Puma 1.7 what to look for
Rust around the rear wheel arches and the bottom of the door shuts near the rear wheel.
the engine is bomb proof unless subjected to either, overheating or oil abuse. Make sure there are no signs or overheating and the oil is 5-30 and full.
The gearbox are normally bomb proof.
Be sure to rev it all the way and make sure it pulls cleanly and fully. and every puma should of now had a cam belt. the pulleys are not dowelled so they are pretty easy to fuck up changing the cambelt.
the engine is bomb proof unless subjected to either, overheating or oil abuse. Make sure there are no signs or overheating and the oil is 5-30 and full.
The gearbox are normally bomb proof.
Be sure to rev it all the way and make sure it pulls cleanly and fully. and every puma should of now had a cam belt. the pulleys are not dowelled so they are pretty easy to fuck up changing the cambelt.
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Deffo rear rust on arches all due to those shit carpet arch liners,if the arches need doing get rid of those carpet things and fully underseal it instead.The old rust can go as far as the arch/sill joins and inner arches although in all honesty they seem to be pretty well looked after cars in general as they wernt that cheap new and IMHO still look the part now.
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Rust is the killer on these car.
Shit rear arch design means they rust from the inside out with very little you can do about it. They also rust the bottom of the driver's door and see if you can have a look at the rear chassis legs behind/underneath the spare wheel as we saw a few Puma's in shit condition around this area as well.
1.7 engine is the same family as the 1.25/1.4/1.6 Zetec S/SE Yamaha engine but with Variable Cam Timing. Oil changes of the correct grade are pretty important as a result. They also use platinum tipped spark plugs which are fairly pricey so check the previous owner(s) haven't been tight and used cheaper plugs.
I'm servicing the missus' Puma Millennium tomorrow, will have a better look for you if you wish. Fucking awesome driver's car though if you can get a good one!
Shit rear arch design means they rust from the inside out with very little you can do about it. They also rust the bottom of the driver's door and see if you can have a look at the rear chassis legs behind/underneath the spare wheel as we saw a few Puma's in shit condition around this area as well.
1.7 engine is the same family as the 1.25/1.4/1.6 Zetec S/SE Yamaha engine but with Variable Cam Timing. Oil changes of the correct grade are pretty important as a result. They also use platinum tipped spark plugs which are fairly pricey so check the previous owner(s) haven't been tight and used cheaper plugs.
I'm servicing the missus' Puma Millennium tomorrow, will have a better look for you if you wish. Fucking awesome driver's car though if you can get a good one!
Rust is the killer on these car.
Shit rear arch design means they rust from the inside out with very little you can do about it. They also rust the bottom of the driver's door and see if you can have a look at the rear chassis legs behind/underneath the spare wheel as we saw a few Puma's in shit condition around this area as well.
1.7 engine is the same family as the 1.25/1.4/1.6 Zetec S/SE Yamaha engine but with Variable Cam Timing. Oil changes of the correct grade are pretty important as a result. They also use platinum tipped spark plugs which are fairly pricey so check the previous owner(s) haven't been tight and used cheaper plugs.
I'm servicing the missus' Puma Millennium tomorrow, will have a better look for you if you wish. Fucking awesome driver's car though if you can get a good one!
Shit rear arch design means they rust from the inside out with very little you can do about it. They also rust the bottom of the driver's door and see if you can have a look at the rear chassis legs behind/underneath the spare wheel as we saw a few Puma's in shit condition around this area as well.
1.7 engine is the same family as the 1.25/1.4/1.6 Zetec S/SE Yamaha engine but with Variable Cam Timing. Oil changes of the correct grade are pretty important as a result. They also use platinum tipped spark plugs which are fairly pricey so check the previous owner(s) haven't been tight and used cheaper plugs.
I'm servicing the missus' Puma Millennium tomorrow, will have a better look for you if you wish. Fucking awesome driver's car though if you can get a good one!
Yeah i assumed they were a larger version of the zetec se engine, with the variable cam timing, all SE engines in my opinion are very good. I assume 5w30 oil is a must?
Are cam kits availible to take it to FRP spec? ie,150bhp? Am i correct in saying the racing puma uses a different inlet and exhaust manifold?
Yeah i assumed they were a larger version of the zetec se engine, with the variable cam timing, all SE engines in my opinion are very good. I assume 5w30 oil is a must?
Are cam kits availible to take it to FRP spec? ie,150bhp? Am i correct in saying the racing puma uses a different inlet and exhaust manifold?
Are cam kits availible to take it to FRP spec? ie,150bhp? Am i correct in saying the racing puma uses a different inlet and exhaust manifold?
No idea about what FRP parts are interchangeable with the boggo 1.7 - I know the inlet manifold is different and I'd presume the cams too but after that I've no idea - I'm into playing with Focus'........the Puma belongs to the missus (not that I'll ever complain about having to drive it round - even in bright fucking Yellow!)
5w30 oil is most definitely a must.
No idea about what FRP parts are interchangeable with the boggo 1.7 - I know the inlet manifold is different and I'd presume the cams too but after that I've no idea - I'm into playing with Focus'........the Puma belongs to the missus (not that I'll ever complain about having to drive it round - even in bright fucking Yellow!)
No idea about what FRP parts are interchangeable with the boggo 1.7 - I know the inlet manifold is different and I'd presume the cams too but after that I've no idea - I'm into playing with Focus'........the Puma belongs to the missus (not that I'll ever complain about having to drive it round - even in bright fucking Yellow!)
The traction control is pretty lame to be honest.
The FRP engine just has different inlet and outlet manifolds, cams, mapping and shot penned gears as it's not go the traction control set so high.
Make sure the cambelt's been changed every 80,000 miles or 5 years - whichever comes first on the 1.7.
"What do I look for when looking for a Puma guide" >here<
The FRP engine just has different inlet and outlet manifolds, cams, mapping and shot penned gears as it's not go the traction control set so high.
Make sure the cambelt's been changed every 80,000 miles or 5 years - whichever comes first on the 1.7.
"What do I look for when looking for a Puma guide" >here<
Last edited by Dal_; May 25, 2010 at 06:01 AM.
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