Identifying Cossie Head
Hi Ppl, would anyone be able to ID this head for me please. Its supposedly a YB cossie 2L. I bought it to fit to a pinto block.
V86HF6090AA
YN0001
If possible would love to know what each part of the number means too. Also if its not asking too much, where would one measure the head from and to to tell if its been skimmed and what safe range should I look for.
Thanks heaps.
-Andy
V86HF6090AA
YN0001
If possible would love to know what each part of the number means too. Also if its not asking too much, where would one measure the head from and to to tell if its been skimmed and what safe range should I look for.
Thanks heaps.
-Andy
Hi Ppl, would anyone be able to ID this head for me please. Its supposedly a YB cossie 2L. I bought it to fit to a pinto block.
V86HF6090AA
YN0001
If possible would love to know what each part of the number means too. Also if its not asking too much, where would one measure the head from and to to tell if its been skimmed and what safe range should I look for.
Thanks heaps.
-Andy
V86HF6090AA
YN0001
If possible would love to know what each part of the number means too. Also if its not asking too much, where would one measure the head from and to to tell if its been skimmed and what safe range should I look for.
Thanks heaps.
-Andy

its a 3dr cosworth/ early 2wd YBB saff head with the 2 bolt thermostat housing
The v86 part identifies it as 2wd cosworth and AA as the early head
Ford recommended min head thickness is 138.6mm but people on here have gone thinner - couple of recent threads say as low as 138
Thanks heaps people for the ID info. I'm pretty green on the cossie side of things.
I've actually won the bid but haven't paid yet
, the guy advertised it as 'looks like its never been skimmed, still measures over 138mm'. From the sounds of what you are saying that's the bare min for that head so i'll be careful to measure it when picking up. So that measurement is from rocker cover face to head gasket surface ?
Anything else to watch out for other than cracks & seats etc ?
I'm guessing the term 'plasticine head' refers to that model being easily warped so needing skimming every time?
And yes I am from Australia.
Thanks again people
I've actually won the bid but haven't paid yet
Anything else to watch out for other than cracks & seats etc ?
I'm guessing the term 'plasticine head' refers to that model being easily warped so needing skimming every time?
And yes I am from Australia.
Thanks again people
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As allready posted it is an early 3dr head. Considering you are fitting it to a pinto the thickness is not of great concern, as you will be needing custom pistons to run high compression anyway. Also remember the 3dr head uses small washer head bolts.
Lastly don't expect large gains from fitting the YB head to a pinto. It was designed as a turbo head and as such the ports are way to small for use in a N/A engine. Best results are found by opening up the inlet ports to 27mm, and exhaust ports to 26.5mm. With a suitable pair of cams and 12.0:1 C.R and engine spec to match you'll then see 200+bhp. If you leave the head standard you'll struggle to make 150bhp!
Lastly don't expect large gains from fitting the YB head to a pinto. It was designed as a turbo head and as such the ports are way to small for use in a N/A engine. Best results are found by opening up the inlet ports to 27mm, and exhaust ports to 26.5mm. With a suitable pair of cams and 12.0:1 C.R and engine spec to match you'll then see 200+bhp. If you leave the head standard you'll struggle to make 150bhp!
As allready posted it is an early 3dr head. Considering you are fitting it to a pinto the thickness is not of great concern, as you will be needing custom pistons to run high compression anyway. Also remember the 3dr head uses small washer head bolts.
Lastly don't expect large gains from fitting the YB head to a pinto. It was designed as a turbo head and as such the ports are way to small for use in a N/A engine. Best results are found by opening up the inlet ports to 27mm, and exhaust ports to 26.5mm. With a suitable pair of cams and 12.0:1 C.R and engine spec to match you'll then see 200+bhp. If you leave the head standard you'll struggle to make 150bhp!
Lastly don't expect large gains from fitting the YB head to a pinto. It was designed as a turbo head and as such the ports are way to small for use in a N/A engine. Best results are found by opening up the inlet ports to 27mm, and exhaust ports to 26.5mm. With a suitable pair of cams and 12.0:1 C.R and engine spec to match you'll then see 200+bhp. If you leave the head standard you'll struggle to make 150bhp!
As allready posted it is an early 3dr head. Considering you are fitting it to a pinto the thickness is not of great concern, as you will be needing custom pistons to run high compression anyway. Also remember the 3dr head uses small washer head bolts.
Lastly don't expect large gains from fitting the YB head to a pinto. It was designed as a turbo head and as such the ports are way to small for use in a N/A engine. Best results are found by opening up the inlet ports to 27mm, and exhaust ports to 26.5mm. With a suitable pair of cams and 12.0:1 C.R and engine spec to match you'll then see 200+bhp. If you leave the head standard you'll struggle to make 150bhp!
Lastly don't expect large gains from fitting the YB head to a pinto. It was designed as a turbo head and as such the ports are way to small for use in a N/A engine. Best results are found by opening up the inlet ports to 27mm, and exhaust ports to 26.5mm. With a suitable pair of cams and 12.0:1 C.R and engine spec to match you'll then see 200+bhp. If you leave the head standard you'll struggle to make 150bhp!

Great response and information
Just in case it helps, here's a couple of photos of the head. Im a lil sus on it because in the photo it looks thinner at the front to the rear. Where the back pot is theres meat between the exhaust manifold face and the head surface but by the photo I cant see that near the front. These are a hellishly expensive head here so I dont want to buy a wasted head.

As allready posted it is an early 3dr head. Considering you are fitting it to a pinto the thickness is not of great concern, as you will be needing custom pistons to run high compression anyway. Also remember the 3dr head uses small washer head bolts.
Lastly don't expect large gains from fitting the YB head to a pinto. It was designed as a turbo head and as such the ports are way to small for use in a N/A engine. Best results are found by opening up the inlet ports to 27mm, and exhaust ports to 26.5mm. With a suitable pair of cams and 12.0:1 C.R and engine spec to match you'll then see 200+bhp. If you leave the head standard you'll struggle to make 150bhp!
Lastly don't expect large gains from fitting the YB head to a pinto. It was designed as a turbo head and as such the ports are way to small for use in a N/A engine. Best results are found by opening up the inlet ports to 27mm, and exhaust ports to 26.5mm. With a suitable pair of cams and 12.0:1 C.R and engine spec to match you'll then see 200+bhp. If you leave the head standard you'll struggle to make 150bhp!
Hi Martin,
I only map them on after market ecu's, and yes I do map them on L8 ecu's! Just in the process of making a conversion for them to allow easy fitment of L8 that can be reverted back to standard mgmt if required! It makes me chuckle that I can ditch the std management and make the car so much better on L8!!
I only map them on after market ecu's, and yes I do map them on L8 ecu's! Just in the process of making a conversion for them to allow easy fitment of L8 that can be reverted back to standard mgmt if required! It makes me chuckle that I can ditch the std management and make the car so much better on L8!!
Hi Martin,
I only map them on after market ecu's, and yes I do map them on L8 ecu's! Just in the process of making a conversion for them to allow easy fitment of L8 that can be reverted back to standard mgmt if required! It makes me chuckle that I can ditch the std management and make the car so much better on L8!!
I only map them on after market ecu's, and yes I do map them on L8 ecu's! Just in the process of making a conversion for them to allow easy fitment of L8 that can be reverted back to standard mgmt if required! It makes me chuckle that I can ditch the std management and make the car so much better on L8!!


I don't like the fact it's on an air flow meter....and i don't like the fact that it tries to stall every time you back off the throttle ( after being on boost a little )....most of all i hate the way it drinks soooo much fookin fuel! it must run so rich!
ps if you need a guinea pig car i'd be more than willing to help
Martin,
People think I'm winding them up when I talk about all the problems of the std mgmt. With L8 all these issues are fixed, and with better drivability, refinement and proper boost control! Will let you know once I've finished the conversion with complete results.
People think I'm winding them up when I talk about all the problems of the std mgmt. With L8 all these issues are fixed, and with better drivability, refinement and proper boost control! Will let you know once I've finished the conversion with complete results.
and it's only a standard turbo lol....some proper mapping would defo be a good thing! The engines seem very very good, nice and responsive but there are definite issues with driveability imo...it's good to see you're working to a solution
Aussie modder,
If you're going to turbo it then best to use Cosworth management and cosworth inlet/exhaust manifolds. The pinto bottom end is fine for this conversion, and you can retain the entire pinto bottom end. I would recommend changing pistons though as the pinto piston ring pack is very thick and not ideal in turbo applications. If you are keeping with pinto pistons, try to source a transit bottom end as these are lower compression height pistons and are ideal for turbocharging up to 250bhp!
If you're going to turbo it then best to use Cosworth management and cosworth inlet/exhaust manifolds. The pinto bottom end is fine for this conversion, and you can retain the entire pinto bottom end. I would recommend changing pistons though as the pinto piston ring pack is very thick and not ideal in turbo applications. If you are keeping with pinto pistons, try to source a transit bottom end as these are lower compression height pistons and are ideal for turbocharging up to 250bhp!
Last edited by Karl; Jul 9, 2008 at 11:05 PM.
Aussie modder,
If you're going to turbo it then best to use Cosworth management and cosworth inlet/exhaust manifolds. The pinto bottom end is fine for this conversion, and you can retain the entire pinto bottom end. I would recommend changing pistons though as the pinto piston ring pack is very thick and not ideal in turbo applications. If you are keeping with pinto pistons, try to source a transit bottom end as these are lower compression height pistons and are ideal for turbocharging up to 250bhp!
If you're going to turbo it then best to use Cosworth management and cosworth inlet/exhaust manifolds. The pinto bottom end is fine for this conversion, and you can retain the entire pinto bottom end. I would recommend changing pistons though as the pinto piston ring pack is very thick and not ideal in turbo applications. If you are keeping with pinto pistons, try to source a transit bottom end as these are lower compression height pistons and are ideal for turbocharging up to 250bhp!
Again to everyone, Thanks heaps for the help. -Andy
Andy,
If you're changing the rod's then why not use cossie items and cossie mahle pistons. They're the best quality pistons and rings available for a cossie!
The std pinto crank is fine up to 400bhp, but you may want to consider dowling the flywheel to the crank as its only a 6 bolter compared to the cosworths 9.
If you're changing the rod's then why not use cossie items and cossie mahle pistons. They're the best quality pistons and rings available for a cossie!
The std pinto crank is fine up to 400bhp, but you may want to consider dowling the flywheel to the crank as its only a 6 bolter compared to the cosworths 9.
Andy,
If you're changing the rod's then why not use cossie items and cossie mahle pistons. They're the best quality pistons and rings available for a cossie!
The std pinto crank is fine up to 400bhp, but you may want to consider dowling the flywheel to the crank as its only a 6 bolter compared to the cosworths 9.
If you're changing the rod's then why not use cossie items and cossie mahle pistons. They're the best quality pistons and rings available for a cossie!
The std pinto crank is fine up to 400bhp, but you may want to consider dowling the flywheel to the crank as its only a 6 bolter compared to the cosworths 9.
Good advice on the crankshaft btw, thanks.
I've found that life I needed.. It's HERE!!
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 1,491
Likes: 0
From: auuustralia
gold coast
i saw this lot on ebay myself what did you pay for the head mate last i looked it was $635 i think could be wrong. anyway he had lots of stuff the pistons where fooked lol 5.8cr or something like that what a waste.
i saw this lot on ebay myself what did you pay for the head mate last i looked it was $635 i think could be wrong. anyway he had lots of stuff the pistons where fooked lol 5.8cr or something like that what a waste.
It got to $1675 in the end. Yeah the pistons were too low for me 5.8:1 it would be so doey down low it would be useless i'd reckon.
Ahhh immigrated without bringing cossie parts, tut tut, big mistake! Wonder how many cossie heads you can take as cabin luggage :P Could be plane tickets in it for some. What do these fetch in the UK ?
I sold a complete one as good as that last year to a guy in Australia for Ł375 and he arranged collection his end
Do many come up over there lately ?
Good ones with plenty of life left in them are getting hard to find - most have been skimmed to death.
early 2wd heads are the cheapest, Ł375 was a fair price at the time, probably be Ł400 plus now though. Good 4x4 heads are seen as the best and are Ł600 plus these days and can be used in 2wd applications as well.
early 2wd heads are the cheapest, Ł375 was a fair price at the time, probably be Ł400 plus now though. Good 4x4 heads are seen as the best and are Ł600 plus these days and can be used in 2wd applications as well.
I've found that life I needed.. It's HERE!!
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 1,491
Likes: 0
From: auuustralia
i left a good 2wd head in my old unit 138.7 good cams valves and guides just had a freshen up lol.lots of other stuff as well half a dozen manifolds an old complete bottom end wanting a rebuild two sets of rods a 500 oil pump and loads of other stuff
now i realy am crying
now i realy am crying
i left a good 2wd head in my old unit 138.7 good cams valves and guides just had a freshen up lol.lots of other stuff as well half a dozen manifolds an old complete bottom end wanting a rebuild two sets of rods a 500 oil pump and loads of other stuff
now i realy am crying
now i realy am cryingSoooooooooooooo about this "unit"




