Probs with water temp on cossie
have fitted my rebuilt cossie lump this weekend, and am having a little trouble with the running temps, also i fitted a new temp sender for the gauge.
basically the gauge moves up to just above the 'O' , and the fans still haven't kicked in
and when driving along,the gauge is around the 'O' still??
what i'm thinking is maybe i've been given the wrong temp sender,and the gauge is reading too high, i don't want to leave it running for any longer than i have been though, in case it is over heating.
the fans come on when i bridge the wires.
so either....
A: the temp sender is wrong,and it's over reading and i'm not letting it run long enough for the fans to cut in...
B: the sensor for the fans is duff,and they aren't coming on, but why would the gauge be on the 'O' whilst driving,when it always used to sit half way (i haven't changed thermostat)
does anyone know any voltage checks i can do on the sender?
basically the gauge moves up to just above the 'O' , and the fans still haven't kicked in
what i'm thinking is maybe i've been given the wrong temp sender,and the gauge is reading too high, i don't want to leave it running for any longer than i have been though, in case it is over heating.
the fans come on when i bridge the wires.
so either....
A: the temp sender is wrong,and it's over reading and i'm not letting it run long enough for the fans to cut in...
B: the sensor for the fans is duff,and they aren't coming on, but why would the gauge be on the 'O' whilst driving,when it always used to sit half way (i haven't changed thermostat)
does anyone know any voltage checks i can do on the sender?
the 'O' is about three quaters up the gauge, it reads N O R M downwards with the red above the N (i know you probably know this,but just to refresh your memory
)
i ran it for ages without the cap on, but not sure if theres an airlock?? is there a bleed valve anywhere (haven't really looked at the read in detail yet
)
i ran it for ages without the cap on, but not sure if theres an airlock?? is there a bleed valve anywhere (haven't really looked at the read in detail yet
)
Originally Posted by bud-weis
the 'O' is about three quaters up the gauge, it reads N O R M downwards with the red above the N (i know you probably know this,but just to refresh your memory
)
i ran it for ages without the cap on, but not sure if theres an airlock?? is there a bleed valve anywhere (haven't really looked at the read in detail yet
)
i ran it for ages without the cap on, but not sure if theres an airlock?? is there a bleed valve anywhere (haven't really looked at the read in detail yet
)
I would be tempted to try another temp sender 1st and then go from there. At least that way you know if you have a problem or not!
There is no bleed screw on a 2wd thermostat housing but i always leave the hose going from rad to thermostat loose for a while whilst putting in the coolant and that seems to work ok
i've just put an after market temp sender in my 2wd saff
before it read between the O & R on the gauge and the fans came on around the moddle of the O .
now when driving the gauge reads in the midle of the O and the fans come on around the middle of the N
hope this is of help ???
i know snap on do a digital temp reading gauge that you point at a water hose to find out what temp it is at , if you ask at you're local garage thay might have one that you could use , if you go down in you're car .
that way you tell what temp it is running at ?????.
or
waterpump could be shot at ???
radiator blocked near fan switch ???
faulty fan switch ???
before it read between the O & R on the gauge and the fans came on around the moddle of the O .
now when driving the gauge reads in the midle of the O and the fans come on around the middle of the N
hope this is of help ???
i know snap on do a digital temp reading gauge that you point at a water hose to find out what temp it is at , if you ask at you're local garage thay might have one that you could use , if you go down in you're car .
that way you tell what temp it is running at ?????.
or
waterpump could be shot at ???
radiator blocked near fan switch ???
faulty fan switch ???
OK, there's been loads of posts on here lately regarding coolant temperature and gauge readings....
If you have access to a multimeter and can probe onto the back of the ECU connector whilst it's all running, measure the voltage signal the ECU sees from the coolant sensor at pin 29 (black/green on 4x4) and compare to the chart:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/09...tempsensor.jpg
If you have access to a multimeter and can probe onto the back of the ECU connector whilst it's all running, measure the voltage signal the ECU sees from the coolant sensor at pin 29 (black/green on 4x4) and compare to the chart:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/09...tempsensor.jpg
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Originally Posted by StickerPaul
Sounds like an air lock mate, run the car up to temp with the header tank cap off.
gonna refit my old sender i reckon,and see what that does. its just a bit unsettling watching the gauge go higher than it used to, and the fans still not coming on.
will have a mess today
Originally Posted by bud-weis
have fitted my rebuilt cossie lump this weekend, and am having a little trouble with the running temps, also i fitted a new temp sender for the gauge.
basically the gauge moves up to just above the 'O' , and the fans still haven't kicked in
and when driving along,the gauge is around the 'O' still??
what i'm thinking is maybe i've been given the wrong temp sender,and the gauge is reading too high, i don't want to leave it running for any longer than i have been though, in case it is over heating.
the fans come on when i bridge the wires.
so either....
A: the temp sender is wrong,and it's over reading and i'm not letting it run long enough for the fans to cut in...
B: the sensor for the fans is duff,and they aren't coming on, but why would the gauge be on the 'O' whilst driving,when it always used to sit half way (i haven't changed thermostat)
does anyone know any voltage checks i can do on the sender?
basically the gauge moves up to just above the 'O' , and the fans still haven't kicked in
what i'm thinking is maybe i've been given the wrong temp sender,and the gauge is reading too high, i don't want to leave it running for any longer than i have been though, in case it is over heating.
the fans come on when i bridge the wires.
so either....
A: the temp sender is wrong,and it's over reading and i'm not letting it run long enough for the fans to cut in...
B: the sensor for the fans is duff,and they aren't coming on, but why would the gauge be on the 'O' whilst driving,when it always used to sit half way (i haven't changed thermostat)
does anyone know any voltage checks i can do on the sender?
keep the suggestions coming though matey
wanna get this sorted
Originally Posted by GARETH T
richm
its more likely to be the gauge sensor and not the ecu sensor
its more likely to be the gauge sensor and not the ecu sensor
That's why i posted the chart so peeps can measure what is actually happening rather than stressing about what the gauge says
there's been soo many posts lately about this issue, with people only taking the gauge indication as gospel regarding water temperature, when in fact there's not likely to be a problem at all! I've seen all the shite that the gauge can try and tell you from time to time, and frankly I don't take much notice of it any more. The fans can take ages to come on when it's stood still too, and it's easy to persuade yourself they are not going to, when in fact the temperature just isn't actually hot enough to get them on.
Martin, feel the temperature of the top rad hose - if it is overheating you WILL burn your hand
. If you can get hold of the top hose without it being severely uncomfortable then it's not a big problem.
even with samco's
what if my hand is made of Asbestos
gonna check circulation again,and that the 'stat opens ok, then just wait and wait for the fans.
just a thought........if i leave the header tank cap off and just watch the water,at what point do the fans normally come on?? i mean if the water boils and they are not on then i have probs? or shouldn't i let it get to boiling point?
got loads of little jobs that need doing
what if my hand is made of Asbestos
gonna check circulation again,and that the 'stat opens ok, then just wait and wait for the fans.
just a thought........if i leave the header tank cap off and just watch the water,at what point do the fans normally come on?? i mean if the water boils and they are not on then i have probs? or shouldn't i let it get to boiling point?
got loads of little jobs that need doing
UPDATE
it seems the fault is with the temp sender reading too high.
i left it and left it and then.........................Fans came on
thing is,the gauge was reading just below the red, about middle of the 'N'
i have ordered a new genuine ford sender, but Karl tells me there are 11 different types
it seems the fault is with the temp sender reading too high.
i left it and left it and then.........................Fans came on
thing is,the gauge was reading just below the red, about middle of the 'N'
i have ordered a new genuine ford sender, but Karl tells me there are 11 different types
Mine is the same used to run middle of the gauge, done the head gasket and changed the thermostat and temp sender and now its middle of the O not too bothered as it doesnt move at all when driving. How easy are the temp senders to change? Thats the blue one?
no not the blue one - the gauge sender is the small brass one with a threaded stud on the end.. Simple to change on a 2wd head, it's near the front on the driver side - complete c0ck to get at on 4x4 and escos though, right next to the blue coolant sensor, behind the dipstick
@ bud -weis,youre temp sender should have a colored plastic ring on it.I bet you the new one is a different colour to youre old one.When you went to the ford parts department the 1st question the storeman should have asked you is what colour ring is on youre temp sender.Regards Micky Regards Micky
Originally Posted by Micky
@ bud -weis,youre temp sender should have a colored plastic ring on it.I bet you the new one is a different colour to youre old one.When you went to the ford parts department the 1st question the storeman should have asked you is what colour ring is on youre temp sender.Regards Micky Regards Micky
id also change your fan switch aswell
on mine i thought it was the gauge sender as it would creep up high on the gauge then the fans kicked in turned out that i had a dodgy fan switch and was kicking in higher than normal
on mine i thought it was the gauge sender as it would creep up high on the gauge then the fans kicked in turned out that i had a dodgy fan switch and was kicking in higher than normal
Guys... what is "normal" in all of these discussions?? no-one ever seems to be measuring any actual temperatures!! There's lots of "change this, change that" and reference to varying gauge readings... but no temperatures are actually known
Get some temperature readings then draw conclusions about which sensors/switches/thermostats are not working (if any).
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oh no, it goes all the way up to the O in norm 
i wonder what NORM means anyway?
oh no wait, it's NORMAL.
so even if its on the N its still NORMAL temperature, ie DONT FOOKIN PANIC, EVERYTHING's OK
the red bits are the bad bits

i wonder what NORM means anyway?
oh no wait, it's NORMAL.
so even if its on the N its still NORMAL temperature, ie DONT FOOKIN PANIC, EVERYTHING's OK

the red bits are the bad bits
Originally Posted by richm
Guys... what is "normal" in all of these discussions?? no-one ever seems to be measuring any actual temperatures!! There's lots of "change this, change that" and reference to varying gauge readings... but no temperatures are actually known
Get some temperature readings then draw conclusions about which sensors/switches/thermostats are not working (if any). 
Thats why i took mine to a GS to have it all checked and it turn out to be a blocked rad
Now its got a nice new pro alloy
Could have gone for a standard rad but i did not want to
Originally Posted by richm
Guys... what is "normal" in all of these discussions?? no-one ever seems to be measuring any actual temperatures!! There's lots of "change this, change that" and reference to varying gauge readings... but no temperatures are actually known
Get some temperature readings then draw conclusions about which sensors/switches/thermostats are not working (if any). 
Originally Posted by Jim Galbally
oh no, it goes all the way up to the O in norm 
i wonder what NORM means anyway?
oh no wait, it's NORMAL.
so even if its on the N its still NORMAL temperature, ie DONT FOOKIN PANIC, EVERYTHING's OK
the red bits are the bad bits

i wonder what NORM means anyway?
oh no wait, it's NORMAL.
so even if its on the N its still NORMAL temperature, ie DONT FOOKIN PANIC, EVERYTHING's OK

the red bits are the bad bits

fact is i was a little worried about the temp, i didn't realise the senders would read different from one to another. So i checked it, found the problem and now it's all sorted.
Personally if i have a problem on the car i like to at least look into it
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