gonna build my engine back up an put it in at the weekend, wot oil do u lot recommend for runnin in an wot duration for as i will do a oil change an 50, 500, and 1k miles, engine is pretty standard, just ported head an cam,
complete rebuild, pistons/rings, main an bottom end shells, new lifters
cheers
liam

 

iam in the prosses of this and have put in mobil1 super syn 15/50 synthetic. but iam no expert lol

 

i dont mind spendin on expensive oil if needed as i always have done in the past but i been told its better to use a lesser quality oil while runnin in

 

iive been told that too but being a motor factors supplyer i get it on the cheap.

 

i dont have that luxury sadly lol

 

DO NOT USE SYNTHETIC OIL FOR RUNNING IN.... right rant over.

Your best to use good quality mineral oil, halfords shite will be good enough. Part or fully synth oil can actually stop your engine from bedding in properly (to some extent).

You will read hundreds of different things regard to running in.

All i can really say is:

Keep the oil that came out of the car (before rebuild) if its not too skanky. Do the first start up on this and run the car for several minutes (or until warm) at a bit over tick over (like 1200rpm) so long as you don't have a new cam.

Change the oil for new mineral, reason for using old oil is due to assembly lube etcetc contaminating nice fresh oil. You could do your start up on new oil, but you would still have to change after the first start (depends how flush your feeling i guess)

From now on people disagree with one another, but i would say another change at 300-500 miles and then another @ 1000-1100 (like you said).

People disagree on, bedding in rings, cams and bearings. So take what ever you read on the net with a pinch of salt, even the big names don't agree 100%.

Rob,

 

cheers rob ive got the old oil i drained out, ive always used 10/40 would that be ok to bed in too

 

i only decided on this as the temp of the engine is too extreme for mineral (when i give it some ) which wont take long . but will be changing it again around 200mile.

 

tbh im not a big expert on cvh oil but there is a thread going on at the moment about rs turbo oil, 10-40 seems to be approved by the many lol so it should be okay. Just to make clear im not telling to to put really horrid oil back in.... Just in my opinion no point in wasting new oil instantly.

Some people don't even change the oil after the first start, but i genuinely would as said to remove/flush all the assembly lube that you'll use (does its job on start up, but you don't particularly want it in there afterwards).

Also don't use any oil additives until run in.

Make sure you keep your oil pressure up and temperatures down,

Good luck mate

 

mate you shouldn't give it any, at least no where near full load for the first 500miles and then sparingly to 1000,

As far as im aware any big high spots should still be taken off with synth oil, but your probably run into problems (damage will already be done) with glazed bores, and a 'tight' engine exceeding the 1000 mile norm running in period.

Don't take this as 100% mate, just what i would do with my engine.

 

yh mate i understand oil only done bout 1k, is millers fully syn, cheers for all ya help m8

 

Cool cool any time,

 

I will be using Millers running in oil lol
For 500miles then flush and Millers fully synth 10w/50, and go easy for another 500 miles.
Assembly lube is designed to break down into your oil so no need to worry about changing after 1st start or 50miles etc..
Make sure you drive the car 'normaly' when running in, if you are to conservative the rings will not bed in as they rely on the compression to force them against the cylinder walls.

 

i'm just running mine in and it's got asda's finest £5 a gallon in it and swapped oil after 500 and am about to again at 1000 then at 1500 swap to the oil it will run on till it dies as that has proved us well in past and so far it's had a bar of boost through it till 6300 and once new oil and actuator are in it'll be upped till we see what it can take or when the standard cam runs out of legs

 

cheers karlos, was only gonna do the 50 mile change due to machining debris thats bonld to be in there somewhere ive cleand as mich as i can
u got yours built up yet?

 

I was thinking about this, so i did a bit of digging, from what i can work out running in oil is just really shite mineral, best suited to 'period' cars with bad tolerances and poor components/bearings etc. In my experience some assembly lubes are better than other at breaking up into your oil. Changing the oil after the first start won't hurt anything especially if your concerned over cleanliness when building., 50 miles with swarf will ruin any engine, any swarf at all wont do you good.

But again so many people differ on so many things,

Example puma racing recommend that you bed the rings in within the first 20miles and then go very easy for the next 500,

Other folks recommend driving the car very gently, regardless of rings and the load you put on the bottom end (bearings) is massive when you are running in.

Other guys say you should give it hell lol

do a google is funny how much they all contradict. Personally i would be dubious over using fully synthetic before its totally 'loose' and also about using running in oil for that long. There are some things they do agree on though, one of them is the first few miles are the most important.

But again different opinions etc.

Rob,

 

Hmmm shouldnt really have debris or swarf in there if the block had been cleaned properly but I supose it's best to be safe and not sorry!
I'm going to build the bottom end up tomorrow after work, then the head on friday, fit the steering rack when there is a nice day, and go from there.....
At the very latest it will be on the road 1st week of April as i'm off all that week so anything I have not done by then will be!!

 

Good to hear mate hoping for mine to be back around then too, but there is shit lots to do, haven't even taken the engine out yet lol....

Was like Christmas this morning,

Boost controller, Wide band lambda and random little bits came

 

its all been cleaned in a parts bath but u never kno wot is lurlkin, got a magnetic sump plug too, for wot it costs its gotta be worth it just to be on the safe side, ive give myself an april target too prob wont hit it tho lol

 

What EBC and WBO2 did you get?

 

Mine is going to have a good mineral put in it then its straight on the rollers for the first startup, 10 mins to warming up then a few hours of gentle running with a medium amount of boost introduced, then it will be the final full load map. All on the same mineral oil.

Once fully mapped on full boost which will prob be about 18psi I will be taking a bit of care with the driving of it for around 1k, then I will drop the oil and put a good semi synth in it.

Each to their own I suppost, the main thing is the way the engine has been built.

 

Yeah i've got one too... AKA cam collector! lol

Looks like we all might be running soon then!

 

millers running oil mate,

 

Will the Mineral oil not get cooked to fuck at full boost? It isnt designed for those sort of temps and you'll get carbon deposits around your engine?!

 

lol i was gonna try get it all done last week but that was just me bein over eager after i got loads of me bits lol seen sense now tho an ordered more lol, gonna take it to jano after too lol

 

Got Gizzmo ibc as i cant stretch to an apexi etc at the moment (but mappable boost gear by gear would be tre nice) but the Gizzmo has really good write ups.

and an AEM wide band controller with Bosch lambda, got the correct outputs for megasquirt so should work fine.

Ye would be good to get the car run in and set up by the 18th april (central day ) but that may be a bit ambitious seing as i want the underside to be painted too and its so fucking cold and wet

Rob,

 

Sweet! Yeah i've read good reviews about the Gizzmo too.
Well I should be running by then but probably not run in?!
Yeah this weather is a piss take, it feels like winter is never going to end!! So my kitchen rebuild starts tomorrow! lol

 

just take it easy with whatever oil you use as going slow for a bit wont hurt.
i say i will give it death after a bit just because i dont trust my self ( hell it probably wont even start when my hoses are connected this weekend )
iam sure we all give it some even on a new build its so hard not too.

 

Hi mate i saw a blue cab turbo in southend area lunch time, seemed to be going well if it was ?

 

not mine m8 mines in bits, theres 1 that looks very similar but without the quad lamps ive seen it a few times, its an f plate mine is an e

 

Haha, good stuff mate, last engine that got built in our house was done half on the kitchen table, then assembled in the conservatory on stand, then carted through the house, down the alley to the car lol but it was a stinking big v8.... dish washers are great too mate, just don't put alloy stuff in there lol.

If i get mine build in time im pretty sure i am going to have to go on incredibly long random drives to get it run in before the 18th.....

Rob

 

I ran asda stuff in mine for the first 500,took it easy for first 100 then started increasing rpm and using boost bit more,changed oil for fully synthetic at around 500 then straight on the rollers,changed again at 4000 and been running really well,gonna get next change at 8000

 

I had my last engine on an engine dyno for first start up/running in and mapping.......millers running in oil, ran in for 3hrs under load at 3k ish rpm iirc. Then boost gradually brought in and mapped in stages until full boost map.....all on the same oil! I wanted to change the oil for synthetic after the running in but was told not to bother! I'm not saying i know the scientific reasons why it was ok to do that but i know he maps his own engine in this way on the engine dyno so i could hardly argue lol, but as said literally everyone has an opinion on the subject of running in!
With my latest engine i haven't had the luxury of dyno'ing the engine so had to do it the hard way, for me 500 miles on mineral oil, changed for fresh mineral and done a few more. It's now ready for mapping on the road, but i will change for my usual mobil 1 for that. The engine has been revved to 5.5k and 1 bar of boost now.

 

This is what i'm using, most likely the same as you Dave!

 

looks like this is wot im gonna be using then karlos, how much was it?

 

Not that much mate, about £20 IIRC?

 

£25 from ebay.... http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Millers-Runnin...item5d256550c6 might find it cheaper else where, postage is always fairly high on things like this.