been to motor factors today and picked up service bits for the rs, now i asked for a decent 15w 40 oil, the bloke said " thats no good for that you need 20w 50 for it, used it all the time when i was on the spanners servicing rs turbo's" so im confused.com now, what do i need?
spec is basicly standard engine thats been rebuilt about 10000 miles ago with a chip and front mount

cheers, neil

 

Any fully synth 3 ester oil, 10w/50 15w/50 or if your only running standard power then 10w/40 will be fine.

 

I've always used Mobil 1 Motorsport 15-50 in my RS's

 

thank's for the reply's, looks like the 20 50 is a mineral oil anyway so it's going back,

will change it for 15 50

 

now i always use fully synthetic castrol gtx 15/40...was using semi synth..there was quite a bit difference in engine noise between the two..was quite tappy on semi but is really quiet (for a cvh ha) on fully synth

 

will give it a try as mine's a bit tappy, cheers

 

Always mobil 1 in mine 15 50

 

Mobil 1 15w50 motorsport fully synthetic for me too.....had my rst 6 years and it's always been fed on that with no problems!

 

this is what he sold me

http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-841-silk...older-car.aspx

 

That isn't synthetic by the looks of it, you really want to be using a fully synthetic tbh, only trouble is mobil 1 for example is over Ł50 from the likes of halfords etc.....

 

anybody used unipart 10/40 fully synthetic. The shop by us is doing it for 16 quid

 

I use 20w50 valvoline racing oil, get it from euro's and its really good quality stuff.
wouldn't recommend it if your engines standard though.

 

i use mobil 1 15w50 also.

 

Mobil1 15w50

 

The GTX is far from synthetic, its just a mineral multigrade. And an over priced one at that.

10w-40 semi with regular changes is ok on a standard car, next step up is a 5w-40 or 10w-40 synthetic. if modified or used hard/track then synthetic 10w-50 or 15w-50.

Cheers

Guy

 

Good oil... But not for your car. May be if you had a mid 60's mg midget or something.

Cheers

Guy

 

good info thanks...its says fully synth on the tub so assumed its correct..i woudnt go as far as saying its overpriced though...Ł18 for 5 litres is very reasonable i think..although if its not f/s then thats why haha

 

Ł18 aint so bad, but when you can get a decent semi synthetic 10w-40 for Ł18-20...

Sadly despite what is written on the can it is 100% mineral base. Castrols synthetic range is the Castrol Edge.

Cheers

Guy

 

sorry to jack your thread but what oil shoul i put in my 16v rs2000?

CheeRS
Craig

 

what your opinion on millers high synthetic 10w40 an dthe cfs 10w60.
i'm running a zvh with a cossie 4wd turbo and around 20psi of boost.
i have an oil coller too on a thermostatic sandwich block.

high synthetic 10w40 is what i'm using at the moment (less than Ł20 a bottle from motorfactors with a little discount too)

 

mobil 1 15-50

 

what/where should i look on the label next time to ensure it is f/s?
also if its mineral based, what is the pros/cons of using this if you dont mind explaining? should i stay clear of the oil im currently using even tho it seems to be better than i have used in the past? thanks

 

swaped it today and got this

http://www.theoilman.co.uk/index.php...d&productId=71

 

i think its 5w 30

 

Craig,

What year is it? 5w-30 is the norm.

Cheers

Guy

 

High synthetic? Not familiar with that one. For Ł20 it wont be a real synthetic, they cost a lot more. The CFS 10w-40 is the real deal, and you can tell by the price http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-60217-mi...ngine-oil.aspx That one is ideal.

Cheers

Guy

 

Its hard to tell whats a real synthetic, price is usually a good guide.

Here is a bit about the pros of a good quality synthetic.

The basic benefits are as follows:

Extended oil drain periods
Better wear protection and therefore extended engine life
Most synthetics give better MPG
They flow better when cold and are more thermally stable when hot
Esters are surface-active meaning a thin layer of oil on the surfaces at all times

If you want to know the reasons why then please read on but, warning - Long Post!

Stable Basestocks

Synthetic oils are designed from pure, uniform synthetic basestocks, they contain no contaminants or unstable molecules which are prone to thermal and oxidative break down.
Because of their uniform molecular structure, synthetic lubricants operate with less internal and external friction than petroleum oils which have a non-uniform molecular structure.
The result is better heat control, and less heat means less stress to the lubricant.

Higher Percentage of Basestock

Synthetic oils contain a higher percentage of lubricant basestock than petroleum oils do.
This is because multi-viscosity oils need a great deal of pour point depressant and viscosity improvers to operate as a multigrade.
The basestocks actually do most of the lubricating. More basestocks mean a longer oil life.

Additives Used Up More Slowly

Petroleum basestocks are much more prone to oxidation than synthetic oils. Oxidation inhibitors are needed in greater quantities in petroleum oils as they are used up more quickly.
Synthetic oils do oxidize, but at a much slower rate therefore, oxidation inhibiting additives are used up more slowly.

Synthetic oils provide for better ring seal than petroleum oils do. This minimizes blow-by and reduces contamination by combustion by-products. As a result, corrosion inhibiting additives have less work to do and will last much longer in a synthetic oil.

Excellent Heat Tolerance

Synthetics are simply more tolerant to extreme heat than petroleum oils are. When heat builds up within an engine, petroleum oils quickly begin to burn off. They are more volatile. The lighter molecules within petroleum oils turn to gas and what's left are the large molecules that are harder to pump.

Synthetics have far more resistance as they are more thermally stable to begin with and can take higher temperatures for longer periods without losing viscosity.

Heat Reduction

One of the major factors affecting engine life is component wear and/or failure, which is often the result of high temperature operation. The uniformly smooth molecular structure of synthetic oils gives them a much lower coefficient friction (they slip more easily over one another causing less friction) than petroleum oils.
Less friction means less heat and heat is a major contributor to engine component wear and failure, synthetic oils significantly reduce these two detrimental effects.
Since each molecule in a synthetic oil is of uniform size, each is equally likely to touch a component surface at any given time, thus moving a certain amount of heat into the oil stream and away from the component. This makes synthetic oils far superior heat transfer agents than conventional petroleum oils.

Greater Film Strength

Petroleum motor oils have very low film strength in comparison to synthetics. The film strength of a lubricant refers to it's ability to maintain a film of lubricant between two objects when extreme pressure and heat are applied.
Synthetic oils will typically have a film strength of 5 to 10 times higher than petroleum oils of comparable viscosity.
Even though heavier weight oils typically have higher film strength than lighter weight oils, an sae 30 or 40 synthetic will typically have a higher film strength than an sae 50 or sae 60 petroleum oil.

A lighter grade synthetic can still maintain proper lubricity and reduce the chance of metal to metal contact. This means that you can use oils that provide far better fuel efficiency and cold weather protection without sacrificing engine protection under high temperature, high load conditions. Obviously, this is a big plus, because you can greatly reduce both cold temperature start-up wear and high temperature/high load engine wear using a low viscosity oil.

Engine Deposit Reduction

Petroleum oils tend to leave sludge, varnish and deposits behind after thermal and oxidative break down. They're better than they used to be, but it still occurs.
Deposit build-up leads to a significant reduction in engine performance and engine life as well as increasing the chance of costly repairs.
Synthetic oils have far superior thermal and oxidative stability and they leave engines virtually varnish, deposit and sludge-free.

Better Cold Temperature Fluidity

Synthetic oils do not contain the paraffins or other waxes which dramatically thicken petroleum oils during cold weather. As a result, they tend to flow much better during cold temperature starts and begin lubricating an engine almost immediately. This leads to significant engine wear reduction, and, therefore, longer engine life.

Improved Fuel Economy

Because of their uniform molecular structure, synthetic oils are tremendous friction reducers. Less friction leads to increased fuel economy and improved engine performance.
This means that more energy released from the combustion process can be transferred directly to the wheels due to the lower friction. Acceleration is more responsive and more powerful, using less fuel in the process.

In a petroleum oil, lighter molecules tend to boil off easily, leaving behind much heavier molecules which are difficult to pump. The engine loses more energy pumping these heavy molecules than if it were pumping lighter ones.

Since synthetic oils have more uniform molecules, fewer of these molecules tend to boil off and when they do, the molecules which are left are of the same size and pumpability is not affected.

Synthetics are better and in many ways, they are basically better by design as they are created by chemists in laboratories for a specific purpose.

Cheers

Guy

 

i think the 'high-synthetic' is just a semi synthetic one (XSS), hence less than Ł20 from my supplier.
just checked your webpage and it's been renamed from what i remebered, my mistake.

but the CFS is what i plan to use after the next oil change very shortly, just need to decide onthe grade i'll be using, been recommended a 10w60 from a burton chap a while back, but not entirely sure, car gets used, but no track days as of yet (maybe not this year to be honest either).

any advice welcome as i can get that fairly cheap too.
p.s. i'm not a believer in cheap oils, just whacked Ł35 of oil into a rubbish megane for an oil change today, but i do look around for cheaper suppliers.
good oil returns a cheaper to maintain engine and better fuel economy and so makes money to spend more on the engines lubricant.

 

CFS 10w-40 will be ideal, 10w-60 is just going to give it high blood pressure and less power as its too thick when hot.

Unless oil temps are much much higher then standard then no need to go thicker, just better.

Cheers

Guy

 

i don't tend to see more than 80 degrees roun dtown or 100 on a thrash as the oil cooler kicks in and does its job.
thanks for the advice and the write up is really imformative and you certainly know about oils.

sean

 

Fuchs Silkolene, i think i last used the pro s stuff forget the grade but have been very pleased with it, car ran well, tappet noise was reduced over the mobile one that was in it before and the oil pressure was good on it.

Rob,

 

I was told when ordering oil for mine that the older cvh engines are happier with x/50 as when they heat up the oil doesn't become too thin. Using x/30 or even x/40 (depending on the condition of the engine) can cause the oil pressure light to flicker on idle when the engines hot as the oil is too thin?

 

but a fully synthetic oil is more stable at higher temps than the mineral/semi stuff used back in the day.

 

I found this useful. http://www.carbibles.com/engineoil_bible.html

It answered my question of "If I put new, fully synthetic oil in my older engine, will the seals leak?" The short answer was no... Worth a read tho..

 

Forgot to add - it agrees with what xr2wishy said...

 

That is spot on for a modified RST, the oil temps will be far higher than for a standard car, the screaming T3 will make sure of that! lol
With a high mileage/old engine your only covering up bottom end wear at the end of the day...

 

Oil man.

its a 1992 rs2000 ive recently fitted new rings and bearings to it i have at the moment comma 5/30 in it just to run it in.

Craig.

 

Once run in either a decent synthetic 5w-30 or 5w-40. 5w-40 if its used hard.

Cheers

Guy

 

mate what do you recommend for my runaround?

its a mk4 escort with a 1097cc engine. In malta we get high temps in summer, so im guessing a 10w40 or 15w40?

looking forward to your reply mate!

 

Hi Ryan

Yes a 10w-40 will be fine in a runaround.

Cheers

Tim