Easy Mods?
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The usual list of mods people do are as follows, in no particular order.
Air filter.
Exhaust, but what rst hasn't got a stainless system on now?
-31 actuator, its stronger than the standard rst item which helps it hold more boost.
Bigger intercooler, full front mount is better rather than a double capacity which aparently arem't much better than the standard item.
cam upgrade, too many options to list. but for round town driving and acceleration purposes i was told the standard one in good condition was the best. most dont kick in to around 4000rpm
uprated turbo, either stage 1, 2, or 3. all have different characteristics and it depends on what you want.
head porting and polishing, again it depends on what you want it for.
if you've done all this you'll be looking at a nice rst but then you'll have to uprate the clutch, it wont last more than a few months in my experience, thats at 1bar boost.
Then you'll have to look into brake upgrades, then suspension, then handling. it just keeps going on and on.
they're definatly NOT cost effective cars, full stop. They're not even "fast" anymore, with what you can buy now for 3k off a forecourt it'd cost you 6 to build an rst to the same spec.
just my opinion. Mine owes me over 10 times what i paid for the car.
If any of the informtaion above is wrong, bite me, thats my opinion and how i understand it to be.
Air filter.
Exhaust, but what rst hasn't got a stainless system on now?
-31 actuator, its stronger than the standard rst item which helps it hold more boost.
Bigger intercooler, full front mount is better rather than a double capacity which aparently arem't much better than the standard item.
cam upgrade, too many options to list. but for round town driving and acceleration purposes i was told the standard one in good condition was the best. most dont kick in to around 4000rpm
uprated turbo, either stage 1, 2, or 3. all have different characteristics and it depends on what you want.
head porting and polishing, again it depends on what you want it for.
if you've done all this you'll be looking at a nice rst but then you'll have to uprate the clutch, it wont last more than a few months in my experience, thats at 1bar boost.
Then you'll have to look into brake upgrades, then suspension, then handling. it just keeps going on and on.
they're definatly NOT cost effective cars, full stop. They're not even "fast" anymore, with what you can buy now for 3k off a forecourt it'd cost you 6 to build an rst to the same spec.
just my opinion. Mine owes me over 10 times what i paid for the car.
If any of the informtaion above is wrong, bite me, thats my opinion and how i understand it to be.
Thanks alot for the info mate, very helpful 
Can i ask about this boost lark lol as this is my first proper turbo'd motor...
If i was to chip ECU and get remap etc and change PSI what difference does all that make?
Do i boost sooner? Or do i get a bigger boost when i do?
I know a huge intercooler will give me alot of lag.
Can i ask about this boost lark lol as this is my first proper turbo'd motor...
If i was to chip ECU and get remap etc and change PSI what difference does all that make?
Do i boost sooner? Or do i get a bigger boost when i do?
I know a huge intercooler will give me alot of lag.
more boost when you do. if you whack the boost up with a chip and bleed valve though it wont last a week! 3 days if your lucky. it will need to be setup by a pro.
as i said they're not cost effective. nothing at all on them is
as i said they're not cost effective. nothing at all on them is
yeah i knew that it would need a setup, so say i was to get a nice intercooler put on it and an armen banjo chip? then take it to a rolling road what would i expect to see form it?
mines at around 170hp and it sees off the chancers
but if you got a filter, zorst, bleed valve and chip and got it setup i reckon you could have some fun with that. its not going set the tarmac on fire, but you know
plenty of scope for the future also.
but if you got a filter, zorst, bleed valve and chip and got it setup i reckon you could have some fun with that. its not going set the tarmac on fire, but you know
plenty of scope for the future also.
yeah the mods its got already is straight through stainless system, k&n, cossie actuator and oil pressure regulator and stage 3 saph turbo..
I can get an armen banjo chip off a mate who had it on his S2 for £80 and im not sure on the prices for an intercooler and a bleed valve..
I can get an armen banjo chip off a mate who had it on his S2 for £80 and im not sure on the prices for an intercooler and a bleed valve..
your already there then
you probably dont really need a bigger intercooler yet, but it is the next step after the chip.
i thought it was pretty much stock.
get it setup and you'll be alright with that.
bleed valves are a tenner if that. ebay will have them . two or three way it doesn't matter, let the tuner set it though. and once its set, dont touch it!
dont whack the boost up cos you'll throw it all out and probably melt stuff.
you probably dont really need a bigger intercooler yet, but it is the next step after the chip.i thought it was pretty much stock.
get it setup and you'll be alright with that. bleed valves are a tenner if that. ebay will have them . two or three way it doesn't matter, let the tuner set it though. and once its set, dont touch it!
dont whack the boost up cos you'll throw it all out and probably melt stuff.
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iTrader: (3)
Joined: Oct 2007
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From: Farnborough, Hampshire
when was the last time your engine was rebuilt? if its been a while the best thing to do before mods is strip it down and rebuild it!
And buy AA brake down cover!
And buy AA brake down cover!
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iTrader: (3)
Joined: Oct 2007
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From: Farnborough, Hampshire
Yeah well like i say im no mechanic, i am however in the process of renting a garage and buying an m.o.t fail nissan micra or something like that... that way if i break it, i break it 
The RS is off the road for 3 months and im currently taking the seats/carpet/interior out to treat any rust underneath... however rusted stuck bolts are proving to be a nightmare!
The RS is off the road for 3 months and im currently taking the seats/carpet/interior out to treat any rust underneath... however rusted stuck bolts are proving to be a nightmare!
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iTrader: (3)
Joined: Oct 2007
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From: Farnborough, Hampshire
what are the bolts for? use loads of WD-40 if that fails then heat! if you heat it up the surounding area (not the bolt) it should come out. most exhaust/ tyre fitting companys will be able to do this for u for few beers.
good luck
good luck
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iTrader: (3)
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,174
Likes: 1
From: Farnborough, Hampshire
umm if its the ones that bolt the seat to the car then might not be the best idea... you will need to make it glow red and that will set your carpet on fire
id say if you put a 31act raise the boost to 16-18 psi with a stainless exhaust, and keep the standard air filter box, an drill it with a kn pannel filter you would be well on your way
haha.. well on my way to what though, because i honestly have no idea at all..
you will have to bare with me lol, im not very clued up.. ask me anything about a corsa though
you will have to bare with me lol, im not very clued up.. ask me anything about a corsa though
mine is similar spec chipped, huge fmic,-31,scorpion stainless, k and n and abouty 8psi atm. i have a switch in line with the amal so when the amal is functioning i have 15psi. i run the lower boost atm as my fuelling needs setting up. even with lower boost its quick enough to be fun. you cant map mfi, but you can get decent power. the trade off is you can only set up the idle and on boost fuelling, theres no happy medium. ie your setup for say, 15psi. your fuel consumtion will be poor at best as on boost richens it up accross the range. still, on boost is were meltdowns occur due to not getting enough fuel if not setup. DO NOT be tempted to up the boost and drive without setup. although tempting, it will end in tears. 170hp+ is in easy reach. if your paranoid its lean, unplug the amal connector and it knocks the boost right down. bleed valves are ok but setting up on the actuator is more reliable, removes temptation/some wanker fiddling when your backs turned.
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