Best Set up.....
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From: In the Plough,probabley havin a Guinness!!
Best Set up.....
Ok,in probabley going to hve that FRST i was on about a few weeks ago... But as its been 6years since i owned a RS Turbo,ive sort of forgot whats what etc etc
Ok.... I dont wanna run "stupid power out of it.. Its oing to be a 2nd car,and is only going ot be abit of fun on a week end....
Im going to rebuild the top end,as it hasnt run for 18months,
So...........
Best head gasket,
Plugs,
Oil???
Then... When its running...
Best set up?? Its more or less standard,bar a Scorpion..It "might" have a cam,i dont know yet,and ive been told its got a "chipped" ECU.....THATS IT... Il probabley chuck a airfilter on,but anything else they need????
Any info,will be GREATFULLY recieved....
Just a quickey,do they have breather probs like ERST`s? As i got a bailey breather set up for my old 1,and is it worth doin anything to the head?or just a light skim,abd valve stem seals??
Pete.....
Ok.... I dont wanna run "stupid power out of it.. Its oing to be a 2nd car,and is only going ot be abit of fun on a week end....
Im going to rebuild the top end,as it hasnt run for 18months,
So...........
Best head gasket,
Plugs,
Oil???
Then... When its running...
Best set up?? Its more or less standard,bar a Scorpion..It "might" have a cam,i dont know yet,and ive been told its got a "chipped" ECU.....THATS IT... Il probabley chuck a airfilter on,but anything else they need????
Any info,will be GREATFULLY recieved....
Just a quickey,do they have breather probs like ERST`s? As i got a bailey breather set up for my old 1,and is it worth doin anything to the head?or just a light skim,abd valve stem seals??
Pete.....
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From: SUTTON IN ASHFIELD
Originally Posted by warleydaddy
What uo with the coolers then??
Whats best to go for after market????
Pete...
Whats best to go for after market????
Pete...
Off the top of my head you want,
195 chip,
Beige injectors,
escort t3 turbo and manifold,
Uprated intercooler
I think that should see you good reliable power tbh oh and if you haven't already got them get a decent suspension kit these are cracking little cars with good power / suspension,
Get a thread up in resto section
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Posts: 7,697
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From: 2nd worst town
Originally Posted by (GRANT)
escort t3 turbo and manifold,
Let's face it top speed it's nothing special but 0-60 it's sweet with the t2.
And save's having to move the rad and other shit.
Each to there own and all that
But i must admit the t2 does do it justice on the road
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From: Biggin Hill, Kent
personally the genuine standard ford gaskets are the best, was speaking to the bloke at power engineering and he said he has had a escort turbo running 230bhp with genuine ford standard headgasket and he had never had problems, plugs just a decent set no cheap stuff! i use 10-40w as i think it gives better protection than the recommended 5-40w
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From: isle of wight (K.O.P 2006 mother fucker!)
Re: Best Set up.....
Originally Posted by warleydaddy
Ok,in probabley going to hve that FRST i was on about a few weeks ago... But as its been 6years since i owned a RS Turbo,ive sort of forgot whats what etc etc
Ok.... I dont wanna run "stupid power out of it.. Its oing to be a 2nd car,and is only going ot be abit of fun on a week end....
Im going to rebuild the top end,as it hasnt run for 18months,
So...........
Best head gasket,
Plugs,
Oil???
Then... When its running...
Best set up?? Its more or less standard,bar a Scorpion..It "might" have a cam,i dont know yet,and ive been told its got a "chipped" ECU.....THATS IT... Il probabley chuck a airfilter on,but anything else they need????
Any info,will be GREATFULLY recieved....
Just a quickey,do they have breather probs like ERST`s? As i got a bailey breather set up for my old 1,and is it worth doin anything to the head?or just a light skim,abd valve stem seals??
Pete.....
Ok.... I dont wanna run "stupid power out of it.. Its oing to be a 2nd car,and is only going ot be abit of fun on a week end....
Im going to rebuild the top end,as it hasnt run for 18months,
So...........
Best head gasket,
Plugs,
Oil???
Then... When its running...
Best set up?? Its more or less standard,bar a Scorpion..It "might" have a cam,i dont know yet,and ive been told its got a "chipped" ECU.....THATS IT... Il probabley chuck a airfilter on,but anything else they need????
Any info,will be GREATFULLY recieved....
Just a quickey,do they have breather probs like ERST`s? As i got a bailey breather set up for my old 1,and is it worth doin anything to the head?or just a light skim,abd valve stem seals??
Pete.....
best head gasket is gen ford rst one
plugs, ive found NGK to be better
oil i use comma fully synthetic 10w40, theres better make stuff/more expensive stuff but it does the same so i dont get it.
set up, the std cam is fine for incressed powr, depending on what ya going for, for the phase one set up (195) the std cam will do, if its ok, if its got wear then bung in a kent CVH35 (i dont like piper cams)
chip, what ever really, i run a super chip, it does me but would like to change it.
beige 701 injectors, escort cosworth fuel pump, upreated actuator and if you really want a up reated intercooler, i use a pace one and its fine, i dont really like the front mounted stuff as its not worth it for the phase 1 set up.
bigger power go for a T3, if you do this is where most fit a front mounted cooler.
as for breather system, if not messed with its fine, some people say a bailey breather pot helps, some dont, i tried one and it didnt run right so i put std one baxck on, and provided the std breather pot is clean and not blocked it will be fine, but a new one will prob be needed TBH as you cannot clean them out, and dont fit a xr2i one as it is different.
as for skimming the head, if the compression is ok, leave alone, if the head does come off, check it for flatness, if it dont need a skim dont skim it, some people say a alloy head needs skiming everytime it comes off, this isnt true.
stem seals, easy to do, and it would hurt it for them to be changed for what little it cost.
oh, and as for air filter, a up rated panle filter for the air box, or a induction kit is fine, it doesnt upset anything really, it may run different with a induction kit on to start with but it will sort it self, thats if you get any problems at all.
1 thing i should say, the FRST and xr2is too, suffer from a relay problem, the green igintion relay gets hot, sometimes it can melt the part of the fuse box it clips into, not fully melt it, but make it so the conections move about, and the pins on the relay soot up and things stop working, for exampole, the reverse light, heater fan and rad fan, boot pop, it wont start and a couple more, these problems are all to do with the green relay, and 9 times out of 10 a clean up of the pins of the relay sorts the problems, some times though the relay has to be replaced, but there easy enough to get a pocket full when ya at the scrappy
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From: Biggin Hill, Kent
Originally Posted by mrjenrst
Originally Posted by robertthorpe
i use 10-40w as i think it gives better protection than the recommended 5-40w
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From: isle of wight (K.O.P 2006 mother fucker!)
taken from a post on fiestaturbo.com
Originally Posted by oilman
I read on many forums about 0w and 5w oils being too thin.
0w-40, 5w-40, 10w-40 and 15w-40 are all the same thickness (14 centistokes) at 100degC.
Centistokes (cst) is the measure of a fluid's resistance to flow (viscosity). It is calculated in terms of the time required for a standard quantity of fluid at a certain temperature to flow through a standard orifice. The higher the value, the more viscous the fluid.
As viscosity varies with temperature, the value is meaningless unless accompanied by the temperature at which it is measured. In the case of oils, viscosity is generally reported in centistokes (cst) and usually measured at 40degC and 100degC.
So, all oils that end in 40 (sae 40) are around 14cst thickness at 100degC.
This applies to all oils that end in the same number, all oils that end in 50 (sae 50) are around 18.5cst at 100degC and all oils that end in 60 (sae 60) are around 24cst at 100degC.
With me so far?
Great!
Now, ALL oils are thicker when cold. Confused? It's true and here is a table to illustrate this.
SAE 40 (straight 40)
Temp degC.........................Viscosity (thickness)
0..........................................2579cst
20..........................................473cst
40..........................................135cst
60..........................................52.2cs t
100........................................ 14cst
120.........................................8.8cst
As you will see, there is plenty of viscosity at 0degC, in fact many times more than at 100degC and this is the problem especially in cold weather, can the oil flow quick enough to protect vital engine parts at start up. Not really!
So, given that an sae 40 is 14cst at 100degC which is adequate viscosity to protect the engine, and much thicker when cold, how can a 0w oil be too thin?
Well, it can't is the truth.
The clever part (thanks to synthetics) is that thin base oils can be used so that start up viscosity (on say a 5w-40 at 0degC) is reduced to around 800cst and this obviously gives much better flow than a monograde sae 40 (2579cst as quoted above).
So, how does this happen, well as explained at the beginning, it's all about temperature, yes a thin base oil is still thicker when cold than at 100degC but the clever stuff (due to synthetics again) is that the chemists are able to build these oils out of molecules that do not thin to less than 14cst at 100degC!
What are the parameters for our recommendations?
Well, we always talk about good cold start protection, by this we mean flow so a 5w will flow better than a 10w and so on. This is why we recommend 5w or 10w as the thickest you want to use except in exceptional circumstances. Flow is critical to protect the engine from wear!
We also talk about oil temps, mods and what the car is used for. This is related to the second number xw-(XX) as there may be issues with oil temperatures causing the oil to be too thin and therefore the possibility of metal to metal contact.
This is difficult to explain but, if for example your oil temp does not exceed 120degC at any time then a good "shear stable" sae 40 is perfectly capable of giving protection.
"Shear stability" is important here because if the oil shears it thins and that's not good!
However, if you are seeing temperatures in excess of 120degC due to mods and track use etc then there is a strong argument to using an sae 50 as it will have more viscosity at these excessive temperatures.
There are trade offs here. Thicker oils cause more friction and therefore more heat and they waste power and affect fuel consumption so it's always best to use the thinnest oil (i.e. second number) that you can get away with and still maintain oil pressure.
I hope this helps explain a bit.
Cheers
Guy.
0w-40, 5w-40, 10w-40 and 15w-40 are all the same thickness (14 centistokes) at 100degC.
Centistokes (cst) is the measure of a fluid's resistance to flow (viscosity). It is calculated in terms of the time required for a standard quantity of fluid at a certain temperature to flow through a standard orifice. The higher the value, the more viscous the fluid.
As viscosity varies with temperature, the value is meaningless unless accompanied by the temperature at which it is measured. In the case of oils, viscosity is generally reported in centistokes (cst) and usually measured at 40degC and 100degC.
So, all oils that end in 40 (sae 40) are around 14cst thickness at 100degC.
This applies to all oils that end in the same number, all oils that end in 50 (sae 50) are around 18.5cst at 100degC and all oils that end in 60 (sae 60) are around 24cst at 100degC.
With me so far?
Great!
Now, ALL oils are thicker when cold. Confused? It's true and here is a table to illustrate this.
SAE 40 (straight 40)
Temp degC.........................Viscosity (thickness)
0..........................................2579cst
20..........................................473cst
40..........................................135cst
60..........................................52.2cs t
100........................................ 14cst
120.........................................8.8cst
As you will see, there is plenty of viscosity at 0degC, in fact many times more than at 100degC and this is the problem especially in cold weather, can the oil flow quick enough to protect vital engine parts at start up. Not really!
So, given that an sae 40 is 14cst at 100degC which is adequate viscosity to protect the engine, and much thicker when cold, how can a 0w oil be too thin?
Well, it can't is the truth.
The clever part (thanks to synthetics) is that thin base oils can be used so that start up viscosity (on say a 5w-40 at 0degC) is reduced to around 800cst and this obviously gives much better flow than a monograde sae 40 (2579cst as quoted above).
So, how does this happen, well as explained at the beginning, it's all about temperature, yes a thin base oil is still thicker when cold than at 100degC but the clever stuff (due to synthetics again) is that the chemists are able to build these oils out of molecules that do not thin to less than 14cst at 100degC!
What are the parameters for our recommendations?
Well, we always talk about good cold start protection, by this we mean flow so a 5w will flow better than a 10w and so on. This is why we recommend 5w or 10w as the thickest you want to use except in exceptional circumstances. Flow is critical to protect the engine from wear!
We also talk about oil temps, mods and what the car is used for. This is related to the second number xw-(XX) as there may be issues with oil temperatures causing the oil to be too thin and therefore the possibility of metal to metal contact.
This is difficult to explain but, if for example your oil temp does not exceed 120degC at any time then a good "shear stable" sae 40 is perfectly capable of giving protection.
"Shear stability" is important here because if the oil shears it thins and that's not good!
However, if you are seeing temperatures in excess of 120degC due to mods and track use etc then there is a strong argument to using an sae 50 as it will have more viscosity at these excessive temperatures.
There are trade offs here. Thicker oils cause more friction and therefore more heat and they waste power and affect fuel consumption so it's always best to use the thinnest oil (i.e. second number) that you can get away with and still maintain oil pressure.
I hope this helps explain a bit.
Cheers
Guy.
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Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 258
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From: wrexham
Re: Best Set up.....
1 thing i should say, the FRST and xr2is too, suffer from a relay problem, the green igintion relay gets hot, sometimes it can melt the part of the fuse box it clips into, not fully melt it, but make it so the conections move about, and the pins on the relay soot up and things stop working, for exampole, the reverse light, heater fan and rad fan, boot pop, it wont start and a couple more, these problems are all to do with the green relay, and 9 times out of 10 a clean up of the pins of the relay sorts the problems, some times though the relay has to be replaced, but there easy enough to get a pocket full when ya at the scrappy [/quote]
CHEERS JAY that will be the answer to all my fookin problems 
shame ya didnt mention it before
[/quote]CHEERS JAY
that will be the answer to all my fookin problems shame ya didnt mention it before
Regular Contributor
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 258
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From: wrexham
heads been skimmed ,got all my bits-just need 2 change inlet gasket as it dont seem right and then off for the rebuild
just gotta get the block out now and remove the snapped bolts then get painting before it goes back in
,got all my bits-just need 2 change inlet gasket as it dont seem right and then off for the rebuildjust gotta get the block out now and remove the snapped bolts then get painting before it goes back in
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