My new dashboard
I had these few parts on shelf for a while so it was time to fit them onboard!
It remains me to tweak a spare speedo casing and its wheel to fit the wheel sensor and its magnets and then the speedo will be working
The genuine one:

(Yes I know she’s dirty.. I don’t use it very often
)
The new setup:
(with a bit of cleaning!)

The little reflection is due to the Lexan screen I fitted to replace the factory plexi.
First of all I didn’t wanted the trip reset hole and secondly it hard to remove it without braking it!! This reflection is accentuated on the pic but in real you don’t really notice it.
I was worry when I did this but I’m fine and it’ll prevent the dust to enter my dash)
Night mode

I also tweak the SECS monitor to reduce the backlighting in day and even more in night
Close-up of the control panel (a bit blur!)

From behind:

I started from a second hand clock from a Zetec Escort with coilpack (this way I knew that I could also use the tach module if necessary as I’m on coilpack without the ‘driver’ with my P8)
I kept the wire in over length in case of new plans or resale…
I managed to keep the genuine wire board with few modifications
It’s much more simple to supply the lights that I wanted to keep on the dash.
And I also wanted to keep the genuine connector to avoid to make a new loom.
I just add a 9 pins connector for the control panel, the wheel sensor and the water injection drive (from the SECS)
I used these braided tube for looms as it looks clean
I had to move the inverter as I kept the genuine centre pod and of course I wanted it to have is backlight!
For that I made a little board for him and it’s resistor and output loom
Control panel details:


Shift light integration in the surround

For those that may be interested as I use my coilpack without driver I used a tach adapter from Automer instead of the usual diodes bridge. This adapter is wired on the live feed of the coilpack so you don’t mess with the amp outputs and then may avoid troubles..
The stack could have been plugged on one coil but I connected with the SECS as my adapter is waterproof and located on en engine bay so I simply used the factory green tach wire
It remains me to tweak a spare speedo casing and its wheel to fit the wheel sensor and its magnets and then the speedo will be working
The genuine one:

(Yes I know she’s dirty.. I don’t use it very often
The new setup:
(with a bit of cleaning!)

The little reflection is due to the Lexan screen I fitted to replace the factory plexi.
First of all I didn’t wanted the trip reset hole and secondly it hard to remove it without braking it!! This reflection is accentuated on the pic but in real you don’t really notice it.
I was worry when I did this but I’m fine and it’ll prevent the dust to enter my dash)
Night mode

I also tweak the SECS monitor to reduce the backlighting in day and even more in night
Close-up of the control panel (a bit blur!)

From behind:

I started from a second hand clock from a Zetec Escort with coilpack (this way I knew that I could also use the tach module if necessary as I’m on coilpack without the ‘driver’ with my P8)
I kept the wire in over length in case of new plans or resale…
I managed to keep the genuine wire board with few modifications
It’s much more simple to supply the lights that I wanted to keep on the dash.
And I also wanted to keep the genuine connector to avoid to make a new loom.
I just add a 9 pins connector for the control panel, the wheel sensor and the water injection drive (from the SECS)
I used these braided tube for looms as it looks clean
I had to move the inverter as I kept the genuine centre pod and of course I wanted it to have is backlight!
For that I made a little board for him and it’s resistor and output loom
Control panel details:


Shift light integration in the surround

For those that may be interested as I use my coilpack without driver I used a tach adapter from Automer instead of the usual diodes bridge. This adapter is wired on the live feed of the coilpack so you don’t mess with the amp outputs and then may avoid troubles..
The stack could have been plugged on one coil but I connected with the SECS as my adapter is waterproof and located on en engine bay so I simply used the factory green tach wire
Looking good July
youve been quiet on here for a while, hope things are going well mate.
get yourself over to www.EscortRSCosworth.com
also, this is mine
youve been quiet on here for a while, hope things are going well mate.
get yourself over to www.EscortRSCosworth.com
also, this is mine
Brillant Kelv!
I wanted a ST700 too but a SPA was more cost effective.. :/
And I also really wanted to keep the lights from factory since our MOT is more restrictive than yours and things are going to be worse over here in France :°(
I may also replace the fuel level gauge by the screen of a Blitz i-color SBC.. one day..
And I have the Fuel press/AFR/oil temp instead of the center ventilation
I wanted a ST700 too but a SPA was more cost effective.. :/
And I also really wanted to keep the lights from factory since our MOT is more restrictive than yours and things are going to be worse over here in France :°(
I may also replace the fuel level gauge by the screen of a Blitz i-color SBC.. one day..
And I have the Fuel press/AFR/oil temp instead of the center ventilation
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July, it should be good with a coloured screen.
i imagine it could prove awkward with your strict law's.
Alo, yes it is a boost gauge it was the last 80mm 4 bar gauge they had.
as for speed sensors, its come with whatever Mike supplied it with, id presume the same as on his car, but its not wired in yet.
the white Defi's have now been sold and are to be replaced with more black Stacks
i imagine it could prove awkward with your strict law's.
Alo, yes it is a boost gauge it was the last 80mm 4 bar gauge they had.
as for speed sensors, its come with whatever Mike supplied it with, id presume the same as on his car, but its not wired in yet.
the white Defi's have now been sold and are to be replaced with more black Stacks
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