Standard camshaft
i would go by the stat's, as i bet the power will peak @ 5500 - 6000 rpm, and wont rev past 6500 rpm.
But a std shaft will rev to 6300+rpm ok, as long as springs, followers and cam in good working order.
You can get new cams and followers from a motor factor for about £100.
Which seems to be a common thing at the moment,
But a std shaft will rev to 6300+rpm ok, as long as springs, followers and cam in good working order.
You can get new cams and followers from a motor factor for about £100.
Which seems to be a common thing at the moment,
Is a cam/cam kit from a motor factors as good as a genuine ford item? are ford much dearer? Im needing a new cam but cant afford a newman (which is what i'd want) so next best thing for me is std ford! (which im told is still a good cam!)
So you guys are buying standard camshaft before kentcams? Are standard better in power?
I have read that turbo standard cams are not very powerfull, much because the turbo pressure the air into the engine. Therefore they dont need powefull cams.
I know that the cams from Kent and piper are not the best quality but doesent they give more power?
Mvh Butchi
I have read that turbo standard cams are not very powerfull, much because the turbo pressure the air into the engine. Therefore they dont need powefull cams.
I know that the cams from Kent and piper are not the best quality but doesent they give more power?
Mvh Butchi
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I'd like to ask another question. What happens if I stick an uprated N/A camshaft into a turbo engine? Will it loose all its torque and be awful to drive but create a lot of top end power? Or will there even be a general power loss?
Edit: I'm talking about something in the region of 285°, 2000 - 7000 power band.
Edit: I'm talking about something in the region of 285°, 2000 - 7000 power band.
fords cams will be the same as the motorfactors ones now as they wont hold any 'proper genuine' ones anymore, found this out when i had to get lifters and had to return them as they are not the same quality as 5-6 years ago!!
Kents or a piper cam will produce better power, but only while they are new and un worn.
The problem is the material of the lifter is crap, (as they buy cheap items) so the cam has to be the same material, to stop one killing the other fast.
But what you get is a cam and follower that are not very robust, and mixed with the CVH, they dont last long at all if its not run in correctly, and used with clean good semi oil, and as long as oil pressure/supplie to the head is good.
The reason they wear alot faster than std cam's, is due to the more stress produced by the higher lift and stronger valve springs.
The only after market cam worth buying at the Moment is a Newman's, as they have the CVH market cornered at the moment, with there solid lifter profiles, (Their hydrolic has the same issue's as Kent and piper), This is because their solid lifters are made to thier spec, in a Chilled Cast material, which allows the cam to made in the same material which is alot more robust material, which last's fine in a CVH.
Also dont forget, alot of people go to a new Kent or Piper cams from a 100 k mile old cam, so are comparing a worn std cam against a fresh after market cam.
If you do the same test, with a worn std cam, against a new pattern part cam, you will see good results too.
As for using a N/A cam, it wont be worth it, as that wont work at all well with a Turbo car.
The problem is the material of the lifter is crap, (as they buy cheap items) so the cam has to be the same material, to stop one killing the other fast.
But what you get is a cam and follower that are not very robust, and mixed with the CVH, they dont last long at all if its not run in correctly, and used with clean good semi oil, and as long as oil pressure/supplie to the head is good.
The reason they wear alot faster than std cam's, is due to the more stress produced by the higher lift and stronger valve springs.
The only after market cam worth buying at the Moment is a Newman's, as they have the CVH market cornered at the moment, with there solid lifter profiles, (Their hydrolic has the same issue's as Kent and piper), This is because their solid lifters are made to thier spec, in a Chilled Cast material, which allows the cam to made in the same material which is alot more robust material, which last's fine in a CVH.
Also dont forget, alot of people go to a new Kent or Piper cams from a 100 k mile old cam, so are comparing a worn std cam against a fresh after market cam.
If you do the same test, with a worn std cam, against a new pattern part cam, you will see good results too.
As for using a N/A cam, it wont be worth it, as that wont work at all well with a Turbo car.
As Dan.
I simply will not buy Kent or piper, as it is 250 pounds for something which simply will not last. THe motorfactor cams i have been using jabe been holding up very well. £80 should get u a new cam and followers. I am on a big turbo and big head, so the std profile is quite suited, it sits at 6800rpm no problem - it will go higher i think, but the engine isnt mapped above there yet - although this will be happeneing very soon.
My plan is to goto Newman eventually - they are proven to be the most reliable.long lasting. They are made of a chilled cast - no other cvh cam is - they must be used with newmans own lifters, as any others will fail. The downside is that it is a solid lifter cam, which require many many hours for initial setting up, and will be constantly noisier than the equiv hydraulic profile - which should be silent. Although the wear is minimal, some will occur, and hence the valve clerances should be checked a minimum of every 6 months, possibly more. When i get one in my car, it will be a true test as the car covers a lot of mileage - we will see just how practical they are.
The reason i haven't got one yet: You are looking at well over £300 for everything. The engine is still being developed, and power is increasing with the std motorfactor cam in place. Once i can get no more from the std cam, then i will try the newman. For now, the std item provides a very responsive item.
If you want more power, then i would goto a bigger turbo and keep the std cam. You will gain more power, with increased reliability due to the lower temperatures a larger turbo brings.
I simply will not buy Kent or piper, as it is 250 pounds for something which simply will not last. THe motorfactor cams i have been using jabe been holding up very well. £80 should get u a new cam and followers. I am on a big turbo and big head, so the std profile is quite suited, it sits at 6800rpm no problem - it will go higher i think, but the engine isnt mapped above there yet - although this will be happeneing very soon.
My plan is to goto Newman eventually - they are proven to be the most reliable.long lasting. They are made of a chilled cast - no other cvh cam is - they must be used with newmans own lifters, as any others will fail. The downside is that it is a solid lifter cam, which require many many hours for initial setting up, and will be constantly noisier than the equiv hydraulic profile - which should be silent. Although the wear is minimal, some will occur, and hence the valve clerances should be checked a minimum of every 6 months, possibly more. When i get one in my car, it will be a true test as the car covers a lot of mileage - we will see just how practical they are.
The reason i haven't got one yet: You are looking at well over £300 for everything. The engine is still being developed, and power is increasing with the std motorfactor cam in place. Once i can get no more from the std cam, then i will try the newman. For now, the std item provides a very responsive item.
If you want more power, then i would goto a bigger turbo and keep the std cam. You will gain more power, with increased reliability due to the lower temperatures a larger turbo brings.
I did speak to Del at Kent Cams the other week.
and i asked why dont he (Kent) develop a proper chilled cast cam and follower, but he didn't seem intrested, as they still sell lots of CVH cams, mainly 34 and 35's.
And that he hasnt heard people complaining about there CVH cams,
Which i said, you should speek to Tunest that fit, test and remove the cams after a while to check wear, (Not the mail order firms he supplie's), as he would get a different view.
i have had a a few Kent CVH cams,
a cvh 22, which was ok,
2 x 35's, 1 snapped, due to a rocker failure, and tappet jammed between the head and the cam. the other one was in my car for 25k miles and was in good working order when i replaced it with a 36 cam.
1x 36 cam, noisey from new, and killed it self after 3-4 k miles, (but when i removed and checked at 1500 miles, it was fine)
I also told him that Newmans have cornered the market.
and i asked why dont he (Kent) develop a proper chilled cast cam and follower, but he didn't seem intrested, as they still sell lots of CVH cams, mainly 34 and 35's.
And that he hasnt heard people complaining about there CVH cams,
Which i said, you should speek to Tunest that fit, test and remove the cams after a while to check wear, (Not the mail order firms he supplie's), as he would get a different view.
i have had a a few Kent CVH cams,
a cvh 22, which was ok,
2 x 35's, 1 snapped, due to a rocker failure, and tappet jammed between the head and the cam. the other one was in my car for 25k miles and was in good working order when i replaced it with a 36 cam.
1x 36 cam, noisey from new, and killed it self after 3-4 k miles, (but when i removed and checked at 1500 miles, it was fine)
I also told him that Newmans have cornered the market.
i'm working on a S1 rst at the moment,
and he had a T2 piper cam in it, only fitted 300 miles previous, and that had completely chewed itself to death.
and now he's go a new pattern part cam and followers, (he paid £110 for them, but i would of got it for £20+ ish less if he brought it thro me)
and he had a T2 piper cam in it, only fitted 300 miles previous, and that had completely chewed itself to death.
and now he's go a new pattern part cam and followers, (he paid £110 for them, but i would of got it for £20+ ish less if he brought it thro me)
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