took me an hour to fully fit it.

The gauge comes with the weld on boss too, so you could just whip your down pipe off then visit a friendly welders.

Rob,