I only use my 2.1 ERST in the summer.. under normal driving the car keeps perfect temp.. BUT once it has afew good thrashes it does get very hot.. My intercooler pretty much blocks the rad and im sure this aint helping things

Could i run it will no stat to try keep temps down???

 

I wouldn't.

What rad do you have?

 

Removing the stat will not reduce the "operating temp"

All it will do is increase the time it takes for the engine to reach operating temp, theroetically increasing engine wear.

Have you looked into fitting an oil cooler?

 

I have put my housing back on with stat in.. I have a GRS rad and intercooler..

Oil cooler will be next job i think

 

what about a turbo rad to cool the water.......removing the thermostat can upset the flow and cause hotspots in the head.........

 

yeah true and also taking longer too cool down after getting hot because water goes faster through the rad giving less time for the air to cool it down

 

Turbo cooler and an oil cooler would the 1st coarse of action I'd take.Plus 2 fans fitted to the rad,if you dont already.Regards,Micky

 

running 2 kenlowes now

 

Its not a bad thing to have the engine running hot! the engine would be much more thermally effiecient at higher temps than running cooler.

 

Yes, true, up to the point that the head gasket blows or the head warps due to the heat.

The CVH was designed to run slightly hotter, but by the same token, it wasn't designed with the prospect of still having the original radiator in it (not in this case I know) 20 years later and with a full width Intercooler covering it.

I fly the flag for GRS Intercoolers, but I'm not convinced that an Alloy rad is the right descision.

 

i run the alloy rad and alloy FMIC and i must admit it is far better than a recored or new non alloy radiator as the temps are so much lower than any previous s1 i have owned. this may be because the actual sie of the alloy rad is much bigger than the siz eof the standard rad.

 

You won't convince alot of people on here that an alloy rad is as good or better than a standard rad mate......although i have found the same as you after having a brand new recored standard rad, an alloy rad performed better. It's only on track imo that there should be any temp issues and that is the ultimate test, an airgap between rad and intercooler also helped lower my temps as did bonnet raisers to get the heat out of the engine bay as quickly as possible.

 

On ,my racing turbo,i never run a stat,chuck on a swirl pot,also i have the water pump impellar cut off,and run a ewp instead,no probs...

 

Pic's????Regards,Micky

 

No stat and the coolant runs round so fast that it doesn't cool properly when used hard.
Been there done it, watched the coolant fountain!

Will run cooler as a temporary measure if not used hard though

 

Is this in addition to or in place of the factory fitted one?

 

you can run without a stat, but should use a restictor of some sort. One way is to drill a few 1/8in / 3mm holes in the stat. I'd only do this for track use though.

Rick.

 

Sorry Rick, I disagree. How will your restrictor increase flow for summer or stationary traffic whilst decreasing it for winter and high speed running?

 

Hi mate, in my country it gets incredibly hot in summer... 35 to 40 degrees and climate is VERY humid. I had the same problem like you. Got a new rad from Pace (not that I want to recommend Pace as I'm sure there are others that work as much as good or maybe better) and I solved the problem. Unless stuck in traffic temp keep well below the middle line and in winter just above the bottom line. If in traffic, still below the top line (in summer) but once cruise driving again it goes down. And I haven't got a large intercooler yet, just a custom made double size one. I also raised the bonnet to help the flow of air. But the key to my solution was the new rad

Btw, I used to run without stat... I DO NOT recommend it. Get a lower temp one but not without it at all

 

I wonder what actual temps you guys are running and how accurate the Ford gauge is? Now I am running a decent sensor with a digital read-out, I'm finding it more concerning.

I know from cars that I have mapped on the dyno, not necessarily RST's. I have seen OEM temp gauges in the 'safe' zone, but the digital readout from the ECU (when available) over 100°C.

Now I have a thicker, more dense Intercooler, mine is hotter than I would like. It's between 88-92° when cruising around, not really ragged the shit out of it yet to see how high it climbs, but seems OK'ish. I'd like to take 10° off it really.

 

When i cruise normally and outside tempeature is about 15c there is no problems and megasquirt is telling there is something like 90c temp and ford gauge in little over half way.
But.. if there is over 20c outside ford gauge showing nearly red and fans are operating nearly whole time and megasquirt shows "off the scale" over 102c.
2-3 fast laps in track and needle is in bottom of red.

So.. what can i say, cooling power just isnt enough with large ic which is commonly known thing.
I cant say i am 100% sure about megasquirt CLT sensor calibrating, but i am pretty sure when ford gauge is in the bottom of red car runs too hot.
Autospecialists do have that "turbo cooler" , definetely after turbo. Anyone used?

 

i agree with fitting digital,so much more accurate than a needle dial,never put tap water in your coolant system .To stat with,use battery top up water de-ionised,all them water wetters or radtec cool boost is crap,no stat, large swirl pot,impeller on water pump cut off, run electric water pump,and most important of all de-ionised minerali,capiche..i dont know if i can post pics as i am not a gold member,and have no intention either...

 

Don't have to be a gold memeber to post pics mate!

 

I ran a huge pace ally rad and chargecooler on mine and ran very cool indeed,