saff 4wd to rwd how hard
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saffy cossie yes
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 830
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From: london
saff 4wd to rwd how hard
hi i have been looking for a nice rwd saff to put my money into .....i see loads of nice 4x4 ....how much would it cost to convert a 4x4 to rwd
regards matt
regards matt
I'm Finding My Feet Here Now
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 123
Likes: 1
From: co durham
hi mate ive just converted my to 2wd from 4x4 parts to change are
sump
oil pump and pick up pipe
gearbox
prop shaft
speedo cable
engine mount arms and rubber mounts
gearbox mount
exhaust down pipe
oil filter location changes
engine bed
and to do the job right inlet manifold and loom
the most expence is the 2wd t5 box £4-500
aint cheap
sump
oil pump and pick up pipe
gearbox
prop shaft
speedo cable
engine mount arms and rubber mounts
gearbox mount
exhaust down pipe
oil filter location changes
engine bed
and to do the job right inlet manifold and loom
the most expence is the 2wd t5 box £4-500
aint cheap
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saff is working!!!...atm
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From: fishburn sex shop...co.durham
i asked paul at ny spares a while ago and he gave me a proper list (dont have it) and there is a lot of work to do it right.......it's not as straight forword as people think....
Gary Krishna
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Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 4,029
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From: Rickmansworth, Hertfordshire.
I'm just in the middle of doing mine at the mo.
The way I'm doing mine is to use the existing crossmember and engine mounts and swap the sump, pickup pipe, gearbox, prop etc. You can retain the original front hubs, just remove the outer CV joints from the shafts, remove all the innards of the joint and refit into the hubs to keep the bearings under compression.
Before people start slagging me off saying 'that's the pikey cheapskates way of doing it blah blah blah', I'm doing it that way in case I do at some stage want to put it back to 4x4 therefore meaning less work. I was advised that doing it this way would be perfectly fine by a well respected in the industry tuner.
As for the rear beam and diff, I'll be leaving the stock 4x4 stuff on until the engine has been run in, then I'll fit a pukka beam and diff (not too sure which diff at the mo.
There is a modified gearbox mount cradle that you can get from Ford which another PF member advised me about that allows the 2wd stuff to bolt straight up to the 4x4 shell with no bother. It's not dear either, about £15+VAT so for that price it's not worth pissing about!!
The way I'm doing mine is to use the existing crossmember and engine mounts and swap the sump, pickup pipe, gearbox, prop etc. You can retain the original front hubs, just remove the outer CV joints from the shafts, remove all the innards of the joint and refit into the hubs to keep the bearings under compression.
Before people start slagging me off saying 'that's the pikey cheapskates way of doing it blah blah blah', I'm doing it that way in case I do at some stage want to put it back to 4x4 therefore meaning less work. I was advised that doing it this way would be perfectly fine by a well respected in the industry tuner.
As for the rear beam and diff, I'll be leaving the stock 4x4 stuff on until the engine has been run in, then I'll fit a pukka beam and diff (not too sure which diff at the mo.
There is a modified gearbox mount cradle that you can get from Ford which another PF member advised me about that allows the 2wd stuff to bolt straight up to the 4x4 shell with no bother. It's not dear either, about £15+VAT so for that price it's not worth pissing about!!
I'm just in the middle of doing mine at the mo.
The way I'm doing mine is to use the existing crossmember and engine mounts and swap the sump, pickup pipe, gearbox, prop etc. You can retain the original front hubs, just remove the outer CV joints from the shafts, remove all the innards of the joint and refit into the hubs to keep the bearings under compression.
Before people start slagging me off saying 'that's the pikey cheapskates way of doing it blah blah blah', I'm doing it that way in case I do at some stage want to put it back to 4x4 therefore meaning less work. I was advised that doing it this way would be perfectly fine by a well respected in the industry tuner.
As for the rear beam and diff, I'll be leaving the stock 4x4 stuff on until the engine has been run in, then I'll fit a pukka beam and diff (not too sure which diff at the mo.
There is a modified gearbox mount cradle that you can get from Ford which another PF member advised me about that allows the 2wd stuff to bolt straight up to the 4x4 shell with no bother. It's not dear either, about £15+VAT so for that price it's not worth pissing about!!
The way I'm doing mine is to use the existing crossmember and engine mounts and swap the sump, pickup pipe, gearbox, prop etc. You can retain the original front hubs, just remove the outer CV joints from the shafts, remove all the innards of the joint and refit into the hubs to keep the bearings under compression.
Before people start slagging me off saying 'that's the pikey cheapskates way of doing it blah blah blah', I'm doing it that way in case I do at some stage want to put it back to 4x4 therefore meaning less work. I was advised that doing it this way would be perfectly fine by a well respected in the industry tuner.
As for the rear beam and diff, I'll be leaving the stock 4x4 stuff on until the engine has been run in, then I'll fit a pukka beam and diff (not too sure which diff at the mo.
There is a modified gearbox mount cradle that you can get from Ford which another PF member advised me about that allows the 2wd stuff to bolt straight up to the 4x4 shell with no bother. It's not dear either, about £15+VAT so for that price it's not worth pissing about!!
A1 used to do it this way with NO probs
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