Fitted my R&B shims this week. Just want to make sure I fitted them correctly.

I cut each shim in half and put each half between the bearing housing and the back plate, held in by the two bolts nearest to the rear bumper. ie on looking at the bearing housing there are 4 bolts. One half of the shim threaded onto the top rear bolt and the other half on the bottom rear bolt?

I'm sure i've done it right but just wanted to make sure.

I can't see how this will stop the scrubbing of the inner edge of the rear tyres though. The camber angle is still the same so won't the tyre still be running more on this inner edge?

Cheers.

 

i think they should go in the top 2 bolts

 

Thats what I would have thought to push the top of the wheel out and reduce the camber but reading the instructions it definately says the two bolts nearest the rear bumper. It appears the shims reduce the toe-out that you get under acceleration as opposed to changing the camber angle.

Can someone confirm this?

Cheers.

 

when i fitted mine it didn't appear to make much of a difference but compared to before tyres last longer....

 

Cheers. Does it sounds like i've fitted them the same way you did?

 

Never fitted them myself,but as you say they are not designed to alter camber,just toe

PM Mike R if you not sure

 

indeed, they're to compensate on the toe out, which happens if you lower your cossie. Can't anything about that besides shims or adjustable rearbeam to correct. I also have those shims, but i've got also camber correction shims made up a while ago. (just haven't found the time to put them in place, (had some Amsterdam-Dakar challenge things to do )) At the moment the rear has 2degrees camber, after shimming it´ll be between 0 and 0,5 camber. When about to fit those, the solid rear beammount, along with the solid diffhanger will in placement aswell.
Should improve the rear-end quite a bit on track
cheers

 

yep...

 

Cheers chaps, just wanted to make sure

 

yes you have put them in correctly

if you want to adjust the camber issues you casn always try and fit another set to the upper 2 bolts

i did this years and years and years ago with my 3 door and never actually understood how it afected different angles and all that until i started to hear about people measuring stuff up and fitting them

everyone said i was going to kill the bearings much quicker but i nenver had a problem in the 18 months i was running them and these bugger were about 3mm thick

 

Is there an optimum size then for these shims as Mikes are really thin pressed items but dojj you have some huge things in???
If I really lower the back of the car like slammed anything I can do to improve the tyre wear and grip levels? ie double up the shims Mike does or double them up and add one to the top front also? Any ideas?

 

Why will it knacker the bearings? Only thing I can think of is that the bearing housing is at a very slight angle to the face of the splash guard but can't see why this would knacker the bearings.

 

What do these ere shims look like then?? How much do they cost and will i notice owt for my money?

Stu.

 

My camber shims are similar made up as these pictures i've found a while back on this forum.
While ur at it, it's ofcourse possible in incorperate the toe correction aswell.
First get ur car a laser allignment readout, and machine the correctional angles on the the shims accordingly.



greets,
ps it's fitted on this car:

 

ahhh think I get it now....he cut them in half to save stripping down and removing the brakes and drive shafts when fitting them up. Cheers chap