2wd turbo/manifold removal...absolute twat
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I'm Finding My Feet Here Now
Joined: Oct 2007
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From: west midlands
just been removing my turbo and exhaust manifold...what an absolute shite job?!
just took ages...is it a case that when they were in the factory they bolted everything to the head before it was fitted to the block as some of the nuts are very awkward to get to?
any way...
got some new gaskets to fit as it was blowing and also a new exhaust system...but...where the manifold splits with the 12 point aero bolts can you buy a gasket for this???...obviously its twenty years old and i am not relying on machined faces!
or shal i re-machine it flat or make a gasket out of the millions of exhaust gaskets i have got in boxes in the garage???
you not supposed to use exhaust assembly paste before the turbo are you???
cheers
just took ages...is it a case that when they were in the factory they bolted everything to the head before it was fitted to the block as some of the nuts are very awkward to get to?
any way...
got some new gaskets to fit as it was blowing and also a new exhaust system...but...where the manifold splits with the 12 point aero bolts can you buy a gasket for this???...obviously its twenty years old and i am not relying on machined faces!
or shal i re-machine it flat or make a gasket out of the millions of exhaust gaskets i have got in boxes in the garage???
you not supposed to use exhaust assembly paste before the turbo are you???
cheers
Thread Starter
I'm Finding My Feet Here Now
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 119
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From: west midlands
is that all it needs just machining flat? i dont want to face it off with emery or anything iirc i dont think it was actually blowing from there...just from manifold to head and the turbo to manifold...but i have separated the join though now so obviously it will blow like fook...or wont it?
Thread Starter
I'm Finding My Feet Here Now
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 119
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From: west midlands
shal i give it a quick clean with scoth brite then and bang it back together? was tempted to get the manifold shot blasted and am i right in thinking that the copmressor housing just unbolts so i can get that polished up? cheers
Give it a quick clean up with some fine wet and dry paper and see how bad it is. if work is needed find a nice thick flat peice of glass and spread out some fine valve grinding paste then basicly rub the mating surfaces (much like lapping a valve) until your happy. the glass is very important as its completely flat. This method will take the high spots of hard meterial in just a few mins so dont go mad!!! the securing bolts are self tightening 10lbs torque only!!!
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Thread Starter
I'm Finding My Feet Here Now
Joined: Oct 2007
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From: west midlands
yh thats another thing...do you have to use aerotight nuts? i dont mind spending money but 60 quid for a set of studs and nuts!!!
surely i can just use m8 studs and brass nuts or brass washers and stainless nuts...or not???
this is the only manifold i have ever seen with aerotight nuts on...are they really that essential???
surely i can just use m8 studs and brass nuts or brass washers and stainless nuts...or not???
this is the only manifold i have ever seen with aerotight nuts on...are they really that essential???
Thread Starter
I'm Finding My Feet Here Now
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 119
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From: west midlands
4x4 looks farxfar easier to remove...more space...i dont know how you are physically meant to tighten the nuts to the head on a 2wd...its virtually impossible to get good leverage on half the nuts that are underneath...i could not even get a socket on the majority...nor a ring spanner...was cringing trying to unbolt 20 year old nuts with an open ended spanner...turbo was a bastard to...it had been mated up slightly on the piss so two nuts on one side were easy to undo and the other to were cunts
use the correct bolts and dont skimp!! they are there for a reason. the weight of the turbo and the amount it moves breaks the manifolds Hence the turbo damper. incorect bolts will just shear of even stainless steel will break and then you wont be able to drill the broken stud out of the manifold costing you far more than £60!! what is wrong with the bolts you took out?
use the correct bolts and dont skimp!! they are there for a reason. the weight of the turbo and the amount it moves breaks the manifolds Hence the turbo damper. incorect bolts will just shear of even stainless steel will break and then you wont be able to drill the broken stud out of the manifold costing you far more than £60!! what is wrong with the bolts you took out?
Thread Starter
I'm Finding My Feet Here Now
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 119
Likes: 0
From: west midlands
i have ordered some studs and nuts now...not from any where off ebay...from an engineering firm so should be better quality and half the price...however when looking at the spec the m8 aerotight nuts...even the dearest ones they had...which i ordered...are only good for 300 degrees c...is this gonna make any odds? they are aircraft grade but just found it strange!!!
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