bought myself a 2wd saff
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I'm Finding My Feet Here Now
Joined: Oct 2007
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From: west midlands
bought myself a 2wd saff
just bought myself a 2wd sierra in white...solid underneath and bodywork is in good nick and generally its good condition...just after a bit of advice now...
first of all it drives a bit rough or saggy shal i say, its got konis on the front and standard suspension on the back so i either need a new set of suspension or some secong hand stuff that good if anyone has any kicking about!
also i didnt know whether or not to poly bush the whole thing and just wanted some info as what kit to use...seeen some stuff on ebay and there is powerflex which is quite expensive, there is a compnay that is selling front and rear kits for about 160 or should i just get new strut tops and all the bushes i need either genuine or pattern parts from a motor factors?
need to sort out a few little bits i.e. leather is a bit worn and i also need some new door mouldings/side strips if anyone knows where i can find some or have some decent condition ones they are willing to sell...
then its down to the engine...its got to be running stage one because if all the management is standard then i have a split in a vac pipe or a broken amal valve because the thing is stupid...standard air box the lot!
i think i wanna make it probably stage three which consists or correct me if i am wrong...greens, the correct chip a -34 and air filter decent exhaust and intercooler??? so if anyone has any of these parts for a reasonable price to then let me know!
any more info would be appreciated cheers!
first of all it drives a bit rough or saggy shal i say, its got konis on the front and standard suspension on the back so i either need a new set of suspension or some secong hand stuff that good if anyone has any kicking about!
also i didnt know whether or not to poly bush the whole thing and just wanted some info as what kit to use...seeen some stuff on ebay and there is powerflex which is quite expensive, there is a compnay that is selling front and rear kits for about 160 or should i just get new strut tops and all the bushes i need either genuine or pattern parts from a motor factors?
need to sort out a few little bits i.e. leather is a bit worn and i also need some new door mouldings/side strips if anyone knows where i can find some or have some decent condition ones they are willing to sell...
then its down to the engine...its got to be running stage one because if all the management is standard then i have a split in a vac pipe or a broken amal valve because the thing is stupid...standard air box the lot!
i think i wanna make it probably stage three which consists or correct me if i am wrong...greens, the correct chip a -34 and air filter decent exhaust and intercooler??? so if anyone has any of these parts for a reasonable price to then let me know!
any more info would be appreciated cheers!
You need either Koni's at the back or standard at the front, I am currently trying to source some standard front shocks and standard springs and as there NLA from Ford, i'm left trying to get secondhand so far to no avail!
It could be down to the choice of springs mine rides a rough as a wrestler as someone has decided to fit some horrible Eibach springs, if the backs are the orignal dampers that came with the car then these are probably past there best. Personally I have been looking at the Avo Std height springs, Ahmed Bayjoo springs are also a good choice.
It's most likely a stage 1 tune, this is standard components anyway (Your injectors should be yellow) you may have a -31 actuator already which will come in handy (See below) Standard airbox doesen't mean anything, it's just some change for induction cones.
If stage one it will be running circa 15PSI, this should see around 280HP and more importantly alot more torque than standard.
For stage 3 you need either greens or preferably Siemens 55LB, 3 BAR map sensor, -31 actuator is fine don't need a -34. Don't really need an exhaust although it may have benefits.
Also at this stage the turbo is usually uprated to a T34 but it's not a unified standard of what needs to be changed.
Most importantly you MUST check the fuel pump and the cooling fan wiring and ideally rewire them if they haven't been already.
Basically the fuel pump can't get the power it needs under load due to the OE wiring degrading over the years and building up resistance, this can worst case scenario result in a meltdown!
The fan wiring was substandard to start with this is caused by the fans staying on for prolonged periods of time leading to melted fuses in the fusebox. Again a rewire is simple and DIY or you can buy looms premade for both of the above.
Martin
It could be down to the choice of springs mine rides a rough as a wrestler as someone has decided to fit some horrible Eibach springs, if the backs are the orignal dampers that came with the car then these are probably past there best. Personally I have been looking at the Avo Std height springs, Ahmed Bayjoo springs are also a good choice.
It's most likely a stage 1 tune, this is standard components anyway (Your injectors should be yellow) you may have a -31 actuator already which will come in handy (See below) Standard airbox doesen't mean anything, it's just some change for induction cones.
If stage one it will be running circa 15PSI, this should see around 280HP and more importantly alot more torque than standard.
For stage 3 you need either greens or preferably Siemens 55LB, 3 BAR map sensor, -31 actuator is fine don't need a -34. Don't really need an exhaust although it may have benefits.
Also at this stage the turbo is usually uprated to a T34 but it's not a unified standard of what needs to be changed.
Most importantly you MUST check the fuel pump and the cooling fan wiring and ideally rewire them if they haven't been already.
Basically the fuel pump can't get the power it needs under load due to the OE wiring degrading over the years and building up resistance, this can worst case scenario result in a meltdown!
The fan wiring was substandard to start with this is caused by the fans staying on for prolonged periods of time leading to melted fuses in the fusebox. Again a rewire is simple and DIY or you can buy looms premade for both of the above.
Martin
+1
Thread Starter
I'm Finding My Feet Here Now
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 119
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From: west midlands
lol cheers...yh 280 sounds about right i have had many cars that are front wheel drive and around 250 to 300 brake mark but more modern and obviosly 280 brake of roar power is gonna feel a lot quicker than boost limiters in first and second...i dont think the fans have been rewired but they do work as was out in it today and when we got in the fans kicked in so i left it ticking over for a few mins then they cut out on there own...well only one was working actually...is there any how to guides on doing this or is it just a case of tracing the wires back and making a new loom...
as regards to the fuel pump well there is an old one in the boot so obviously its been changed at some point but when its ticking over it sounds a bit rattly to be fair and also when driving there is some times an intermittent judder which feels like a fuelling issue to me so as you say the pump could be on its way out...or is that something else?
on further inspection actually the vac pipe from the fpr had blown out so i put this back in but it still did it...not much good when trying to hold a drift lol
i think the fpr has been adjusted actually or something...the cap has been flicked off the top anyway revealing the screw...i know on some vauxhalls this can be done so unsure whether on fords its the same???
also think i need to get a boost guage too as there is not one fitted...this way i will now for sure what the crack is so to speak!
how do i determine if my actuator is a -31 or standard or is a -31 what they are as standard?
also is it worth gettin a boost controller...been looking at the gizzmo and the blitz ones...are they worth it or should i just get a decent setup on it?
cheers again!
as regards to the fuel pump well there is an old one in the boot so obviously its been changed at some point but when its ticking over it sounds a bit rattly to be fair and also when driving there is some times an intermittent judder which feels like a fuelling issue to me so as you say the pump could be on its way out...or is that something else?
on further inspection actually the vac pipe from the fpr had blown out so i put this back in but it still did it...not much good when trying to hold a drift lol
i think the fpr has been adjusted actually or something...the cap has been flicked off the top anyway revealing the screw...i know on some vauxhalls this can be done so unsure whether on fords its the same???
also think i need to get a boost guage too as there is not one fitted...this way i will now for sure what the crack is so to speak!
how do i determine if my actuator is a -31 or standard or is a -31 what they are as standard?
also is it worth gettin a boost controller...been looking at the gizzmo and the blitz ones...are they worth it or should i just get a decent setup on it?
cheers again!
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Thread Starter
I'm Finding My Feet Here Now
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 119
Likes: 0
From: west midlands
You need either Koni's at the back or standard at the front, I am currently trying to source some standard front shocks and standard springs and as there NLA from Ford, i'm left trying to get secondhand so far to no avail!
It could be down to the choice of springs mine rides a rough as a wrestler as someone has decided to fit some horrible Eibach springs, if the backs are the orignal dampers that came with the car then these are probably past there best. Personally I have been looking at the Avo Std height springs, Ahmed Bayjoo springs are also a good choice.
It's most likely a stage 1 tune, this is standard components anyway (Your injectors should be yellow) you may have a -31 actuator already which will come in handy (See below) Standard airbox doesen't mean anything, it's just some change for induction cones.
If stage one it will be running circa 15PSI, this should see around 280HP and more importantly alot more torque than standard.
For stage 3 you need either greens or preferably Siemens 55LB, 3 BAR map sensor, -31 actuator is fine don't need a -34. Don't really need an exhaust although it may have benefits.
Also at this stage the turbo is usually uprated to a T34 but it's not a unified standard of what needs to be changed.
Most importantly you MUST check the fuel pump and the cooling fan wiring and ideally rewire them if they haven't been already.
Basically the fuel pump can't get the power it needs under load due to the OE wiring degrading over the years and building up resistance, this can worst case scenario result in a meltdown!
The fan wiring was substandard to start with this is caused by the fans staying on for prolonged periods of time leading to melted fuses in the fusebox. Again a rewire is simple and DIY or you can buy looms premade for both of the above.
Martin
It could be down to the choice of springs mine rides a rough as a wrestler as someone has decided to fit some horrible Eibach springs, if the backs are the orignal dampers that came with the car then these are probably past there best. Personally I have been looking at the Avo Std height springs, Ahmed Bayjoo springs are also a good choice.
It's most likely a stage 1 tune, this is standard components anyway (Your injectors should be yellow) you may have a -31 actuator already which will come in handy (See below) Standard airbox doesen't mean anything, it's just some change for induction cones.
If stage one it will be running circa 15PSI, this should see around 280HP and more importantly alot more torque than standard.
For stage 3 you need either greens or preferably Siemens 55LB, 3 BAR map sensor, -31 actuator is fine don't need a -34. Don't really need an exhaust although it may have benefits.
Also at this stage the turbo is usually uprated to a T34 but it's not a unified standard of what needs to be changed.
Most importantly you MUST check the fuel pump and the cooling fan wiring and ideally rewire them if they haven't been already.
Basically the fuel pump can't get the power it needs under load due to the OE wiring degrading over the years and building up resistance, this can worst case scenario result in a meltdown!
The fan wiring was substandard to start with this is caused by the fans staying on for prolonged periods of time leading to melted fuses in the fusebox. Again a rewire is simple and DIY or you can buy looms premade for both of the above.
Martin
What mileage has the engine done?! Wouldn't even thin about stage 3 unless it's low mileage or had a rebuild at some point, and at the least had a group a head gasket fitted!!! Parts wise is pretty much as said althou turbo wise would depend what power u were aiming for!! If around the 300bhp mark and you wanted less lag a hybrid t3 would do fine, but then a t34 wouldgive you more scope for the future!!!
Thread Starter
I'm Finding My Feet Here Now
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 119
Likes: 0
From: west midlands
cheers for your advice people...what i am most bothered about though at the minuite is getting it looking right and driveing properly though so i need to know what you people think about bushings and suspension!!! recomendations and second hand parts you have for sale then let me know!
Thread Starter
I'm Finding My Feet Here Now
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 119
Likes: 0
From: west midlands
been looking through here and fuel pump and fan wireing seems a good idea so if anyone has a diagram or list of parts i need then that would be great...
also because i have got a spare pump how do i go about fitting a fuel swirl pot...is this good security and are they worth it? been hard at it looking through ebay and the fuel swirl pots are cheap so thought it looks good and if it serves it purpose then i will fit one! or what about twin pump setups...any advice?
also seen the water swirl pots and also oil separators/catch tanks...is it worth fitting one of these to?
also because i have got a spare pump how do i go about fitting a fuel swirl pot...is this good security and are they worth it? been hard at it looking through ebay and the fuel swirl pots are cheap so thought it looks good and if it serves it purpose then i will fit one! or what about twin pump setups...any advice?
also seen the water swirl pots and also oil separators/catch tanks...is it worth fitting one of these to?
You don't need to change the fuel system at all for what you want, the breather however does need uprating, various people sell them Bailey etc, water swirl pot can be good idea but again not essential.
As I say I personally like the sound of the Avo springs, the Ahmed Bayjoo are probably the most popular though, as said you need to make sure the HG has been uprated to if wanting to go stage 3.
As for the wiring side, you need sutiable wire man enough for the current draw, a SPST relay, a fuse holder and a 30A fuse.
Heres a diagram for fuel pump:
NB: Make sure the pump is earthed using a good earth I.E not the rusty spare wheel well for example, provided it's a good earth it's NOT essential to run back to battery as some say/do.
Martin
As I say I personally like the sound of the Avo springs, the Ahmed Bayjoo are probably the most popular though, as said you need to make sure the HG has been uprated to if wanting to go stage 3.
As for the wiring side, you need sutiable wire man enough for the current draw, a SPST relay, a fuse holder and a 30A fuse.
Heres a diagram for fuel pump:
NB: Make sure the pump is earthed using a good earth I.E not the rusty spare wheel well for example, provided it's a good earth it's NOT essential to run back to battery as some say/do.
Martin
Last edited by martysmartie; Oct 23, 2010 at 05:57 PM.
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But if you take the trouble to run the earth back to the battery, you will take all the existing 20+ year old connection points, every one of which builds up a high resistance, as was the original idea behind the rewire of the live, mental not doing so, esp when you have to lay the live down anyway.
You don't need the incorrectly labelled relay pictured, a std single pole switching relay is fine, doesn't need to be a changeover like the piccie shows, and incorrectly labels as a single pole double throw.
As for suspension a good road set up is Koni adjustables on hardest setting, with std ride height avo springs, I've used both ahmed and avo std ride height and prefer the avo, but I'm on coilys anyway now.
Before spending money on bushes etc I'd ensure the engine is healthy, and do a complete service regardless of what any service history shows, a belt costs around Ł60 or so for a new one, and is a lot cheaper than a head/valve rebuild, then the rewires, fuel filter change as well as oil/filter, plugs etc.
The kits from deflex/flow flex etc as a kit on ebay are ok and work fine, but I'd use the group a strut top bushings, as some poly are two piece and horrible, change the rear diff mount as this was seriously crap to start with let alone 20+ years old and saggy.
tabetha
You don't need the incorrectly labelled relay pictured, a std single pole switching relay is fine, doesn't need to be a changeover like the piccie shows, and incorrectly labels as a single pole double throw.
As for suspension a good road set up is Koni adjustables on hardest setting, with std ride height avo springs, I've used both ahmed and avo std ride height and prefer the avo, but I'm on coilys anyway now.
Before spending money on bushes etc I'd ensure the engine is healthy, and do a complete service regardless of what any service history shows, a belt costs around Ł60 or so for a new one, and is a lot cheaper than a head/valve rebuild, then the rewires, fuel filter change as well as oil/filter, plugs etc.
The kits from deflex/flow flex etc as a kit on ebay are ok and work fine, but I'd use the group a strut top bushings, as some poly are two piece and horrible, change the rear diff mount as this was seriously crap to start with let alone 20+ years old and saggy.
tabetha
Last edited by tabetha; Oct 23, 2010 at 07:12 PM.
Thread Starter
I'm Finding My Feet Here Now
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 119
Likes: 0
From: west midlands
yes service will be done...pretty sure mechanically the car is fine and i can do all this myself...wire pulling sometimes gets the better of me though...so i need some good 30a wire then or think i have seen some people use amp wireing kits on here for their fuel pumps! and what relay is it and where do i get it from? is it something that can be sourced of another ford and if so which colour relay is it in the fuse box! and also all then to do the rewire basically is run my two feeds from the battery to the back of the car and then use what wires are there to hook up to my new relay and fuse and to the fuel pump?...do any of you have any pictures of your installs etc and how and where you have mounted everything...also what about the fan rewire job?!
thanks again for everyones help!
thanks again for everyones help!
Thread Starter
I'm Finding My Feet Here Now
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 119
Likes: 0
From: west midlands
But if you take the trouble to run the earth back to the battery, you will take all the existing 20+ year old connection points, every one of which builds up a high resistance, as was the original idea behind the rewire of the live, mental not doing so, esp when you have to lay the live down anyway.
You don't need the incorrectly labelled relay pictured, a std single pole switching relay is fine, doesn't need to be a changeover like the piccie shows, and incorrectly labels as a single pole double throw.
As for suspension a good road set up is Koni adjustables on hardest setting, with std ride height avo springs, I've used both ahmed and avo std ride height and prefer the avo, but I'm on coilys anyway now.
Before spending money on bushes etc I'd ensure the engine is healthy, and do a complete service regardless of what any service history shows, a belt costs around Ł60 or so for a new one, and is a lot cheaper than a head/valve rebuild, then the rewires, fuel filter change as well as oil/filter, plugs etc.
The kits from deflex/flow flex etc as a kit on ebay are ok and work fine, but I'd use the group a strut top bushings, as some poly are two piece and horrible, change the rear diff mount as this was seriously crap to start with let alone 20+ years old and saggy.
tabetha
You don't need the incorrectly labelled relay pictured, a std single pole switching relay is fine, doesn't need to be a changeover like the piccie shows, and incorrectly labels as a single pole double throw.
As for suspension a good road set up is Koni adjustables on hardest setting, with std ride height avo springs, I've used both ahmed and avo std ride height and prefer the avo, but I'm on coilys anyway now.
Before spending money on bushes etc I'd ensure the engine is healthy, and do a complete service regardless of what any service history shows, a belt costs around Ł60 or so for a new one, and is a lot cheaper than a head/valve rebuild, then the rewires, fuel filter change as well as oil/filter, plugs etc.
The kits from deflex/flow flex etc as a kit on ebay are ok and work fine, but I'd use the group a strut top bushings, as some poly are two piece and horrible, change the rear diff mount as this was seriously crap to start with let alone 20+ years old and saggy.
tabetha
Thread Starter
I'm Finding My Feet Here Now
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 119
Likes: 0
From: west midlands
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