I want to renew the brake fluid on my xr3i but im unsure how to do it.

Ive heard that if you drain it completly you will ruin the master cylinder?

Help please

 

Start off furthest away from the master cylinder I.E rear nearside wheel.

You need some tube to fit over the nipple and a clean jam jar or something of this description, pour a little new fluid into this enough to cover end of hose when placed inside.

You then need to connect the tube to the nipple and loosen the brake nipple, you will need an assistant to pump the brake pedal, unless you have a one man bleed kit I.E Gunsons eezibleed in which case you have all the above and won't need an assistant.

Whilst the assistant is pumping the pedal the fluid will be expelled into the jam jar, make sure whilst this is happening you keep the master cylinder topped up with new fluid otherwise you will end up with air being induced.

Repeat until clean fluid is seen at which point the assistant should keep there foot on pedal whilst you tighten the nipple.

Repeat the above working your way furthest to closest to the master cylinder.

There can be exceptions in the case of ABS but as the I think the XR3 has mechanical ABS so I don't think this would apply but check if in doubt.

Martin

 

Cheers for that. Yes I think it is mechanical but I will double check. Thanks

 

Running dry won't kill the master cylinder.
I always start at nearest, always have done for 25+ years without problem, and find a vacuum bleeder works best, but gunsons ezzibleed works well too.
tabetha

 

Who said anything about it killing a master cylinder?

Starting furthest away is the official way that the likes of Haynes describe.

Martin

 

I have heard of starting the furthest away but also have heard of people doing it in any order. I will do it furthest away as the Haynes descibes

Thanks to both of you though

 

I was going to say about letting the master cylinder go dry and it being ruined
As to how do you change the master cylinder without it going dry? lol


Well I am hoping that's what needs to be done as I have to change mine

 

Bleeding the system can kill the Master Cylinder, as it gets to travel further than normally required, which can kill the rubbers on a scabby part of the bore if it's in poor condition after the normally swept area.
This is not the case if you use a vacuum bleeder of course as you don't need to push the pedal at all.
That's probably what was meant, just confused in translation

 

dont let it run dry if it has abs as getting the modulators bled is a pain.i would recommend removing them if you are changing the fluid,only takes about 2 hours and is well worth it.