THRASHING A CAR FROM COLD
i have always been under the impression that thrashing a car from cold is not good for the long serving life of your engine/ gearbox?
i always wait till the water up to temp and then again wait 4-5 miles more so therefore abotu 10 miles of under 2.5k before givin it a pastin.
whats everyones thoughts on this, anyone ever doen a test??
surely the oil is too thick to move aroudn the engine quick enuff when cold and could do premature wear???
thanks
carlos
i always wait till the water up to temp and then again wait 4-5 miles more so therefore abotu 10 miles of under 2.5k before givin it a pastin.
whats everyones thoughts on this, anyone ever doen a test??
surely the oil is too thick to move aroudn the engine quick enuff when cold and could do premature wear???
thanks
carlos
Theres no oil on the cams at first.
It cracks me up when people turn the key and go, but if they have never seen inside an engine what can the expect.
I always wait a couple mins before its moved then half way up the temp gauge.
My old polo was a different story though
It cracks me up when people turn the key and go, but if they have never seen inside an engine what can the expect.
I always wait a couple mins before its moved then half way up the temp gauge.
My old polo was a different story though
Trending Topics
yea so does my work van, but then again its not mine lol so.....
ive always thought bout the fact that a engine shouldnt be thrashed from cold coz at least wen a engine is up to temperature, components are warm and the material of it isnt as brittle once its warmer
ive always thought bout the fact that a engine shouldnt be thrashed from cold coz at least wen a engine is up to temperature, components are warm and the material of it isnt as brittle once its warmer
I've found that life I needed.. It's HERE!!
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,048
Likes: 0
From: Worcsetershire
Best way to get it upto temp is to keep reving it off the limiter
Seriously i always wait around 10 minuites minimum and then give it no
boost for a further 10 min and then give it full boost if needed
Seriously i always wait around 10 minuites minimum and then give it no
boost for a further 10 min and then give it full boost if needed
Originally Posted by Jim Galbally
richard, that logic makes no sense, as the cams are under the most load at IDLE 

Too many posts.. I need a life!!
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 611
Likes: 0
From: Chapelhall, near glasgow
my clio gets nailed from cold, every morning, but then its only a 1.2 8v
only 48k and its just turned 6years old,
when i get a cosworth ill be letting it warm up a bit before i move off,
only 48k and its just turned 6years old,
when i get a cosworth ill be letting it warm up a bit before i move off,
I leave me cossie warming up for a while, a couple of songs thru the stereo is usually long enough
works turbo diesel van is abused from cold, and straight onto an A road, so upto 70mph n not even warm yet
works turbo diesel van is abused from cold, and straight onto an A road, so upto 70mph n not even warm yet
I've found that life I needed.. It's HERE!!
iTrader: (2)
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 1,240
Likes: 6
From: the land of oz slough
i wait until my oil pressure gauge drops to 25psi at idle, because even when the water up to temp the oil has'nt dropped to its best operating pressure.. and its best to drive off then to leave the car idling
I used to own a 2.9 4x4 sierra and I used to thrash that from cold every morning.
After only a few months of owning it the car needed a new camshaft because one or two of the lobes had been worn away, this was blamed on me hammering the car hard from cold every single morning
With my new cam in I used to run it up to temp and never had another problem and the same with the 2.9 I had after that.
I always now run my own cars up to temp before nailing them, just because the water is up to temp doesn't mean the oil is though.
My company car gets given death from cold though
After only a few months of owning it the car needed a new camshaft because one or two of the lobes had been worn away, this was blamed on me hammering the car hard from cold every single morning
I always now run my own cars up to temp before nailing them, just because the water is up to temp doesn't mean the oil is though.
My company car gets given death from cold though
I've found that life I needed.. It's HERE!!
iTrader: (2)
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 1,240
Likes: 6
From: the land of oz slough
Originally Posted by PeterLucas
Surely its better to let everything expand that wee bit with the heat as well (eg - you only get piston slap when cold...)
Or as bigad says bounce off rev limiter till warm
Or as bigad says bounce off rev limiter till warm

well i dont know about the yb but the cvh valve train is under alot of load at idle best to just drive.
if you nail it from cold naturally metal expands minutley when hot so it will always be under a certain amount of strain when cold, also most engine oils are now designed to work as efficiently from cold as when warm, but you got to take the first sentence into thought, imo it is always worth waiting at least 30 seconds to let it warm through first. then you got the rest of the car to think of ie tyres as mentioned and drive shafts gearbox and the like. it is recognised that it takes at least 25 miles of normal driving for the car to be at working temperature that is the whole of the drive train. so in a nut shell your oil will work from cold as it should unless you use asda shit, and the car will always not like a good thrashing cold, as earlier comment of cold brittle metal
I know when i had my ST170 Focus,the water temp was at normal working temp probably 10-15 mins befor my oil was,as the ST had an oil temp and water temp gauge it was quite clear to see this.
I pretty much abide by this for scooby as well,some scoob experts say in cold conditions it can take up to 10 miles before the transmission and difs are up to temp.
I pretty much abide by this for scooby as well,some scoob experts say in cold conditions it can take up to 10 miles before the transmission and difs are up to temp.
Originally Posted by turboboss
Originally Posted by PeterLucas
Surely its better to let everything expand that wee bit with the heat as well (eg - you only get piston slap when cold...)
Or as bigad says bounce off rev limiter till warm
Or as bigad says bounce off rev limiter till warm

well i dont know about the yb but the cvh valve train is under most load at idle
i just turn the key and drive,,,,, the people who leave there cars to idle for 10 mins are actually doing NOTHING but using fuel im afraid
i thrash the arse off my bmw when cold/hot/ raining anything tbh
dont expect it to last long but then i do really rag the shite out of it so its not gonna last long
i thrash the arse off my bmw when cold/hot/ raining anything tbh
dont expect it to last long but then i do really rag the shite out of it so its not gonna last long
Originally Posted by mk2rstaff
180 mate thats a bit high it should sit around 80 if i am correct????
If only Autometer made gauges that read in Celsius
Originally Posted by rabmc
when starting the cossie , leave it a few minutes yes but again take it easy until it heats up etc


Same here i leave mine in the garage for a few mins then drive it easy untill its warm
why leave it a few mins though,,,, i cant see why ?
i used to and stu at msd asked me why and said its a myth,,,, 30 seconds and then drive carefull
it might be due to cossie bearings wearing out is rare and melting tends to happen before OR spinning a shell when its being raped
i used to and stu at msd asked me why and said its a myth,,,, 30 seconds and then drive carefull
it might be due to cossie bearings wearing out is rare and melting tends to happen before OR spinning a shell when its being raped






