gunk in me hoses, cap popping off :( lol
Thread Starter
Part of the Furniture
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 162
Likes: 0
From: Birmingham
gunk in me hoses, cap popping off :( lol
hello guys and gals. had my turbo back on the road for about a month. problems have arisn....
the oil cap and dipstick pop off quite alot....
i took the boost hose off today and sum gunk is present....
turbo is a new unit, water is fine, oil is fine.
could this be down to breaathing system blocked?
engine has very poor performance sometimes too, could this be causing this??
any help woiuld be great thanks alot :0
the oil cap and dipstick pop off quite alot....
i took the boost hose off today and sum gunk is present....
turbo is a new unit, water is fine, oil is fine.
could this be down to breaathing system blocked?
engine has very poor performance sometimes too, could this be causing this??
any help woiuld be great thanks alot :0
I know some will say Crank Pressure, or Piston rings...
Simple Answer, Sometimes not.
Could be,
1.First i would remove all pipe's that lead to the Oil Breather system, and also remove the Oil Breather system filter. - If still poping off and gunk inside the hoses then take option 2
2. Second, get the engine Compression tested. This would then tell you if of course a ring is worn, turned or anything under them lines, also would tell you if any crank case Compression/engine compression is happening. should all read Green/8ish, if one is down, or more, then that could well be the problem. if all read the same then all is well.
3. Check for smoke, your turbo would not lead to anything, remember, turbo is a second part, it will smoke if fucked or shaft play.
Performance on Mfi is very common, so don't be fooled with that, they do sometimes play and sometimes do play up.
Of course check for smoke, On idel, under load, on over run.
Oh and if your running Std breather system on up rated engine/ more power than Std there is a problem, and you need a kit, Baily's are the best.
PS. Dont give the car too much stick if any until this problem has been resolved, you could well lead into more problems and if its a simple new rings, then thats not too bad, but if it needs more you'll be spending.
Simple Answer, Sometimes not.
Could be,
1.First i would remove all pipe's that lead to the Oil Breather system, and also remove the Oil Breather system filter. - If still poping off and gunk inside the hoses then take option 2
2. Second, get the engine Compression tested. This would then tell you if of course a ring is worn, turned or anything under them lines, also would tell you if any crank case Compression/engine compression is happening. should all read Green/8ish, if one is down, or more, then that could well be the problem. if all read the same then all is well.
3. Check for smoke, your turbo would not lead to anything, remember, turbo is a second part, it will smoke if fucked or shaft play.
Performance on Mfi is very common, so don't be fooled with that, they do sometimes play and sometimes do play up.
Of course check for smoke, On idel, under load, on over run.
Oh and if your running Std breather system on up rated engine/ more power than Std there is a problem, and you need a kit, Baily's are the best.
PS. Dont give the car too much stick if any until this problem has been resolved, you could well lead into more problems and if its a simple new rings, then thats not too bad, but if it needs more you'll be spending.
Last edited by RSTurboSI; Feb 17, 2010 at 08:50 PM.
addicted to boost
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 254
Likes: 0
From: lincolnshire
I know some will say Crank Pressure, or Piston rings...
Simple Answer, Sometimes not.
Could be,
1.First i would remove all pipe's that lead to the Oil Breather system, and also remove the Oil Breather system filter. - If still poping off and gunk inside the hoses then take option 2
2. Second, get the engine Compression tested. This would then tell you if of course a ring is worn, turned or anything under them lines, also would tell you if any crank case Compression/engine compression is happening. should all read Green/8ish, if one is down, or more, then that could well be the problem. if all read the same then all is well.
3. Check for smoke, your turbo would not lead to anything, remember, turbo is a second part, it will smoke if fucked or shaft play.
Performance on Mfi is very common, so don't be fooled with that, they do sometimes play and sometimes do play up.
Of course check for smoke, On idel, under load, on over run.
Oh and if your running Std breather system on up rated engine/ more power than Std there is a problem, and you need a kit, Baily's are the best.
PS. Dont give the car too much stick if any until this problem has been resolved, you could well lead into more problems and if its a simple new rings, then thats not too bad, but if it needs more you'll be spending.
Simple Answer, Sometimes not.
Could be,
1.First i would remove all pipe's that lead to the Oil Breather system, and also remove the Oil Breather system filter. - If still poping off and gunk inside the hoses then take option 2
2. Second, get the engine Compression tested. This would then tell you if of course a ring is worn, turned or anything under them lines, also would tell you if any crank case Compression/engine compression is happening. should all read Green/8ish, if one is down, or more, then that could well be the problem. if all read the same then all is well.
3. Check for smoke, your turbo would not lead to anything, remember, turbo is a second part, it will smoke if fucked or shaft play.
Performance on Mfi is very common, so don't be fooled with that, they do sometimes play and sometimes do play up.
Of course check for smoke, On idel, under load, on over run.
Oh and if your running Std breather system on up rated engine/ more power than Std there is a problem, and you need a kit, Baily's are the best.
PS. Dont give the car too much stick if any until this problem has been resolved, you could well lead into more problems and if its a simple new rings, then thats not too bad, but if it needs more you'll be spending.
Thread Starter
Part of the Furniture
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 162
Likes: 0
From: Birmingham
yeh cheers, im not even letting it boost until its sorted.
ive noticed the dumpvalve is sticking sometiimes, (bailey item that was on it when purchased) and sumtimes sticks open, could this cause condensation to get in pipes?? cheers
ive noticed the dumpvalve is sticking sometiimes, (bailey item that was on it when purchased) and sumtimes sticks open, could this cause condensation to get in pipes?? cheers
Well in effect all the Dumper is doing is releasing some pressure,
Check your Dumper on ebay, and performance parts website, try bailys as they should have the same as you have, some people make this mistake on getting single piston, you need a twin.
If you do the simple checks, that would tell you, go for the Free one first, only takes about 10min, clear the pipes, dont use water. Just blow, Dont suck
and use a cloth on the outside as oil is nasty when burnt.
Open up the Filter and go from there, see if thats clean or newish.
pipes run,
Rocker cover, pritty ovbs.
Down to te block - at the back, under the oil filter.
One runs from pully side of rocker cover to the Metering unit,
Now if all this is done, and you clealy know nothing is blocking it, then start the car and run it, just run it, give it warm up time then take it for a drive, dont need to boost it, just get the car going.
Dont need to check if the cap pops off, just check the Boost hoses.
Now, you can get compression testers for chips, so get one, they are handy on RS Turbos, fords/most old engines.
Do a compression test, check everything.
Normaly you'll know about the rings, It will Pure blue smoke if worn or turned ect on over run, and while on power.
Ok do this, Before anything, Oil caps on ok? Cars running ok? check your idle speed, should be about 3/4 into 1k. Yeah? Right go into the engine bay, engines running warm yeah? Nice and warm, then remove your oil cap, the car should stutter, idle bad then cut out.
Crank Pressure is deffo fine, if the car is running alot of crank pressure, then it would carry on running, Tip for you
so then you get get yourself a bailys and that should solve the problem,
Deppends what bost your running ect, just make sure everything is sound before you drive it hard, New piston rings and a small re-build will cost around 200,
New pistons are over 400+ Skim, balence, ect will come to an easy grand.
Check your Dumper on ebay, and performance parts website, try bailys as they should have the same as you have, some people make this mistake on getting single piston, you need a twin.
If you do the simple checks, that would tell you, go for the Free one first, only takes about 10min, clear the pipes, dont use water. Just blow, Dont suck
and use a cloth on the outside as oil is nasty when burnt. Open up the Filter and go from there, see if thats clean or newish.
pipes run,
Rocker cover, pritty ovbs.
Down to te block - at the back, under the oil filter.
One runs from pully side of rocker cover to the Metering unit,
Now if all this is done, and you clealy know nothing is blocking it, then start the car and run it, just run it, give it warm up time then take it for a drive, dont need to boost it, just get the car going.
Dont need to check if the cap pops off, just check the Boost hoses.
Now, you can get compression testers for chips, so get one, they are handy on RS Turbos, fords/most old engines.
Do a compression test, check everything.
Normaly you'll know about the rings, It will Pure blue smoke if worn or turned ect on over run, and while on power.
Ok do this, Before anything, Oil caps on ok? Cars running ok? check your idle speed, should be about 3/4 into 1k. Yeah? Right go into the engine bay, engines running warm yeah? Nice and warm, then remove your oil cap, the car should stutter, idle bad then cut out.
Crank Pressure is deffo fine, if the car is running alot of crank pressure, then it would carry on running, Tip for you
so then you get get yourself a bailys and that should solve the problem,
Deppends what bost your running ect, just make sure everything is sound before you drive it hard, New piston rings and a small re-build will cost around 200,
New pistons are over 400+ Skim, balence, ect will come to an easy grand.
Is the engine an old tired one or a recent rebuild?? My money would be on excess crankcase pressure, whereby yourrings are tired etc and you're getting blowby. Sounds like you're on std breather setup so i'd sort yourself out an uprated breather first off (as said by guy above), i had the same issues on the original engine in my rst which had done over 100k and running 16psi boost.......bailey breather kit and it stopped popping dipstick out/cap off. Obviously this is really masking a problem but it was a good short term fix till i could afford a proper rebuild.
Is the engine an old tired one or a recent rebuild?? My money would be on excess crankcase pressure, whereby yourrings are tired etc and you're getting blowby. Sounds like you're on std breather setup so i'd sort yourself out an uprated breather first off (as said by guy above), i had the same issues on the original engine in my rst which had done over 100k and running 16psi boost.......bailey breather kit and it stopped popping dipstick out/cap off. Obviously this is really masking a problem but it was a good short term fix till i could afford a proper rebuild.
Compression test will show something regards crank press.
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Compression testing won't tell you anything about crank case pressure mate, looking at the your sig picture you still have the original breather system?
how many miles has your engine done since rebuild?
Rob,
how many miles has your engine done since rebuild?
Rob,
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