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Identifying Cossie Head

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Old Jul 9, 2008 | 11:36 AM
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Default Identifying Cossie Head

Hi Ppl, would anyone be able to ID this head for me please. Its supposedly a YB cossie 2L. I bought it to fit to a pinto block.

V86HF6090AA
YN0001

If possible would love to know what each part of the number means too. Also if its not asking too much, where would one measure the head from and to to tell if its been skimmed and what safe range should I look for.

Thanks heaps.

-Andy
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Old Jul 9, 2008 | 11:49 AM
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Originally Posted by AussieModder
Hi Ppl, would anyone be able to ID this head for me please. Its supposedly a YB cossie 2L. I bought it to fit to a pinto block.

V86HF6090AA
YN0001

If possible would love to know what each part of the number means too. Also if its not asking too much, where would one measure the head from and to to tell if its been skimmed and what safe range should I look for.

Thanks heaps.

-Andy
hey mate. cant help with your questions.. but are you from oz
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Old Jul 9, 2008 | 11:50 AM
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its a 3dr cosworth/ early 2wd YBB saff head with the 2 bolt thermostat housing

The v86 part identifies it as 2wd cosworth and AA as the early head

Ford recommended min head thickness is 138.6mm but people on here have gone thinner - couple of recent threads say as low as 138
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Old Jul 9, 2008 | 11:51 AM
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yes it is the 3 door plasticine head

Last edited by Turbosystems; Jul 9, 2008 at 11:52 AM.
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Old Jul 9, 2008 | 01:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Mitsy FQ
yes it is the 3 door plasticine head
That is NOT reassuring
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Old Jul 9, 2008 | 01:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Mitsy FQ
yes it is the 3 door plasticine head



Due to the exhaust water jackets being of the large type not holes as on the later

And other differences

Paul
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Old Jul 9, 2008 | 10:17 PM
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Thanks heaps people for the ID info. I'm pretty green on the cossie side of things.

I've actually won the bid but haven't paid yet , the guy advertised it as 'looks like its never been skimmed, still measures over 138mm'. From the sounds of what you are saying that's the bare min for that head so i'll be careful to measure it when picking up. So that measurement is from rocker cover face to head gasket surface ?

Anything else to watch out for other than cracks & seats etc ?

I'm guessing the term 'plasticine head' refers to that model being easily warped so needing skimming every time?

And yes I am from Australia.

Thanks again people
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Old Jul 9, 2008 | 10:28 PM
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As allready posted it is an early 3dr head. Considering you are fitting it to a pinto the thickness is not of great concern, as you will be needing custom pistons to run high compression anyway. Also remember the 3dr head uses small washer head bolts.

Lastly don't expect large gains from fitting the YB head to a pinto. It was designed as a turbo head and as such the ports are way to small for use in a N/A engine. Best results are found by opening up the inlet ports to 27mm, and exhaust ports to 26.5mm. With a suitable pair of cams and 12.0:1 C.R and engine spec to match you'll then see 200+bhp. If you leave the head standard you'll struggle to make 150bhp!
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Old Jul 9, 2008 | 10:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Karl
As allready posted it is an early 3dr head. Considering you are fitting it to a pinto the thickness is not of great concern, as you will be needing custom pistons to run high compression anyway. Also remember the 3dr head uses small washer head bolts.

Lastly don't expect large gains from fitting the YB head to a pinto. It was designed as a turbo head and as such the ports are way to small for use in a N/A engine. Best results are found by opening up the inlet ports to 27mm, and exhaust ports to 26.5mm. With a suitable pair of cams and 12.0:1 C.R and engine spec to match you'll then see 200+bhp. If you leave the head standard you'll struggle to make 150bhp!
Blimey Karl that's a lot of free info!
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Old Jul 9, 2008 | 10:38 PM
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Originally Posted by bud-weis
Blimey Karl that's a lot of free info!

thats what i thought! fair play though
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Old Jul 9, 2008 | 10:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Karl
As allready posted it is an early 3dr head. Considering you are fitting it to a pinto the thickness is not of great concern, as you will be needing custom pistons to run high compression anyway. Also remember the 3dr head uses small washer head bolts.

Lastly don't expect large gains from fitting the YB head to a pinto. It was designed as a turbo head and as such the ports are way to small for use in a N/A engine. Best results are found by opening up the inlet ports to 27mm, and exhaust ports to 26.5mm. With a suitable pair of cams and 12.0:1 C.R and engine spec to match you'll then see 200+bhp. If you leave the head standard you'll struggle to make 150bhp!

Great response and information
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Old Jul 9, 2008 | 10:40 PM
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Just in case it helps, here's a couple of photos of the head. Im a lil sus on it because in the photo it looks thinner at the front to the rear. Where the back pot is theres meat between the exhaust manifold face and the head surface but by the photo I cant see that near the front. These are a hellishly expensive head here so I dont want to buy a wasted head.

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Old Jul 9, 2008 | 10:41 PM
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LOL it is good info, but I don't mind helping as I don't really build N/A engines any more due to the huge turbo lag problems! ROFLOL
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Old Jul 9, 2008 | 10:44 PM
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Aussiemodder,

From the photo I can tell you that the head is at least 138.5mm thick and is in good rot free condition for a 2wd head.
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Old Jul 9, 2008 | 10:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Karl
LOL it is good info, but I don't mind helping as I don't really build N/A engines any more due to the huge turbo lag problems! ROFLOL


you haven't started mapping Evo's yet have you? i don't mind it going on L8 either lol...
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Old Jul 9, 2008 | 10:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Karl
As allready posted it is an early 3dr head. Considering you are fitting it to a pinto the thickness is not of great concern, as you will be needing custom pistons to run high compression anyway. Also remember the 3dr head uses small washer head bolts.

Lastly don't expect large gains from fitting the YB head to a pinto. It was designed as a turbo head and as such the ports are way to small for use in a N/A engine. Best results are found by opening up the inlet ports to 27mm, and exhaust ports to 26.5mm. With a suitable pair of cams and 12.0:1 C.R and engine spec to match you'll then see 200+bhp. If you leave the head standard you'll struggle to make 150bhp!
Thanks heaps Karl, that's great info. I was planning to lightly turbo it but nothing too nuts. Its going in a little MK1 escort 2 door so it doesn't need to make too much power.
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Old Jul 9, 2008 | 10:48 PM
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Hi Martin,

I only map them on after market ecu's, and yes I do map them on L8 ecu's! Just in the process of making a conversion for them to allow easy fitment of L8 that can be reverted back to standard mgmt if required! It makes me chuckle that I can ditch the std management and make the car so much better on L8!!
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Old Jul 9, 2008 | 10:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Karl
Hi Martin,

I only map them on after market ecu's, and yes I do map them on L8 ecu's! Just in the process of making a conversion for them to allow easy fitment of L8 that can be reverted back to standard mgmt if required! It makes me chuckle that I can ditch the std management and make the car so much better on L8!!
hmmmm this could be for me

I don't like the fact it's on an air flow meter....and i don't like the fact that it tries to stall every time you back off the throttle ( after being on boost a little )....most of all i hate the way it drinks soooo much fookin fuel! it must run so rich!

ps if you need a guinea pig car i'd be more than willing to help
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Old Jul 9, 2008 | 10:55 PM
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Martin,

People think I'm winding them up when I talk about all the problems of the std mgmt. With L8 all these issues are fixed, and with better drivability, refinement and proper boost control! Will let you know once I've finished the conversion with complete results.
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Old Jul 9, 2008 | 10:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Karl
Aussiemodder,

From the photo I can tell you that the head is at least 138.5mm thick and is in good rot free condition for a 2wd head.
Looks like you've got yourself a good buy then AussieModder.
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Old Jul 9, 2008 | 11:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Karl
Martin,

People think I'm winding them up when I talk about all the problems of the std mgmt. With L8 all these issues are fixed, and with better drivability, refinement and proper boost control! Will let you know once I've finished the conversion with complete results.
I'd defo be interested! boost control is poor at the minute, i'm fairly sure i have a little bit of surge and it's only a standard turbo lol....some proper mapping would defo be a good thing!

The engines seem very very good, nice and responsive but there are definite issues with driveability imo...it's good to see you're working to a solution i'll pop in for a chat sometime if you're not too busy, i'll even bring some cakes lol.
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Old Jul 9, 2008 | 11:04 PM
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Aussie modder,

If you're going to turbo it then best to use Cosworth management and cosworth inlet/exhaust manifolds. The pinto bottom end is fine for this conversion, and you can retain the entire pinto bottom end. I would recommend changing pistons though as the pinto piston ring pack is very thick and not ideal in turbo applications. If you are keeping with pinto pistons, try to source a transit bottom end as these are lower compression height pistons and are ideal for turbocharging up to 250bhp!

Last edited by Karl; Jul 9, 2008 at 11:05 PM.
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Old Jul 9, 2008 | 11:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Karl
Aussie modder,

If you're going to turbo it then best to use Cosworth management and cosworth inlet/exhaust manifolds. The pinto bottom end is fine for this conversion, and you can retain the entire pinto bottom end. I would recommend changing pistons though as the pinto piston ring pack is very thick and not ideal in turbo applications. If you are keeping with pinto pistons, try to source a transit bottom end as these are lower compression height pistons and are ideal for turbocharging up to 250bhp!
Thanks again Karl, very much obliged indeed. I had planned to go for the standard crank, H beam rods and forgies or similar to drop the compression aiming for about 8:1. I also bought the inlet manifold to suit but it has no plenum so I will have to make one up. I'll keep an eye out for the cossie management, I'm just starting to collect the bits so theres no rush. 250hp would be fine but if the bottom end was built for more it would be peace of mind and give me somewhere to go in the future.

Again to everyone, Thanks heaps for the help. -Andy
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Old Jul 10, 2008 | 12:19 AM
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Andy,

If you're changing the rod's then why not use cossie items and cossie mahle pistons. They're the best quality pistons and rings available for a cossie!

The std pinto crank is fine up to 400bhp, but you may want to consider dowling the flywheel to the crank as its only a 6 bolter compared to the cosworths 9.
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Old Jul 10, 2008 | 12:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Karl
Andy,

If you're changing the rod's then why not use cossie items and cossie mahle pistons. They're the best quality pistons and rings available for a cossie!

The std pinto crank is fine up to 400bhp, but you may want to consider dowling the flywheel to the crank as its only a 6 bolter compared to the cosworths 9.
I'll certainly look into cossie bits but im a bit concerned that by the time I buy them overseas and ship em they will simply be too expensive and risky if somethings up. Although I'll check them out, the local dealers here look useless, only subaru and mitsubishi stuff mentioned so I doubt they stock anything for pintos. If I was going 300+hp im sure they'd be a lot more appealing but part of keeping the HP down is keeping the cost down, at least for now. Having said that I may be plesently surprised when I get a cossie price list

Good advice on the crankshaft btw, thanks.
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Old Jul 10, 2008 | 12:36 PM
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where about in aus mate?
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Old Jul 10, 2008 | 12:50 PM
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gold coast i saw this lot on ebay myself what did you pay for the head mate last i looked it was $635 i think could be wrong. anyway he had lots of stuff the pistons where fooked lol 5.8cr or something like that what a waste.
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Old Jul 10, 2008 | 01:47 PM
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Originally Posted by badnews
gold coast i saw this lot on ebay myself what did you pay for the head mate last i looked it was $635 i think could be wrong. anyway he had lots of stuff the pistons where fooked lol 5.8cr or something like that what a waste.
It got to $1675 in the end. Yeah the pistons were too low for me 5.8:1 it would be so doey down low it would be useless i'd reckon.
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Old Jul 10, 2008 | 01:48 PM
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Originally Posted by R5FORD
where about in aus mate?
Im on the very sunny Gold Coast
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Old Jul 10, 2008 | 01:57 PM
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$1675 fook thats expensive i know wish i'd put some bit's in the container
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Old Jul 10, 2008 | 08:24 PM
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Originally Posted by badnews
$1675 fook thats expensive i know wish i'd put some bit's in the container
Ahhh immigrated without bringing cossie parts, tut tut, big mistake! Wonder how many cossie heads you can take as cabin luggage :P Could be plane tickets in it for some. What do these fetch in the UK ?
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Old Jul 10, 2008 | 08:30 PM
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Originally Posted by AussieModder
Ahhh immigrated without bringing cossie parts, tut tut, big mistake! Wonder how many cossie heads you can take as cabin luggage :P Could be plane tickets in it for some. What do these fetch in the UK ?
I sold a complete one as good as that last year to a guy in Australia for Ł375 and he arranged collection his end
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Old Jul 10, 2008 | 09:52 PM
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Originally Posted by a.k.a
I sold a complete one as good as that last year to a guy in Australia for Ł375 and he arranged collection his end
That would have been about AUD900 at that time. There seems to have been a bit of an escort revival lately, probably because of fuel prices I guess. The last cossie head I saw on eBay went for AUD$2025 about 3 months back and was missing a couple of bits and was supposedly a spare sold by a racing team so condition could be dubious. Very few and far between here it seems.

Do many come up over there lately ?
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Old Jul 11, 2008 | 08:03 AM
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Good ones with plenty of life left in them are getting hard to find - most have been skimmed to death.

early 2wd heads are the cheapest, Ł375 was a fair price at the time, probably be Ł400 plus now though. Good 4x4 heads are seen as the best and are Ł600 plus these days and can be used in 2wd applications as well.
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Old Jul 11, 2008 | 09:31 AM
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i left a good 2wd head in my old unit 138.7 good cams valves and guides just had a freshen up lol.lots of other stuff as well half a dozen manifolds an old complete bottom end wanting a rebuild two sets of rods a 500 oil pump and loads of other stuff now i realy am crying
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Old Jul 11, 2008 | 11:15 AM
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Originally Posted by badnews
i left a good 2wd head in my old unit 138.7 good cams valves and guides just had a freshen up lol.lots of other stuff as well half a dozen manifolds an old complete bottom end wanting a rebuild two sets of rods a 500 oil pump and loads of other stuff now i realy am crying
There There never mind.....................

Soooooooooooooo about this "unit"
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Old Jul 11, 2008 | 11:21 AM
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hehe, I will help you clear it Andy
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Old Jul 11, 2008 | 11:26 AM
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one more bit of free information - it's a cam cover, not a rocker cover. the cams do not operate the valves via rockers like they do on the SOHC pinto
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Old Jul 11, 2008 | 11:33 AM
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ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh Nick. STOP IT
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Old Jul 11, 2008 | 11:44 AM
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it has to be said Rich. it's my OCD. i like having an OCD, it makes me 'special'
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