lets here how people run there engines in
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From: enfield
lets here how people run there engines in how many oil change theye do when and how many miles theye do .i think there was link to a site befor on here
We do 1000 miles on a good quality Mineral Oil. 500 miles of no boost and no more than 4000rpm, then progressively work up in RPM and boost between 500 and 1000 miles. I actually kept Mineral Oil in mine for longer than 1000 miles, even though it was running full boost and power.
The rings will be nicely bedded in.
It's no good just sitting it on a motorway at one speed and crunching the miles, it needs to see varied RPM, so sometimes change down a gear for a few miles.
My opinion is that the better you run it in, the better long-term service you will get out of it. Competition cars don't really get run in, but then they get rebuilt every season or in some cases every race.
The rings will be nicely bedded in.
It's no good just sitting it on a motorway at one speed and crunching the miles, it needs to see varied RPM, so sometimes change down a gear for a few miles.
My opinion is that the better you run it in, the better long-term service you will get out of it. Competition cars don't really get run in, but then they get rebuilt every season or in some cases every race.
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mines been rebuilt and has had 20 50w valvoline racing oil put in for running in..seems to b fine so far. not worth having it set up now b4 winter, as she's coming off the road. wud u suggest an oil change though and if so what oil for the winter months?
I would continue using the Valvoline for 1000-1500 miles, changing it every 400-500 miles then over to the Synthetic.
You really ought to have the fuelling checked to make sure its not mega-rich for any reason.
You really ought to have the fuelling checked to make sure its not mega-rich for any reason.
i check for leaks on run up, with mineral oil
drive it normal and hard with practically no boost, for 300 miles,
change oil, i use GTX magnatec synthetic,
turn boost back up, set up:- drive it like it built for,
then again mine is tuned and i have re built it a few times, but mainly re built due to it been tuned high, and is not a reliable runner anymore
drive it normal and hard with practically no boost, for 300 miles,
change oil, i use GTX magnatec synthetic,
turn boost back up, set up:- drive it like it built for,
then again mine is tuned and i have re built it a few times, but mainly re built due to it been tuned high, and is not a reliable runner anymore
I use cheap mineral oil.
For the 1st 100 miles, varying load on the engine bellow 300rpm. I ususally take it up into the hills round here as this gives a lot of up and down gear changes and varying loading on the engine from coasting down hills and having to work the engine to get up hills.
After 100 miles, a fresh oil filter and oil and off I went again. Same theory, plenty of load on the engine up to 5he 500 mile mark with revs upto the 3.5k mark and using boost.
Fresh filter and oil for the next 500 miles with the same theory but taking it upto 4.5k rpm with full boost.
After the 1000 miles is complete, new filter and some decent oil. Take it for a set up and off you go.
For the 1st 100 miles, varying load on the engine bellow 300rpm. I ususally take it up into the hills round here as this gives a lot of up and down gear changes and varying loading on the engine from coasting down hills and having to work the engine to get up hills.
After 100 miles, a fresh oil filter and oil and off I went again. Same theory, plenty of load on the engine up to 5he 500 mile mark with revs upto the 3.5k mark and using boost.
Fresh filter and oil for the next 500 miles with the same theory but taking it upto 4.5k rpm with full boost.
After the 1000 miles is complete, new filter and some decent oil. Take it for a set up and off you go.
1000 miles on a little boost and load as poss using less than 4k.
just normal drivng basicaly.
doing it all in one go is no good as the engine needs as many full thermal shtdowns in this period as poss.
use any oil as long as its not fully synthetic.
change to fully syn after 1k and set it set up.
just normal drivng basicaly.
doing it all in one go is no good as the engine needs as many full thermal shtdowns in this period as poss.
use any oil as long as its not fully synthetic.
change to fully syn after 1k and set it set up.
Fresh std morris 15/40w for first run up, whilst checked over for leaks etc ect. then dropped straight away, and more 15/40 refilled.
Idle set at 1500 rpm whilst running in, and afr about 14.0 - 14.5
Then first 150miles easy below 3000 rpm. and once again AFR 14.0-14.5 whilst driving
between 150-350 miles use it harder, upto 4000 rpm. But not more than 1/4 throttle, and 0 boost. once again AFR 14.0 - 14.5
350 - 500 miles use harder again, upto 4500, half throttle and 5 psi boost.
Oil and filter changed to normal Fully if cossie, Semi if CVH.
Nuts and bolts all checked.
Next 500miles car used as normal, but on low boost, Cvh 10psi, Cossie 15-20psi, And reved fully.
Once again oil change, and full check over.
Now full boost.
I hear of 1000 miles of running in of 3000 rpm, and believe its pointless, as the engine wont bed in propertly.
A engine needs to be loaded up, and revs need to change for it to run in well.
That and a well built engine, will see good starter Compressions, (matters on C/r also) and different comp tester read different if cheap or old.
i see 165-170 psi (with in 3psi over all bores) on both my 8.0:1 cossie engine, and my 7.9:1 cvh engine. After 500 miles, and dont change much at all after that.
Idle set at 1500 rpm whilst running in, and afr about 14.0 - 14.5
Then first 150miles easy below 3000 rpm. and once again AFR 14.0-14.5 whilst driving
between 150-350 miles use it harder, upto 4000 rpm. But not more than 1/4 throttle, and 0 boost. once again AFR 14.0 - 14.5
350 - 500 miles use harder again, upto 4500, half throttle and 5 psi boost.
Oil and filter changed to normal Fully if cossie, Semi if CVH.
Nuts and bolts all checked.
Next 500miles car used as normal, but on low boost, Cvh 10psi, Cossie 15-20psi, And reved fully.
Once again oil change, and full check over.
Now full boost.
I hear of 1000 miles of running in of 3000 rpm, and believe its pointless, as the engine wont bed in propertly.
A engine needs to be loaded up, and revs need to change for it to run in well.
That and a well built engine, will see good starter Compressions, (matters on C/r also) and different comp tester read different if cheap or old.
i see 165-170 psi (with in 3psi over all bores) on both my 8.0:1 cossie engine, and my 7.9:1 cvh engine. After 500 miles, and dont change much at all after that.
Originally Posted by JoeE30
Run it up, any leaks, and obvious problems.......no!
Ok nail it, run it in like it will be driven...........
Ok nail it, run it in like it will be driven...........

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