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what compression ratio cossie experts

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Old Sep 1, 2004 | 03:10 PM
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Default what compression ratio cossie experts

Guys my escort cossie curently has :-

standard head and cams
Low comp pistons
Standard crank and rods

can you tell me what the comp ratio will be ?

Also im looking at buying a L&B engine thats been used in a rally car, group A head gasket

do you think compression ratio will be the same ?

any info appreciated gents Glen
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Old Sep 1, 2004 | 03:14 PM
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A rally engine is around 9-1 comp..a proper one that is!

No idea your comp ratio i suggest calling Mystic Meg

*Humour please!
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Old Sep 1, 2004 | 03:15 PM
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yes, if you know exactly what pistons they are, deck heights,piston protrusion etc

Pugo
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Old Sep 1, 2004 | 03:16 PM
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yeh ok bud this is out a group N sapphy 4x4

what im angling at is will i need a remap by swapping them over

just that im 400 miles from MSD
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Old Sep 1, 2004 | 03:16 PM
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what phil is implying is that its impossible to know what CR your engine is...

...low comp pistons could mean anything, you need to know exactly what they are
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Old Sep 1, 2004 | 03:19 PM
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ah cool ok cheers Jim, thanks, that will be impossible to find out

dammit

il just have to pray, that it will run ok on this motor until i can get it checked out
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Old Sep 1, 2004 | 03:32 PM
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when the old block is removed, measure the deck height...

when the new block is refitted, measure the deck height...

if theyre the same... sorted

if theyre different it 100% will need a remap...

if the heigh is SHORTER (ie more space in combustion chamber) you SHOULD be able to get away with driving the car for a while

if the new ones are talled (ie less space in combustion chamber=higher CR) then it isnt advisable to drive the car i this state, DEFFINALTELY dont drive it at full chat/boost as it WILL det
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Old Sep 1, 2004 | 03:41 PM
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So he asks for 'experts' and he gets Jimbo and phillipa!!!!

although strangley Jim does seem to be talking some sense

Only joking chaps
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Old Sep 1, 2004 | 03:43 PM
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thats it lee, i'm not buying the teas now


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Old Sep 1, 2004 | 03:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Jim Galbally
when the old block is removed, measure the deck height...

when the new block is refitted, measure the deck height...

if theyre the same... sorted

if theyre different it 100% will need a remap...

if the heigh is SHORTER (ie more space in combustion chamber) you SHOULD be able to get away with driving the car for a while

if the new ones are talled (ie less space in combustion chamber=higher CR) then it isnt advisable to drive the car i this state, DEFFINALTELY dont drive it at full chat/boost as it WILL det
thanks Jim much appreciated,

sorry to be sounding stupid, but can you briefly explain where to measure

is the deck height, the depth of the cylinder head ?
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Old Sep 1, 2004 | 03:53 PM
  #11  
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put the engine at TDC (well, just make sure one of the pistons is as high as it can go)

and pour some liquid in there (i think people use parafin, cant remembe tho to be honest) till its completely full, then use a burette (sucker thingie you get ijnjections with) and measure how much liquid there is there

you can then use this information to work out the compression ratio of the engine

OR the quick easy way... use a ruler and measure how much space is left when the piston is at the very top.

TBH your tuner that fitting the engne should/will do this all for you, as even a stupid spannermonkey mechanic wouldnt be stupid enough to put an unknown spec engine back in a car without checking what it actually is! lol
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Old Sep 1, 2004 | 04:05 PM
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Mate, in Inverness you wouldnt believe it lol, there is no way they have the savvy to do that, the engine im getting is on standard compression buddy

just found out from the guy

Wonder if I fit water injection will I protect the motor for a few weeks until I can get down to msd, and il run it on optimax and octane booster
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Old Sep 1, 2004 | 05:06 PM
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Jimbo, are you taking into account the head in all of this?
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Old Sep 1, 2004 | 10:39 PM
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Originally Posted by bbigman2000
Mate, in Inverness you wouldnt believe it lol, there is no way they have the savvy to do that, the engine im getting is on standard compression buddy

just found out from the guy

Wonder if I fit water injection will I protect the motor for a few weeks until I can get down to MSD, and il run it on optimax and octane booster
LOL just realised the reason for you asking about water injection on the other thread I just posted on

No point in messing round with water injection, it needs to be mapped in really.......just drive it off boost (which aint too hard on a T4 ) until you can get to MSD & use Optimax or Esso Super Plus (which you should be doing all the time anyway!!!) & maybe some Nitrous Formula Octane Booster if you wanna be doubley safe
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Old Sep 1, 2004 | 10:50 PM
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LOL @ T4 comment mate if I remember il take my camera tmrw and take pics of the cracked block etc and the turbo, I wont be back until friday to show you though.

I guess im just gonna have to drive all the dam way to blackpool, bloody hell this is gonna be the death on me this car
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Old Sep 1, 2004 | 10:51 PM
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oh the joys of cossie ownership
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Old Sep 1, 2004 | 10:53 PM
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billabong, i was assuming he was using the original head on the new engine
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Old Sep 1, 2004 | 10:53 PM
  #18  
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lmfao yeh mate, if only I had had a couple months running out of it to rebuild the bank balance before this happened !!!!!!!!!
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Old Sep 1, 2004 | 10:59 PM
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billabong, i was assuming he was using the original head on the new engine

Depends if it's been skimmed (and head chamber HAS to be considered when measuring comp ratio) ........ took standard head to mean unported etc. not many completely untouched (in terms of skims etc) heads around thesedays.

bbigman2000 - cracke block - worse than you originally thought then?
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Old Sep 1, 2004 | 11:00 PM
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no but what i mean is if the head is removed from engine 1 and refitted to engine 2 then it hasn't changed, therefore no point measuring it, just measure the block side of things.... get me
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Old Sep 1, 2004 | 11:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Billabong
billabong, i was assuming he was using the original head on the new engine
bbigman2000 - cracked block - worse than you originally thought then?
yeh bloody night mare mate, just my luck buddy.

have just mailed MSD to make a booking for a remap
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Old Sep 1, 2004 | 11:06 PM
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Jim, your sig is huuuuuuuuge!!! Get that? (see what you were trying to say now but best way is to measure properly - as it will be built up, imo - no room for error then)

Here ya go:



75K down to 25K

bbigman, at least you found out before shelling half the price of a block on 'Tommy' Cooper rings
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Old Sep 1, 2004 | 11:07 PM
  #23  
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cheers... blame thrush tho
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Old Sep 1, 2004 | 11:16 PM
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billabong, dam rite there buddy, id have spent £300 odd on the gasket alone !!!!!!!

what do you reckon my head is worth ? and the crank and pistons ?

all in very good condition ?
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Old Sep 2, 2004 | 10:14 AM
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The Head you'd have to get measured to see how much it had been skimmed to see how much it's worth........but generally looking £300-500 (£500 if totally unskimmed).

Crank, if it's unground then probs around £300. Rods, £80 for the set? Pistons you'd be lucky to sell mate, most people won't use second hand pistons if they have any sense (unless VERY low mileage) but stick em on E-bay you might get sommit for 'em, seen quite a few second hand cossie pistons on there in the past.

Cheers,
Ian
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