what compression ratio cossie experts
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From: Elgin - Scotland
Guys my escort cossie curently has :-
standard head and cams
Low comp pistons
Standard crank and rods
can you tell me what the comp ratio will be ?
Also im looking at buying a L&B engine thats been used in a rally car, group A head gasket
do you think compression ratio will be the same ?
any info appreciated gents Glen
standard head and cams
Low comp pistons
Standard crank and rods
can you tell me what the comp ratio will be ?
Also im looking at buying a L&B engine thats been used in a rally car, group A head gasket
do you think compression ratio will be the same ?
any info appreciated gents Glen
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From: Ramsgate, Kent Drives: E39 530D Touring
what phil is implying is that its impossible to know what CR your engine is...
...low comp pistons could mean anything, you need to know exactly what they are
...low comp pistons could mean anything, you need to know exactly what they are
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From: Elgin - Scotland
ah cool ok cheers Jim, thanks, that will be impossible to find out 
dammit
il just have to pray, that it will run ok on this motor until i can get it checked out
dammit
il just have to pray, that it will run ok on this motor until i can get it checked out
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From: Ramsgate, Kent Drives: E39 530D Touring
when the old block is removed, measure the deck height...
when the new block is refitted, measure the deck height...
if theyre the same... sorted
if theyre different it 100% will need a remap...
if the heigh is SHORTER (ie more space in combustion chamber) you SHOULD be able to get away with driving the car for a while
if the new ones are talled (ie less space in combustion chamber=higher CR) then it isnt advisable to drive the car i this state, DEFFINALTELY dont drive it at full chat/boost as it WILL det
when the new block is refitted, measure the deck height...
if theyre the same... sorted
if theyre different it 100% will need a remap...
if the heigh is SHORTER (ie more space in combustion chamber) you SHOULD be able to get away with driving the car for a while
if the new ones are talled (ie less space in combustion chamber=higher CR) then it isnt advisable to drive the car i this state, DEFFINALTELY dont drive it at full chat/boost as it WILL det
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From: Elgin - Scotland
Originally Posted by Jim Galbally
when the old block is removed, measure the deck height...
when the new block is refitted, measure the deck height...
if theyre the same... sorted
if theyre different it 100% will need a remap...
if the heigh is SHORTER (ie more space in combustion chamber) you SHOULD be able to get away with driving the car for a while
if the new ones are talled (ie less space in combustion chamber=higher CR) then it isnt advisable to drive the car i this state, DEFFINALTELY dont drive it at full chat/boost as it WILL det
when the new block is refitted, measure the deck height...
if theyre the same... sorted
if theyre different it 100% will need a remap...
if the heigh is SHORTER (ie more space in combustion chamber) you SHOULD be able to get away with driving the car for a while
if the new ones are talled (ie less space in combustion chamber=higher CR) then it isnt advisable to drive the car i this state, DEFFINALTELY dont drive it at full chat/boost as it WILL det
sorry to be sounding stupid, but can you briefly explain where to measure
is the deck height, the depth of the cylinder head ?
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From: Ramsgate, Kent Drives: E39 530D Touring
put the engine at TDC (well, just make sure one of the pistons is as high as it can go)
and pour some liquid in there (i think people use parafin, cant remembe tho to be honest) till its completely full, then use a burette (sucker thingie you get ijnjections with) and measure how much liquid there is there
you can then use this information to work out the compression ratio of the engine
OR the quick easy way... use a ruler and measure how much space is left when the piston is at the very top.
TBH your tuner that fitting the engne should/will do this all for you, as even a stupid spannermonkey mechanic wouldnt be stupid enough to put an unknown spec engine back in a car without checking what it actually is! lol
and pour some liquid in there (i think people use parafin, cant remembe tho to be honest) till its completely full, then use a burette (sucker thingie you get ijnjections with) and measure how much liquid there is there
you can then use this information to work out the compression ratio of the engine
OR the quick easy way... use a ruler and measure how much space is left when the piston is at the very top.
TBH your tuner that fitting the engne should/will do this all for you, as even a stupid spannermonkey mechanic wouldnt be stupid enough to put an unknown spec engine back in a car without checking what it actually is! lol
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From: Elgin - Scotland
Mate, in Inverness you wouldnt believe it lol, there is no way they have the savvy to do that, the engine im getting is on standard compression buddy
just found out from the guy
Wonder if I fit water injection will I protect the motor for a few weeks until I can get down to msd, and il run it on optimax and octane booster
just found out from the guy
Wonder if I fit water injection will I protect the motor for a few weeks until I can get down to msd, and il run it on optimax and octane booster
Originally Posted by bbigman2000
Mate, in Inverness you wouldnt believe it lol, there is no way they have the savvy to do that, the engine im getting is on standard compression buddy
just found out from the guy
Wonder if I fit water injection will I protect the motor for a few weeks until I can get down to MSD, and il run it on optimax and octane booster
just found out from the guy
Wonder if I fit water injection will I protect the motor for a few weeks until I can get down to MSD, and il run it on optimax and octane booster
No point in messing round with water injection, it needs to be mapped in really.......just drive it off boost (which aint too hard on a T4
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From: Elgin - Scotland
LOL @ T4 comment mate if I remember il take my camera tmrw and take pics of the cracked block etc and the turbo, I wont be back until friday to show you though.
I guess im just gonna have to drive all the dam way to blackpool, bloody hell this is gonna be the death on me this car
I guess im just gonna have to drive all the dam way to blackpool, bloody hell this is gonna be the death on me this car
billabong, i was assuming he was using the original head on the new engine
Depends if it's been skimmed (and head chamber HAS to be considered when measuring comp ratio) ........ took standard head to mean unported etc. not many completely untouched (in terms of skims etc) heads around thesedays.
bbigman2000 - cracke block - worse than you originally thought then?
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From: Ramsgate, Kent Drives: E39 530D Touring
no but what i mean is if the head is removed from engine 1 and refitted to engine 2 then it hasn't changed, therefore no point measuring it, just measure the block side of things.... get me
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From: Elgin - Scotland
Originally Posted by Billabong
billabong, i was assuming he was using the original head on the new engine
have just mailed MSD to make a booking for a remap
Jim, your sig is huuuuuuuuge!!! Get that?
(see what you were trying to say now but best way is to measure properly - as it will be built up, imo - no room for error then)
Here ya go:

75K down to 25K
bbigman, at least you found out before shelling half the price of a block on 'Tommy' Cooper rings
Here ya go:

75K down to 25K
bbigman, at least you found out before shelling half the price of a block on 'Tommy' Cooper rings
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From: Elgin - Scotland
billabong, dam rite there buddy, id have spent £300 odd on the gasket alone !!!!!!!
what do you reckon my head is worth ? and the crank and pistons ?
all in very good condition ?
what do you reckon my head is worth ? and the crank and pistons ?
all in very good condition ?
The Head you'd have to get measured to see how much it had been skimmed to see how much it's worth........but generally looking £300-500 (£500 if totally unskimmed).
Crank, if it's unground then probs around £300. Rods, £80 for the set? Pistons you'd be lucky to sell mate, most people won't use second hand pistons if they have any sense (unless VERY low mileage) but stick em on E-bay you might get sommit for 'em, seen quite a few second hand cossie pistons on there in the past.
Cheers,
Ian
Crank, if it's unground then probs around £300. Rods, £80 for the set? Pistons you'd be lucky to sell mate, most people won't use second hand pistons if they have any sense (unless VERY low mileage) but stick em on E-bay you might get sommit for 'em, seen quite a few second hand cossie pistons on there in the past.
Cheers,
Ian
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