This question is for my cousin Whitesaph and Lovely Linda,

His 2wd saph has a problem and whe can't find it and it's difficult for me to write this down in English.

The engine shut's down after 2 seconds of idling and has a poor driveability, when you get the connector of the idle control valve it will run at aprox 650rpm, but still bad driving.
When you drive a way and in any gear, you fully press the gaspedal down the problem is gone.

When engine is warm, idle is aprox 1500rpm and still bad driving.
Whe cannot find the problem.

The car is a 2wd saph, running grey's and t-34.

Things that we have replaced.

3 bar map sensor
phase-sensor
crank-sensor
distributer and rotor
plugs and plug-leads
ignition module
ignition coil
ecu and chip
idle control valve
all relais and fuses

We cleaned all earth-points

The only 2 things we haven't yet replaced is the engine coolant sensor and the TPS sensor.

Anyone has a idea??????

 

 

mine did this and it was bad connections on the engine coolant sensor

mark

 

i dont know but BTTT for them to get it sorted

 

Anybody?????

 

as said try the engine coolant sensor (the one that goes in the back of the head the blue one)

 

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Tried that but didn't change a thing.....

 

Have you tried replacing the car to see if that will cure it?..ROFL

 

That's a thought......

 

Still not fixed.....

 

Stu could u make a wild guess mate???

 

You need to get this thing onto a Pectel monitor.
Id have guessed initially at a TPS or CTS actually toi be honest due to the high idle drive current so cant understand why you have changed all those other things and not the two most likely culprits

 

sorry to high jack the thread but what do TPS and CTS stand for as I have the same problem? Is it Temperature Control Sensor?

Also where can they be found please?

 

tps - throttle position sensor and cts i dunno, mayb ehe meant cps - crank position sensor? lol

 

coolant temp sensor (blue plug above the oil filter)
throttle position sensor ( on the side of the throttle body)

 

Coolant sensor is changed but this also isn't the problem and we have measured the sensor and the resistance is changing when the sensor is getter warmer.

The TPS is also measured at the ecu and it goes from 5V to 0V when you press the pedal.

We also took off the complete inlet manifold and put some new gasket on it, this has made some difference but still not the complete problem.

How does the Idle Speed control valve operate??? Is this valve changing position or is it just open and closed and nothing between it.

We didn't drive with the car yet but the problem now is, when we start the car it idle's at 1000rpm for 2 sec. and then the engine stalls.

Cheers Ruud

 

 

very strange ruud so suddenly

 

Yeah i know Rene, can't locate the problem.
He drives on grey no problem and then he goes on holiday and suddenly there's his problem and we can't get it sorted out for almost 3 weeks now

But we will find it!!!!!!

 

Faulty wiring at one of the connector plugs?
Is the fuel pump earthed through the oil pressure switch on these cars?
Make sure the relays are identical to any you replace. I changed (cos I lost it ) a (bosch) fuel pump relay on a previous car with one that was marked identically but the car wouldn't run with it fitted. It wasn't until months later when I found the origional relay and re-fitted it, the car fired up straight away

Have you checked fuel delivery? It could be priming the system but pump not running after that, hence abot 2secs of running.

 

Time to get a multi meter on the loom to ECU plug and check for high resistance by the sound of it.....

 

ruud its a shame i am not very near as otherwise i would have tried my best to help out mate.

otherwise let me know and ill see if i can pop up on a sunday or summat

 

Thanks for the help on my bit guys

 

Fuel pump and fuel pressure are OK.
When you start the car with idle control valve OFF then the cars idle's at 650 rpm, when you connect the idle control valve, it goes for 1 sec at 1500rpm and then it shut's off.

When you drive the car easy example 50km/h in gear 3 the car shakes, but when you press the gas pedal fully, there is no problem.

So when you really go for it there is no problem, but when driving normal with no boost then the car shakes.


When engine is cold it doesn't idle, when engine is warm, idle is 1500rpm.

Cheers Ruud

 

maybe worth taking a drive with the ISCV off?

 

Start it up and disconnect the idle speed control valve........

Set the idle speed to 850-950rpm then reconnect the idle speed control valve and see what happens.....

 

Will try that

I'll let you know.

Cheers Ruud

 

Anything?

 

up for more views

 

He drove with the idle vlave off and nothing changed, still a shaky car with normal drive.

Tomorow we gonna take the TPS off and get another TPS back on.

Cheers for the advice so far.

Ruud

 

Did you do this?

If the car is idling below 800rpm naturally with the idle valve disconnected then when you reconnect the vlave it will try and rev up on it's own then either hunt it's box off or rev up and cut out....

The base idle speed with out the valve connected needs to be about 850-900 rpm....

 

Today we replaced the TPS still the problem

Then we replaced for the 2nd time the ECU and the problem is gone

We gonna do some test-drive's and let you know how it goes.

Cheers Ruud

 

Hello????

 

Have you checked the idle CO? Sounds like the problem to me, once its used up all the startup fuel after 2 secs it dies!

 

Before we replaced the ECU we did this, still the problem there.

After we replaced the ECU we did this and the car idle's at the moment and drive's good.

Cheers for all the advice peeps.

Ruud

 

i had the exact problem on my 2wd saph...... if you look at the front of the car at the engine, look at the plenum chamber, at the very front of it there is a 10mm bolt that i think holds the fuel rail on or the accelerator bracket. the ford ecu loom rounds against it, and some times can wair through the loom, mine done this and sometimes run under 650rpm on idle sometimes was ok though. after some time it rubbed through the coil ign live wire, which then blew my ecu up!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! brought a new one, then replaced the hole ecu loom with a motorsport wiring solutions loom (john does all the ford rallye cars looms) he is the man for these sort of probs. 07802 808751.

 

So is it ok then?

 

Yesterday we took the car for a testdrive, the car has never run so perfect.