brake fluid recomendations
As i have cooked my brakes at donnington last week ,i will be changing the fluid .I was wondering if there is anything on the market more geared to track day /race car spec than the normal .whatever???
Any help appreciated
Any help appreciated
Castrol SRF - fit and forget
. It's wet boiling point (270°C
!) is higher than that of most 5.1s DRY boiling point
. Downside is, it's expensive - BUT it does not need changing as often, so works out no more expensive in the long term
. My SRF has now been in the car for 5 years and I have had no problems, although I think I really should change it now
.
See issue 254 of Fast Ford for full details
. Just do a Google search for brake fluids, compare the wet and dry boiling points and you will see for yourself that NONE come close to matching Castrol SRF
.
. It's wet boiling point (270°C
!) is higher than that of most 5.1s DRY boiling point
. Downside is, it's expensive - BUT it does not need changing as often, so works out no more expensive in the long term
. My SRF has now been in the car for 5 years and I have had no problems, although I think I really should change it now
.See issue 254 of Fast Ford for full details
Originally Posted by Andreas
What about Motul RBF600, almost as good as Castrol (216 wet) but at a fraction of its price.
Originally Posted by Fast Guy
It also has a higher dry boiling point than the SRF
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Originally Posted by Fast Guy
Originally Posted by Andreas
What about Motul RBF600, almost as good as Castrol (216 wet) but at a fraction of its price.
Originally Posted by Fast Guy
Seems a bit expensive though. I pay about Ł20 over here for the same items ie 3x500ml. But that was last year, perhaps the price has gone up?
Originally Posted by Fast Guy
Originally Posted by Andreas
What about Motul RBF600, almost as good as Castrol (216 wet) but at a fraction of its price.
Originally Posted by Fast Guy
It also has a higher dry boiling point than the SRF


The fact that it has a dry boiling point 6 deg higher than the Castrol is immaterial, its the fact that when it starts to absorb water (which it does as soon as you fit it
.As I said, there is NOTHING that compares to Castrol on the market at the moment.
Mike, check my edited post. I looked the Motul figures up and edited the post 4 min after the original post. But I was too slow as some had already quoted it. 
I thought they were pretty similar but as my edited post says it differs about 60 degrees at the wet point. Im not saying its the best but its good value for money. A lot of track day ppl use it over here with good results.
I guess it all comes down to how much and hard you track your car. I only go a couple of times a year so for me SRF feels like a waste of money. If I got as much Ring Action as you (God forbid
) im shure I would use SRF too.
I thought they were pretty similar but as my edited post says it differs about 60 degrees at the wet point. Im not saying its the best but its good value for money. A lot of track day ppl use it over here with good results.
I guess it all comes down to how much and hard you track your car. I only go a couple of times a year so for me SRF feels like a waste of money. If I got as much Ring Action as you (God forbid
) im shure I would use SRF too.
please bear in mind if changing from one type of fluid to another you must use sufficient to completely bleed through your old stuff.
on the subject I've found halfrauds DOT 5.1 good for fast road use @ Ł20 a litre its nearly as cheap as dot 4
on the subject I've found halfrauds DOT 5.1 good for fast road use @ Ł20 a litre its nearly as cheap as dot 4
Originally Posted by the youth
Originally Posted by COS 22
how much does a cossie need to fill the system from empty ??
steve
To do a full change and bleed it all the way through, you would need just over a litre
Originally Posted by Andreas
Mike, check my edited post. I looked the Motul figures up and edited the post 4 min after the original post. But I was too slow as some had already quoted it. 
I thought they were pretty similar but as my edited post says it differs about 60 degrees at the wet point. Im not saying its the best but its good value for money. A lot of track day ppl use it over here with good results.
I guess it all comes down to how much and hard you track your car. I only go a couple of times a year so for me SRF feels like a waste of money. If I got as much Ring Action as you (God forbid
) im shure I would use SRF too. 
I thought they were pretty similar but as my edited post says it differs about 60 degrees at the wet point. Im not saying its the best but its good value for money. A lot of track day ppl use it over here with good results.
I guess it all comes down to how much and hard you track your car. I only go a couple of times a year so for me SRF feels like a waste of money. If I got as much Ring Action as you (God forbid
) im shure I would use SRF too. 
But that is false economy, as the SRF can be used for much longer due to it's superior wet boiling point, so when you have changed your Ł20 a litre fluid twice (or even THREE times), the Castrol SRF user could still be on the same fluid and STILL have a better boiling point
.
if you are changing brake fluid, i thoroughly recomend that you strip down your calipers at the same time and completely remove the old fluid.
it tends to collect old fluid behind the pistons that does not get bled out easily, and that fluid will be very wet if it's been in there a long time - and that is the most important place to not have wet brake fluid as it is where it will see the most heat
a good opportunity to check the seals and piston condition, and any sliders, pins etc can be cleaned up and greased to make sure that even brake performance is achieved on both sides of the disc to get the most out of your brakes
it tends to collect old fluid behind the pistons that does not get bled out easily, and that fluid will be very wet if it's been in there a long time - and that is the most important place to not have wet brake fluid as it is where it will see the most heat
a good opportunity to check the seals and piston condition, and any sliders, pins etc can be cleaned up and greased to make sure that even brake performance is achieved on both sides of the disc to get the most out of your brakes
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