I need something that shifts savage amounts of air. Having a hard time trying to find anything decent and a friend of mine had a kenlowe which wasn't much better than the pish ebay item. I don't give a damn about noise, i'd rather be able to hear the thing rotating anyway.

Cheers in advance troops

 

depends how much space you have to play with

 

you need to give a big more info mate

 

height of rad 12.5", maximum depth of cooling fan 2.5".

 

is 'savage amounts' a new SI unit? i don't recall Sir Isaac Newton sing it

 

Check out Spal's range, they've got all different sizes, suck thu/blow thru, slimline etc.

 

yup its between f*ckloads and notverymuch

 

http://www.spalautomotive.co.uk/acat...XIAL_FANS.html

 

LOL meet cliolord everyone

How you doing mate?

 

Doing alright Rich, the ST still serving you well?


haha, yeah savage is the new brutal. Just want something that will nearly suck the grill through the radiator when its operating

 

even pedestrians?

 

Absolutely ideal, cheers sunbeam!

 

Well, that would be a bonus surely?

 

Gareth.. Why are you needing THAT much cooling on an N/A car?
Not trying to have a dig but if it's getting that hot and staying that hot, is there an underlying problem that should be fixed?

 

Yeh not bad mate, been giving it a tarting up this week, got some piccies in the pictures section

 

I've changed the radiator and the cooling fan thats on there isn't reducing the temp its rising very slowly in traffic. Give it 10minutes of fan operation and its above 100*C. I shit you not, I could blow harder than the current fan, can't even hear it running and it only delivers a small breeze when its going. Not adequate!

 

Oooohhhh very nice Richard, very nice

 

You used to be able to get a special order kenlowe spiral(curbed vane) that flowed 9700 CFM, will most likely blow your rad to bits though.
tabetha

 

little tip - get a fan of a car with a/c, it will be more powerful than one without but a lot of modern ones will have a PWM converter built in so that they have variable speed but are not quite as straightforward to wire in as one without that just needs a relay.

 

I use a Ford Scorpio 2.9 air con fan on a V8 Sierra and had no trouble with cooling.

You need a big fuse and relay though as they draw a LOT of start up curent.

Mark

 

Proper fan fitment and fan ducting are vital too.

Always ensure the fan can pull air through the entire core, and ensure that only cool air can pas throught the radiator. Not air that has already passed through getting re-circulated.

And puller fans are more efficient than pushers. Spal are probably the best fans though

 

Cheers for the advice chaps, it's much appreciated.

Going by flow rates, what would you say a stock (say ford focus minus air con) cooling fan shift in m3/hour... I mean is 2250 m3/hour a decent flow rate? Is it worth running the fan that shifts 2600 m3/hour (bearing in mind thats over Ł200!)

The cooling fan is for a mk1 Clio Williams by the way and this after market pish fan im running now doesnt shift anyway near as much air as the stock fan or sound like its rotating at even close to the same rate as the stock fan did (current fan is a suction fan)

Just found a conversion chart, minute 1 CFM = 1.7 m3/hour. So thats approx 4500CFM on the Ł200 cooling fan

It sucks really as I'm not able to run a larger radiator to enable fitment of a larger fan. I had to downsize from the last alloy rad as it fouled the back plate for the air filter (as im running iTB's). It had a thicker core also, so this cooling fan just abit cut it at the time

 

Gareth, have you tried running the fan from a direct feed from the battery through a relay switched by the original wiring? In other words, is the original wiring that is there up to the job of flowing ebough current for your fan you have now? And you have checked the fan is spinning and is also mounted the correct way round? A fan that is mounted the wrong way round and wired the wrong way to compensate will not be as efficient as a fan that is fitted and wired the right way round.

 

Yes Rich, it's all fine.

I have come up with a back up plan although it requires abit of modifying to my old thicker core radiator and it also needs a pressure test and welding as it has a minor leak (light mist of water over radiator once up to temp and holding pressure). It seems as though it will work if I mount the cooling fan directly through the cores (horizontally) allowing me to remove the upper and lower fan mounts, giving an extra 1" of room if I drop the rad seats

 

Mounting the fan directly to the core will mean the fan only blows air through that small area the blades can pass air through.

Ideally the fan must duct itself over the entire core, as virtually all OE installs do. That is as important, if not more than the actual ability of the fan itself. And always ensure the radiator core is full sealed so that no air can pass around it.

 

I do agree stevie but there just is no room at all to position any form of ducting to gain more surface area. Surely if I raise the cooling fan slightly from the surface of the rad, it will start drawing in bay heat instead of pulling through the core?

 

... Failing that, it has to be the location of the inlet and outlet on the radiator itself. I can't see it being as efficient as the previous. The original rad still had the fan up tight against it but the outlet was on the opposite side which should yield further cooling surely?

Old rad in place with cooling fan...


New rad in place with cooling fan


Location of inlet & outlet...
New:


Old:

^ You can see where the rad was slightly too large and the top mounting had to be bent to make it fit. Epic fail

Would you agree?

 

To be honest gareth, I think your fucked. Scrap the shitbox or hand it over to ol' wattsy to sort it for you.

 

lol, but I like the blue shitbox!

 

Lol yea its 'adequate' aint it haha

 

Seems to go alright

Think i'll get the old radiator repaired or spec one up

 

trip to pro alloy!

 

Just taken a look at pro alloy's site and their in Suffolk. Ideally want something a bit more local. I'm based in the Bristol area, thanks anyway

 

http://www.arrowrad.co.uk/radiators.html

This any good?

 

Of course yes, in order for teh fan to draw air through the rad, it must be sealed tight against it.

Either the fan itself as you have it, or on a cowling/duct of some sort as per OE

I see your's is a dual pass core. Perhaps a big single pass might work better ?

And fan positioning can play a part. Mount one at any corner, and a smaller fat at the opposite corner.

Of course all car fans are quite big...but motorbike fans are quite small.

Ive a 16" puller on mine and a smaller 6" motorbike fan. That little fan really does make a difference ! Check egay for such fans

 

Cheers Stevie, will take alook at the bike fans too