can anyone help me

ive got a stu and nut kit here to fit into my block

but the stud doesnt sit flush with the top of the block the chamfer or middle of the stud is above the block by about 1-2mm

is this normal as they wont do up anymore

also should i loctite them in or just use there oil they supply

 

use thre oil mate ,they will only go down as far as they go .iirc mine are the same
I have them in mine ,they dont have a torque setting either as the compresion of the gaket occurs when the nut is fitted.

 

what you mean hey dont have a torque setting

says i should torque it down to 80lb with there oil or 105lbs with any other

do i apply there oil on to the top and bottom of the studs

also is a cosmetic triple layer gasket im using if that makes any diference

 

when re fiting mine ,i called Burton Power . The information given to me by them was to aply the oil to the nuts and not the stud mate..

 

dont use them they crack the blocks

 

ok mate

ill get it all fitted tomorrow
thanks

 

Says who



If you cross the road you may also be knocked over

 

i also heard this aswell

but im in a dilemma, need to get my engin ein by end of month, i carnt afford bolts and and a grp a gasket

ive had a triple layer cosmetic and arp studs for a while for my rebuild later on in the year for my other engine but going to use them now

why would they crack the block as there only going down as far as std bolts anyhow

 

they dont strech

 

surely thats a good thing though

as stretch bolts will only be stretched when torqued down to correct settings or do they stretch even more due to heat expansions on head?

but the arp bolts are no way near torqued to what a stretch bolt is

 

no strech. pull out the block and crack

 

hmmm

think im going to have to risk it anyhow, i have no choice tbh

what power are they cracking at though as im only going for around 330

 

350 to 400 m8

 

will see what happens

if it lets go it lets go

ill rebuild it all into my 200 block which has wrc studs fitted

just dont want to disturb this engine yet as it runs sweet as a nut

just needed to do headgasket while its on the stand before i up the power

 

I could possibly get shot down in flames for this, but this is what I’ve done and works for me. I’ve got the GGR stud kit fitted to my Escort Cossie, and the block thread was tapped straight to the bottom, as I believe the thread is slightly tapered inside the block. So when putting a stud in to the bottom of the thread will cause stress at the bottom. This is possibly what could cause the cracking. The studs were oiled and torqued to 15lbs and then I fitted a WRC four layer gasket and torqued the head according to the GGR instructions. I drive my car rather hard and is an every day driver (110 miles per day) and is going fine. (Done 20,000 miles now) Currently running 330 BHP on blues, set up on Power Engineering rolling road. As the gearbox is a bit dodgy, I’m running a lower boost, but should be 375 BHP.

Hope this helps.

Cheers
John

 

i can see what your saying but i dont want to start re taping the block etc

i will see how it goes im not expecting it to las forever, if it does crack then so be it

as long as its not after a week lol

surely theres people who use them and never had any problems

why sell something that doesnt work

 

I fun the ARP 10 stud and nut kit in mine and have done for 12 months now. I'm running stage 3 and quite a bit of Nos and have never had any trouble at all.

Not using a cometic either. I wire rang the block and fitted a standard head gasket fo a tenner

As for fitting them. I loctited them into the block and then applied there lube to the nuts and washers and torqued them all down to 90 ft/lb just for good measure

 

ok well im going to use them as ive said

but another thing ive just noticed is they have no washers in the kit?

should there be

is it worth getting some washers for the nuts same size as std ones