My way of claeaning
Thread Starter
15000
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 34
Likes: 0
From: Southend,Essex
My way of claeaning
Hi guys and gals.
Ok,I have had my 3i cab for over two years now,and have maintained it on a low budget.
It looks ok,but does suffer from paint fade on the passenger door and rear panel-and it`s red
Even the mirrors had gone almost pink,but I sprayed those lol
Drives me nuts,and as I said low budget=no respray but I`m working toward that.
This is what I do to keep it how it as,as often as I can.
Spray with bug and tar remover
Wash with Turtle Wax shampoo
Dry off with leather and look for any dried spots
Make sure no water left anywhere
All panels done with AG Paint renovator
Same again with TW Colour Magic
Then the same again with TW Original Hard shell Shine wax
And,finally,all panels done TW Gloss Guard Top Coat Sealer.
Looks great when done,but would welcome any ideas,advice,even critisism lol
Here`s a few pics,please be gentle lol
Ok,I have had my 3i cab for over two years now,and have maintained it on a low budget.
It looks ok,but does suffer from paint fade on the passenger door and rear panel-and it`s red
Even the mirrors had gone almost pink,but I sprayed those lol
Drives me nuts,and as I said low budget=no respray but I`m working toward that.
This is what I do to keep it how it as,as often as I can.
Spray with bug and tar remover
Wash with Turtle Wax shampoo
Dry off with leather and look for any dried spots
Make sure no water left anywhere
All panels done with AG Paint renovator
Same again with TW Colour Magic
Then the same again with TW Original Hard shell Shine wax
And,finally,all panels done TW Gloss Guard Top Coat Sealer.
Looks great when done,but would welcome any ideas,advice,even critisism lol
Here`s a few pics,please be gentle lol
Regular Contributor
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 333
Likes: 3
The bug/tar remover will strip any wax already on the car. I would only use the paint restorer on the panels that need it. Have a look here for some advice and info. www.detalingworld.co.uk
PassionFord Post Whore!!
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 4,033
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From: Poole
Ideas?
Use a decent sealant that will last a few months, longest lasting I have without spending lots is Poorboys EX-P sealant.
Do you use a lambswool washmitt? If not will cut down on scratching.
A microfibre drying towel like sonus will make drying a lot easier than a chamois - one of best things I've bought, used to hate drying.
Meguiars last touch has many uses, can use it with a claybar, which you would benefit from using.
Also for spraying on wet car before drying off, helps with water spots etc.
Use a decent sealant that will last a few months, longest lasting I have without spending lots is Poorboys EX-P sealant.
Do you use a lambswool washmitt? If not will cut down on scratching.
A microfibre drying towel like sonus will make drying a lot easier than a chamois - one of best things I've bought, used to hate drying.
Meguiars last touch has many uses, can use it with a claybar, which you would benefit from using.
Also for spraying on wet car before drying off, helps with water spots etc.
I've found that life I needed.. It's HERE!!
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 1,156
Likes: 1
From: birmingham
you can use a cuttin paste from any paint shop called g3 i think use this with a buffer and plenty of water to avoid burnin the paint and it shud make the paint look brand new again without needin a re spray hope this is of some help (nice car by the way)
OCD Victim
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 2,096
Likes: 29
From: SE London
Okay, couple of pointers here: you should put a sealer on before a wax. Sealers generally do not like adhering to waxes so the first time you get it wet, the sealer is gone.
Paint renovator is basically an abrasive compound which eventually will wear through paintwork. AG Paint Renovator is next to useless.
If it were me, I would do the following:
Wash the car using a wash-mitt and the 2-bucket method.
full clay over the whole car.
Wash the car again (just water is fine).
Assess what "damage" is on the paint, scratches, swirls, etc. If bad, you may need to get someone to machine polish the car with some appropriate compounds. This is not actually that expensive. Again, look on www.detailingworld.com for more information.
If the scratches, etc. are not that bad, go for something like AutoGlym Super Resin Polish. This is a filler polish and, if applied correctly and using a couple of coats, will fill in any swirl scratches to an acceptable level.
Then, go over the whole car with a suitable sealer. Something like LimeShine, or AutoGlym Extra Gloss Protection is fine. Follow the instructions and leave for @ least 30 minutes before removing. Then start on the waxes. Find something you like. I would probably say something like Meguiars Stage 3 Caranuba Wax, Poorboys World Nattys Paste Wax or similar. Apply a couple of coats 24 hours apart and you should be fine.
Use a decent trim dressing on all plastic unpainted parts, something like AutoGlym Vinyl and Rubber Care or AutoGlym Bumper Care are good ones. Stay away from silicone-filled tyre shines. It does not last, it does fly off over the paint and it does attract dirt.
I have suggested mainly AutoGlym stuff in this instance as obviously you are trying to do this cheap, and these products can be found in most places.
To give you an example of how it can look @ the end:
1992 Sierra with original paint
22 year old Cabriolet (sprayed in 2003)
19 year old 2000e
Paint renovator is basically an abrasive compound which eventually will wear through paintwork. AG Paint Renovator is next to useless.
If it were me, I would do the following:
Wash the car using a wash-mitt and the 2-bucket method.
full clay over the whole car.
Wash the car again (just water is fine).
Assess what "damage" is on the paint, scratches, swirls, etc. If bad, you may need to get someone to machine polish the car with some appropriate compounds. This is not actually that expensive. Again, look on www.detailingworld.com for more information.
If the scratches, etc. are not that bad, go for something like AutoGlym Super Resin Polish. This is a filler polish and, if applied correctly and using a couple of coats, will fill in any swirl scratches to an acceptable level.
Then, go over the whole car with a suitable sealer. Something like LimeShine, or AutoGlym Extra Gloss Protection is fine. Follow the instructions and leave for @ least 30 minutes before removing. Then start on the waxes. Find something you like. I would probably say something like Meguiars Stage 3 Caranuba Wax, Poorboys World Nattys Paste Wax or similar. Apply a couple of coats 24 hours apart and you should be fine.
Use a decent trim dressing on all plastic unpainted parts, something like AutoGlym Vinyl and Rubber Care or AutoGlym Bumper Care are good ones. Stay away from silicone-filled tyre shines. It does not last, it does fly off over the paint and it does attract dirt.
I have suggested mainly AutoGlym stuff in this instance as obviously you are trying to do this cheap, and these products can be found in most places.
To give you an example of how it can look @ the end:
1992 Sierra with original paint
22 year old Cabriolet (sprayed in 2003)
19 year old 2000e
Okay, couple of pointers here: you should put a sealer on before a wax. Sealers generally do not like adhering to waxes so the first time you get it wet, the sealer is gone.
Paint renovator is basically an abrasive compound which eventually will wear through paintwork. AG Paint Renovator is next to useless.
If it were me, I would do the following:
Wash the car using a wash-mitt and the 2-bucket method.
full clay over the whole car.
Wash the car again (just water is fine).
Assess what "damage" is on the paint, scratches, swirls, etc. If bad, you may need to get someone to machine polish the car with some appropriate compounds. This is not actually that expensive. Again, look on www.detailingworld.com for more information.
If the scratches, etc. are not that bad, go for something like AutoGlym Super Resin Polish. This is a filler polish and, if applied correctly and using a couple of coats, will fill in any swirl scratches to an acceptable level.
Then, go over the whole car with a suitable sealer. Something like LimeShine, or AutoGlym Extra Gloss Protection is fine. Follow the instructions and leave for @ least 30 minutes before removing. Then start on the waxes. Find something you like. I would probably say something like Meguiars Stage 3 Caranuba Wax, Poorboys World Nattys Paste Wax or similar. Apply a couple of coats 24 hours apart and you should be fine.
Use a decent trim dressing on all plastic unpainted parts, something like AutoGlym Vinyl and Rubber Care or AutoGlym Bumper Care are good ones. Stay away from silicone-filled tyre shines. It does not last, it does fly off over the paint and it does attract dirt.
I have suggested mainly AutoGlym stuff in this instance as obviously you are trying to do this cheap, and these products can be found in most places.
To give you an example of how it can look @ the end:
1992 Sierra with original paint
22 year old Cabriolet (sprayed in 2003)
19 year old 2000e
Paint renovator is basically an abrasive compound which eventually will wear through paintwork. AG Paint Renovator is next to useless.
If it were me, I would do the following:
Wash the car using a wash-mitt and the 2-bucket method.
full clay over the whole car.
Wash the car again (just water is fine).
Assess what "damage" is on the paint, scratches, swirls, etc. If bad, you may need to get someone to machine polish the car with some appropriate compounds. This is not actually that expensive. Again, look on www.detailingworld.com for more information.
If the scratches, etc. are not that bad, go for something like AutoGlym Super Resin Polish. This is a filler polish and, if applied correctly and using a couple of coats, will fill in any swirl scratches to an acceptable level.
Then, go over the whole car with a suitable sealer. Something like LimeShine, or AutoGlym Extra Gloss Protection is fine. Follow the instructions and leave for @ least 30 minutes before removing. Then start on the waxes. Find something you like. I would probably say something like Meguiars Stage 3 Caranuba Wax, Poorboys World Nattys Paste Wax or similar. Apply a couple of coats 24 hours apart and you should be fine.
Use a decent trim dressing on all plastic unpainted parts, something like AutoGlym Vinyl and Rubber Care or AutoGlym Bumper Care are good ones. Stay away from silicone-filled tyre shines. It does not last, it does fly off over the paint and it does attract dirt.
I have suggested mainly AutoGlym stuff in this instance as obviously you are trying to do this cheap, and these products can be found in most places.
To give you an example of how it can look @ the end:
1992 Sierra with original paint
22 year old Cabriolet (sprayed in 2003)
19 year old 2000e
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OCD Victim
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 2,096
Likes: 29
From: SE London
Which forum?
@ Jonnyrsturbo: you like then?
@ steve069: the pictures are just an example of how you can get the car. I know of cars that put these to shame, you just need to remember that the best outcomes is gained by spending the most time and dedication to the preparation process.
@ Jonnyrsturbo: you like then?
@ steve069: the pictures are just an example of how you can get the car. I know of cars that put these to shame, you just need to remember that the best outcomes is gained by spending the most time and dedication to the preparation process.
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