advice rst gearbox
what can u do to get a rst box 2 hold nearly 300hp down without blowing up every week. im gona get mine rebuilt as its an s2 escort lsd box with s1 internals, is a fresh rebuild gona be enough for it to last? also is there anything else? Any info would be good cheers.
Last edited by aajbarker; May 12, 2009 at 07:56 PM.
sell it and put a mtx in it.
i've just bought a mk6 escort zetec box. its got my lsd in it, but i was told the bearing are bigger than the old cvh boxes.
3 mates have them, running various specs. the best is circa 220hp, he's never had a prob. been in for about 8 months now and its still as fresh as the day it was fitted.
3 mates have them, running various specs. the best is circa 220hp, he's never had a prob. been in for about 8 months now and its still as fresh as the day it was fitted.
If it was just a matter of 'fitting an mtx' i think a lot of people would do it, but from what i've been told/read it ain't quite as simple as that, not to a cvh anyway
try www.gearboxman.co.uk call them and see what they can do
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correct i was gonna do this but gonna go for a cts box. i would suggest a competition transmission services stg 2+ box you get a bomb proof box with atb diff and a choice of gearing
try www.gearboxman.co.uk call them and see what they can do
try www.gearboxman.co.uk call them and see what they can do
so not to bad.i did have an xr3i box that lasted 6 months once
really im suprised, what goes first on the cts box i seem to remember certain people having problems with 5th
on another note i saw an artical in performance/fast ford about freezing gear set and wondered about peening+freezing the gear set and even freezing the steel caged bearings
would be intrested in people current view on the boxes to use as mine is hanging lol
I had the same problem kept blowing up gearboxes in the rally car. I had one built custom its got fiesta ST150 gears, and quaife ATB diff, all somehow fitted into the standard ib5 housing and havnt had a fault since!
really im suprised, what goes first on the cts box i seem to remember certain people having problems with 5th
on another note i saw an artical in performance/fast ford about freezing gear set and wondered about peening+freezing the gear set and even freezing the steel caged bearings
would be intrested in people current view on the boxes to use as mine is hanging lol
on another note i saw an artical in performance/fast ford about freezing gear set and wondered about peening+freezing the gear set and even freezing the steel caged bearings
would be intrested in people current view on the boxes to use as mine is hanging lol
1st time it went I lost 5th gear as that is where they all go as there is less oil getting to it. Then again I lost 5th again and last time just before I broke it I lost all gears that the was the nail the coffin and broke me cabrio as the gear box went again
got it rebuilt and it has just sat in my s2 waiting for it new engine i did have the offer of my bros ib5 box which is better and bigger gears over my old bc box should of pull he’s arm off but I don’t think my box will hold up very long in my car
my bros ib5 stage 2 + lasted about 3 years iirc in hes zvh my old engine lol it blow up once he had run in he’s zetec and went for an mtx much easier in an mk5 escort lolLast edited by Šhatter Box; May 12, 2009 at 10:55 PM.
i used the the bellhousing from a 92 escort it had bigger input,mainshaft,and right hand difff bearing,then got a mint (non machined)mainshaft(rs turbo)and had the ib5 mainshaft bearing pressed on to it and used std rst gears,lsd and std size left hand diff bearing-was holding 26psi of boost 272lbft fine.
whats so hard about fitting them????????? the mounts should be easy the shafts are easy the hydraulic clutch is easy and so is the gear linkage
only when you think out the box and are not affraid to cut into your car thats the problem most rs owners are terrified to rip engine and box out then get the angle grinde out and start cutting chunks out till it fits but anyone with the balls it's a simple enough job and at around 600 for the focus rs box in your car not that dear too compared to the cts stuff
Thought the mtx/IB5 gearboxes couldnt handle much over 200bhp.Gearboxman CTS stage2+ is Ł1200 with shot peened gears with quaife ATB.-a nice box,which i was looking at,although would like a stronger box for cheaper if possible,would prefer a short top end,not bothered about 130-140mph+
jamie
jamie
Thought the mtx/IB5 gearboxes couldnt handle much over 200bhp.Gearboxman CTS stage2+ is Ł1200 with shot peened gears with quaife ATB.-a nice box,which i was looking at,although would like a stronger box for cheaper if possible,would prefer a short top end,not bothered about 130-140mph+
jamie
jamie
This is the trouble i'm coming up with now if I want anymore power 
i've got the fiesta st ib5 with an s2 diff fitted (big bearing kit) and I think i'm on the edge now of whay it'll do power wise!
If I put any more torque through this box it's gonna go bye bye's me thinks 
And d you have any idea how much faffing around it is to fit an mtx75 to a duratec? thank god for the 2.0 mondeo mk3's!!
i've got the fiesta st ib5 with an s2 diff fitted (big bearing kit) and I think i'm on the edge now of whay it'll do power wise!
And d you have any idea how much faffing around it is to fit an mtx75 to a duratec? thank god for the 2.0 mondeo mk3's!!
shot peening does not add extra strenght , it just takes out any slight weakness in the metal so makes it around 25/30% more durable (not stronger) as cts use the metal improvement company which is around the corner from house. the only way to get strenght is go straight cut with a quaife gearkit but these are only rated to 275 bhp but can do more but it at your own risk , i think the getrag st170 or mtx is the best option as the gears are alot bigger and they run 2 shafts so stress is spread across instead of the bc which is 1 long shaft thats why they fail
'From what i've read' is what i said........i haven't fitted one myself, and it sounds as though you haven't actually fitted one in a mk4 escort with a cvh?? Ask christian and beccy whether it's an 'easy' job, cos to be honest if he found it difficult with all the equipent etc he has access to i'd imagine the average joe in his garage may struggle a little. Just because something is do-able doesn't make it an easy job!
'From what i've read' is what i said........i haven't fitted one myself, and it sounds as though you haven't actually fitted one in a mk4 escort with a cvh?? Ask christian and beccy whether it's an 'easy' job, cos to be honest if he found it difficult with all the equipent etc he has access to i'd imagine the average joe in his garage may struggle a little. Just because something is do-able doesn't make it an easy job!
A BC/IB5 Quaife Straight cut gear set is on ebay atm if anyone if after one. 
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/FORD-ESCORT-RS...18159004r14255
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/FORD-ESCORT-RS...18159004r14255
Every part of this latest build is my own work, I've struggled and learnt anything I didn't know how to do. OK, I have access to APT's facilities, but within APT I'm the guy that answers the phone and takes bookings etc. I'm not a qualified mechanic and if I had just wanted to nail this together, yes, it would have been done months ago.
I take it you've not really looked at my project thread and seen what I done to the car over the last 18 months? I still say, after all that, even if you take the clutch fitment issue's out (which was the only serious issue caused by using the early MTX), the MTX conversion was one of the hardest things I have done.
You're not the only one that has suggested that the MTX conversion is basically an easy job. I can only assume that those that say it is easy don't work to my standard.

300+bhp and substandard work just don't belong in the same sentence, in my book.
What the fuck are you talking about? Not a hands-on kind of guy? I take great offense at that.
Every part of this latest build is my own work, I've struggled and learnt anything I didn't know how to do. OK, I have access to APT's facilities, but within APT I'm the guy that answers the phone and takes bookings etc. I'm not a qualified mechanic and if I had just wanted to nail this together, yes, it would have been done months ago.
I take it you've not really looked at my project thread and seen what I done to the car over the last 18 months? I still say, after all that, even if you take the clutch fitment issue's out (which was the only serious issue caused by using the early MTX), the MTX conversion was one of the hardest things I have done.
You're not the only one that has suggested that the MTX conversion is basically an easy job. I can only assume that those that say it is easy don't work to my standard.
300+bhp and substandard work just don't belong in the same sentence, in my book.
Every part of this latest build is my own work, I've struggled and learnt anything I didn't know how to do. OK, I have access to APT's facilities, but within APT I'm the guy that answers the phone and takes bookings etc. I'm not a qualified mechanic and if I had just wanted to nail this together, yes, it would have been done months ago.
I take it you've not really looked at my project thread and seen what I done to the car over the last 18 months? I still say, after all that, even if you take the clutch fitment issue's out (which was the only serious issue caused by using the early MTX), the MTX conversion was one of the hardest things I have done.
You're not the only one that has suggested that the MTX conversion is basically an easy job. I can only assume that those that say it is easy don't work to my standard.

300+bhp and substandard work just don't belong in the same sentence, in my book.
Cool, an afternoons work then.
When you've done yours, maybe you can do everyone elses for Ł150 then?
The mounts are hardly something that you can just knock up from random shit lying around and if you don't want to run S1 suspension. what then? That's why my mounts too alot more work. They'd work with STANDARD suspension if you wanted to.
The shifter conumdrum is an interesting one too. The rod change shifter almost bolts on. I had to remake the stabiliser bar and re-shape the floorpan, god only knows what would have been needed if the engine wasn't lowered, like mine is. The cable mechanism is known for shitting itself and needs fairly extensively modifying. That's why I chose the rod. I am looking at going cable now, but that's far from straight-forward as I said.
Cut-shut driveshafts won't last 5 minutes, so you're into Ł250 each custom shafts. God knows you want to get those right (eh Luca??!!) and by the time you've spent Ł500 on shafts, it's silly not to go equal length, right?
So, theres another problem, mounting the centre shaft bearing. Yes, another 5 minute bracket made from shit laying around.
Hydraulic clutch? The 'box/line is the easy bit, what about the pedal/cylinder?
Shall I go on?
When you've done yours, maybe you can do everyone elses for Ł150 then?
The mounts are hardly something that you can just knock up from random shit lying around and if you don't want to run S1 suspension. what then? That's why my mounts too alot more work. They'd work with STANDARD suspension if you wanted to.
The shifter conumdrum is an interesting one too. The rod change shifter almost bolts on. I had to remake the stabiliser bar and re-shape the floorpan, god only knows what would have been needed if the engine wasn't lowered, like mine is. The cable mechanism is known for shitting itself and needs fairly extensively modifying. That's why I chose the rod. I am looking at going cable now, but that's far from straight-forward as I said.
Cut-shut driveshafts won't last 5 minutes, so you're into Ł250 each custom shafts. God knows you want to get those right (eh Luca??!!) and by the time you've spent Ł500 on shafts, it's silly not to go equal length, right?
So, theres another problem, mounting the centre shaft bearing. Yes, another 5 minute bracket made from shit laying around.
Hydraulic clutch? The 'box/line is the easy bit, what about the pedal/cylinder?
Shall I go on?
Cool, an afternoons work then.
When you've done yours, maybe you can do everyone elses for Ł150 then?
The mounts are hardly something that you can just knock up from random shit lying around and if you don't want to run S1 suspension. what then? That's why my mounts too alot more work. They'd work with STANDARD suspension if you wanted to.
The shifter conumdrum is an interesting one too. The rod change shifter almost bolts on. I had to remake the stabiliser bar and re-shape the floorpan, god only knows what would have been needed if the engine wasn't lowered, like mine is. The cable mechanism is known for shitting itself and needs fairly extensively modifying. That's why I chose the rod. I am looking at going cable now, but that's far from straight-forward as I said.
Cut-shut driveshafts won't last 5 minutes, so you're into Ł250 each custom shafts. God knows you want to get those right (eh Luca??!!) and by the time you've spent Ł500 on shafts, it's silly not to go equal length, right?
So, theres another problem, mounting the centre shaft bearing. Yes, another 5 minute bracket made from shit laying around.
Hydraulic clutch? The 'box/line is the easy bit, what about the pedal/cylinder?
Shall I go on?
When you've done yours, maybe you can do everyone elses for Ł150 then?
The mounts are hardly something that you can just knock up from random shit lying around and if you don't want to run S1 suspension. what then? That's why my mounts too alot more work. They'd work with STANDARD suspension if you wanted to.
The shifter conumdrum is an interesting one too. The rod change shifter almost bolts on. I had to remake the stabiliser bar and re-shape the floorpan, god only knows what would have been needed if the engine wasn't lowered, like mine is. The cable mechanism is known for shitting itself and needs fairly extensively modifying. That's why I chose the rod. I am looking at going cable now, but that's far from straight-forward as I said.
Cut-shut driveshafts won't last 5 minutes, so you're into Ł250 each custom shafts. God knows you want to get those right (eh Luca??!!) and by the time you've spent Ł500 on shafts, it's silly not to go equal length, right?
So, theres another problem, mounting the centre shaft bearing. Yes, another 5 minute bracket made from shit laying around.
Hydraulic clutch? The 'box/line is the easy bit, what about the pedal/cylinder?
Shall I go on?
you can go on if you like mate . the cables fit the box and the stick so they only need a hole in the floor. and the on the shifter 3 out of the four bolt holes line up. as for cut and shut shafts why would the only last 5mins on what proof?? they only cost Ł50 to knock up. and the peddle cylinder aint to hard just cut off the clutch peddle and weld the focus one onto the peddle box and cut a hole for the two hydraulic pipes to go through
How about this?
The reason for it is loss of gears or jammed in gear.The early shift towers have a bolt which holds the selector arm to the vertical shift shaft.Over time ,and harsh shifting,this bolt will fret and can break off its head resulting in total loss of gear selection or jammed in gear.The ally to can only be removed if the levers are in the neutral(vertical) position and not stuck in gear.If the tower is forced off when the trans is in gear it will bend the fork keeper assy which will need replacement due to this damage and is not a part that can be had from Ford.The bolt head must also be removed from the trans as it will damage gears and can be punched ut thru the trans case!
Believe me, the mod for this isn't a 5 minute job either and is why I chose the rod change. However, now that I've experienced the delights on a shite gearshift where there was no provision for a quickshift, I'm looking to carry out the required mods to fit it.
So, who has done the theory based on t'internet and who has done the actual HANDS ON??
Proof? Someone very well known with a high powered Mk1 Fiesta had first hand experience of welded driveshafts. They break where the welding ruins the tempering of the metal, not directly on the welds, but very close to. Do you think I only spent 5 minutes looking into this conversion before I did it?
How about this?
I have read plenty of cases of the diff exiting the gearbox through the casing with this failure.
Believe me, the mod for this isn't a 5 minute job either and is why I chose the rod change. However, now that I've experienced the delights on a shite gearshift where there was no provision for a quickshift, I'm looking to carry out the required mods to fit it.
So, who has done the theory based on t'internet and who has done the actual HANDS ON??

How about this?
I have read plenty of cases of the diff exiting the gearbox through the casing with this failure.
Believe me, the mod for this isn't a 5 minute job either and is why I chose the rod change. However, now that I've experienced the delights on a shite gearshift where there was no provision for a quickshift, I'm looking to carry out the required mods to fit it.
So, who has done the theory based on t'internet and who has done the actual HANDS ON??

So, you're running the MTX with welded shafts?? If so, well done. How long has it been fitted and what have you done with it?
How about this??
How about this??
on the later type,the selector arm is in 2 parts that are spot welded together.One part takes the roll pin,the other is the arm that selects the gears.We have seen some of these break at the spot welds…
yes i have launched with them and drove at over 115mph and had no probs with them. but yes your ones are the better shafts hands down but for money that mine cost i wont be buying a set thats for sure
and people break standard shafts and dont end up on there roof.
Last edited by crazycage; Jun 2, 2009 at 04:25 PM.




