Just wondering if it's worth buying one, I've an over heating phobia!! Already have a alloy rad, changing the water pump and thermostat shortly and was thinking of a alloy header tank and swirl pot???

Is it worth the money and effort??

CheeRS

 

yes it is
but make usre you get a matching cap for it
and don't touch it after you've got the bonnet open
it gets really hot

 

they offer no benefit unless your one is split IMHO

and like dojj says, they are a nightmare if you touch them!

 

Make sure you change the fan switch sensor in the alloy rad - stu's are brilliant

 

Av to agree with chip on this one unless ya going all alloy tanks etc, plus ya cannot see if ya av any water in them.
The swirl pot is at least some use to get any air out the system, I put a new std header tank and swirl pot, just used burtons connectors to fit return into header from swirl.

 

Get one with a sight glass
standard plastic ones expand then contract from the hot to cold cycle and eventually split metal won't do this but like already said they get friggin hot


Luciano

 

Sorry to sound stupid but who's stu? Found an 'uprated Ford Sierra Cosworth Fan Switch' on ebay wonder are these any good?

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/UPRATED-Ford-S...80824135r16554

Thanks for the advice!

 

That is Stu's company that is advertising the very fan switch in the link you have posted buy one its a good mod


Luciano

 

just bought one! thanks for the info. Where would you suggest a man would buy a thermostat and water pump?? I don't mind paying as long as the stuff is good, have you ever had to buy these bits??

Thanks again

 

I would say Ford mate Never bought a water pump but have bought a few stats as 4x4 ones are notoriously unreliable, I have replaced the whole of the stat housing in my car though


Luciano

 

Spot on Charlie as usual mate. Do check the pump first though even if it is a Ford one. My new one didn't have all the holes drilled into it and confused the hell out of me once it was fitted... I wish I'd checked over it first.

You might also wish to consider a capilliary type temp gauge Bullseye. These can be wired into the thermo housing (needs drilling and tapping though) or into the side of the block where a blanking nut normally sits next to the water jacket. You'll see my old one sticking out of the block to the left of the tissue that is sticking out of the oil breather return (bottom left).

 

Afterthought - the one in my thermostat housing can also be seen at the front of the engine - though this is gone now as I've refitted a gen rs500 one (this is my rs500 motor not my 2wd one - should have said that!!)



Check out ebay Item number: 360089080911 for one of these housings shown here if you want?

 

The rad switches for the alloy rads that stu sells come on at 92C and go off at 88C, in case you are interested, whereas the std one cylces over 10C range.
tabetha

 

This is better for the fans right? But is it better for the engine, as in do they cut in before the standard switches? do the standard rad switches come on at 92C aswell? I have a heat phobia but dont want my fans running all day.

 

in short, when the fans come on, they draw alot of current, which basically takes away current needed for vital other components such as fuel pump etc. If your giving your car a bit of stick and the fans are on, the fuel pump might not be able to draw enough current thus meaning not enough fuel which equals melted engine

the other issue is that the standard switch comes on quite early and stays on for ages

the switch you have bought will mean the engine will get hotter but the fans will come on later but for shorter cycles as opposed to coming on early and virtually staying on all the time

thats my understanding of it anyway.....there is a thread about it somewhere, i'll dig it out

ps. if you havent already done it, rewire your fuel pump, a must for cossies!

 

here you go, found it

https://passionford.com/forum/general-car-related-discussion/243088-new-summer-product-for-all-2-and-4wd-sierra-cosworths.html

 

The std switch comes on at 86/87C and goes off at 77C, the problem is not only the span of the temp range(on/off) but the fact that the stat is trying to keep the temp to 82C whilst the fan fights to lower it to 77C.
Having measured temps before and after fitting a alloy rad at all speeds, including on rollers, I have made the follwing observations.
The fans will NOT be on at 70mph, this is rubbish, I have two lights that come on with my fans and they are not on at 70mph.
The std system was crap to start with, maybe the reason it was changed!!
The shield that sits between the intercooler/radiator on std set ups holds all the heat away from the i/cooler but has a drastic effect on water cooling it can easily be on for 10 miles at 50mph on a hot day with this in place taken off it will be off in 2 miles at 50 mph, I took mine off reasoning that flow above normal speeds is very suffecient to keep i/cooler cool, so would only be of benefit when not needed if fitted.
The fan circuit without a doubt needs rewiring, I use a fully waterproof relay/housing on the inner wing on mine.
With the alloy rad/rs500 i/cooler I now have things have improved a lot, but as said problem is the fan switch but also the stat, 77C is way to cool for the engine nearer 90C is preferable.
I do not yet have my vented bonnet fitted, but this can only help to draw hot air out even better.
The temps I qouted are the ones I measured, not the ones that are supposed to be but actual ones.
Adding deflectors will help immensley as air works on the lazy principle of easiest route, so if it can go around something it will instead of through it ie the rad, so thin ply below the front edge of rad to stop air spilling out and also at the side helps a lot as well.
tabetha

 

Thanks dude interesting reading, there's a 'sierra cosworth radiator colling fan loom' on ebay its mentioned in that thread I wonder is it worth a look? Has there been any feed back on these?

Tabetha- thanks for the practical sensible advice! Is there an aftermarket stat that would suit an alloy rad and one of STu fan switches?
First thing to be done this evening is make some custom air directors and remove that shield! Fair play, thanks

 

you can rewire the fan circuit yourself with fresh cable, alot of people do that - there is a thread on it somewhere with a wiring diagram

but i cannot stress enough, you need to rewire your fuel pump if you havent already done so. v.v. important!

 

is there a post on doing that? Just heavier wiring and a relay??

 

for the fuel pump? basically you rewire it with a direct feed from th4 battery so it draws the correct current all the time. the wiring gets old on cossie and i've seen a pump draw as low as 10v at idle which is dangerous, obviously its on full chat when it matters

heres the diagram