So been thinking this over. Oranoco has 248bhp on his S2. But he has little to no traction in 1st and 2nd....

now you can overcome this by better quality tyres and wider rims and all that but you can only go so far with that.... so how can you improve traction on a FWD without having to cut arches for silly thickness drag rims on the front of the car

Ideas?

 

raise the rear the car

 

There really isnt alot you can do. Learning the car is about the best you can do.

Wider wheels/tyres will give better traction, but will make it handle like shit. So its all a compromise.

 

Drastic nose-down does help.

I tried -40mm Front, Standard Rear. It gripped like fook, but looked really shite!!

 

does look shit i know but helps

 

Fitting a three piece driveshaft setup (Equal length outer shafts no torque steer) with an MTX75 is about the best you can do IMO

 

Ahh now that sounds promising... got any more info?

 

https://passionford.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=92213

 

 

There are FWD cars faster down the strip than any 2wd cossie on here and prob 4wd too, there's plenty to it (drag tyre's are needed tho) , DannyB is your man.

 

As it accelerates the front of the car lifts up losing traction under the wheels (hense lifting the back up slightly to limit this helps) One of the more efficient ways to stop it doing that is by trying some suspension mods. Stiffer springs and different damper rates and heights all have some effect. Then as above tyres will help with grip, then the way the drivetrain distributes the power must have some effect too There are ways it just costs time and money Iv'e spent hours and hours just playing, but dont have a HIGH POWER car

 

As Christian said a car set up for drags handles like a bag o shite. This seems to be the downfall of most of the RST's I have seen in that they are set up to look good ie low all round. That obviously doesnt help drags. I ran my FRST at the recent PF Brunters bash with coilovers on the back set as high as they go, 180lb springs, and bump/rebound set full on. Front tyres are 195/50-15 so when they are set at around 14 Psi you get tyre distortion and so get maximum rubber on the road. As the front arms are rose jointed i run the tracking set between 0 toeout to 1mm toeout.

I am currently waiting on a full coilover set from Leda with narrower front bodies so I can run a 205/50-15 soft compound road legal tyre. This will be corner weighted for two set-ups, drag and cornering and the positions marked on the bodies so I can switch between the two when required.

 

or just dont side step the clutch like oranoco


he loves the wheel spin tbh, he can drive for traction but hes very much into top speed


just learn to drive the car and get how it feels and see how ya like it


ya dont wana have a car thats wicked in a straight line as there aint many on our roads and tbh all ya gotta do is balance the accelerator



its not a on off switch

 

oh forgot steve has got a small zorst housing so his full power comes on earlier than most erst's


when he gets off his lazy arse and fits his .48 or .63 ( cant remember what one) he will have a bit less wheel spin as it will have a tuny bit more lag allowing the power to be stuck down

 

but then ya gotta deal with torque steer as steves is a fooker for that


but again he loves it so he never changed it

 

i have just got the turbo smart boost controller


this has different boost settings for different gears, hopefully this will work a bit better, also gone for a t34 so this shouldnt spin up quite as fast as me last turbo


all else fails back to throttle control

 

boost controller will make it come on boost more hard

as theres no creep, just bang


back to throtttle control i belive ( or 4wd conversion )

 

yeah but gonna run it at a more sensible amount then the 32psi it runs at the mo

that amount is not good in the small gears

 

really


good luck

whats the model of ios and how can it tell what gear ya in btw ????


i know my blitz can adjust boost at different speeds , but thats cause of the power meter attachement

 

i have no idea how it works, i just pay me money and then pick it up all fitted


i would rather not know, too many wires for me

 

 

Hmmm, so boost controlers might be an option then.

Ginge, I'm a speed in a straight line man Dont have the balls to late break for corners

 

My nova takes 270bhp in second gear without any wheelspin, thats mainly down to tyre choice, ATB diff and ensible suspension setup really.

Tyres are the key thing, get some inters on there.

 

PS, to see just how well my car gets traction, watch the video link in my signature, you can see the front lifting slightly but not breaking traction in 2nd gear as the power is applied and no wheelspin at all.

 

hopefully in the next few months i will have my suspension fully sorted so thats will be out the way, down sizing wheels to a ste of 16" if i can squeeze them over me brakes


only thing is i think im very limited to tyre choice with a 16" wheel


does a firm make road legal slicks for 205 / 40 / 16

 

oops double post

 

o ris it 195 / 45 / 16 that i want

 

chip ypou saying your car has 270bhp in second gear


stu boost controllers are ok if there a programable one like what i got, a normal boost controller that holds until ya reach full boost aint gonna help as thats gonna allow ya to reach full boost sooner


learn to use the throttle

 

Yes my car has 270bhp in every gear except the first one when i run it at the pod.

 

gus what brakes ya got, ya can fit anything upto 315mm discs under standard wheels if there done correctly, infact 330's can be done if ya brave

 

gus - i looked into the e boost, and although they advertise diff boost in each gear - i dont think u can adjust it.

 

i know the appexi can but thats not ment to be good at 2bar


blitz id3 range is a nice idea but that works off the speed sender and is for different speeds not gears ,i got that one ( still in the box too , i really need to pull me finger out )

 

mine are 335mm discs
so will need to go down a size or two


could i just change the disc or would it be the bells and brackets too

 

what about moving the engine? over the wheels or even leaning the engine back anf forth

 

i'm using the the apexi avcr to control boost, it has a feature to run less/more boost in each gear.

i've dropped the boost down in 1st and slightly in 2nd so now there is no wheel spin atall in the dry.

my mate has a 300brake 200 which used to be crazy in the dry, arse end never wanted to stay planted. he was using an apexi avcr and didnt know about the start duty setting for each gear, i went out with him and setup his 1st and 2nd gear dutys and now he can floor it in 1st & 2nd with the arse end staying planted.

the apexi can also run up to about 3bar of boost

 

the apexi aint very good after 2 bar, trust me on that


not on fords anyway

 

Traction is a serious problem in my car.....

Last time I went to the Pod, 1st and 2nd were appalling no matter what I did, and 3rd needed sensible application of the throttle. Even setting off in 2nd didn't make any diference to my 60ft time.

I've a set of coilovers on the horizon, I'm hoping they will sort a tiny bit of the problem. At the moment I have a set of the baldest tyres ever on as the car is taking a winter break, but if it rains it will spin in sixth on the motorway The camber is also is bit odd on my front wheels, which I'm sure adds to my problem.

Think I'm going to try setting off in bottom boost setting then when at about 5000rpm in 2nd flicking to the top position, in an effort to improve my 60ft times.

I really want to go out in a car with a Quaife ATB LSD to see if they make much difference

 

how does the quaife make a difference ????


are the ratios taller ???

 

No its the same box, but an LSD that is put on it....

From what I've heard they improve traction (and can pull you through corners?) but in a straight line they like to "pull" side to side more. Well my car has more than enough torque steer already, so I don't want any more side to side action