What are the differences between 350bhp and 400bhp rebuilds that accounts to £3-4k more for 400bhp?

What do you actually get for your money?

 

50bhp

sorry fella, will wait for someone with sense and knowledge to answer

 

i guess a ported head is involved, and the time taken to do it accounts for a lot of money.

 

big injetors for a start ur have to go to greys for 400bhp and better head work and bigger turbo for 400bhp pectel will all ways help u better for running that bhp

 

The 50bhp is irelevant. Its the cost!

 

a lot of money

 

I think you need Better items in the build to handle 400 bhp reliably.Which also means more expensive.You probably could do a 400 bhp motor for not much more than a 350 BUT you'd be asking ALOT more of the cheaper parts you put into the build which would eventually BREAK.then your back at square 1.You may be lucky and get away with it BUT i would rather do it ONCE and do it Properly.

For Example
Head Gasket.
Grp 'A' would probably be ok for 350 About £80
For 400 i would go for a Proper WRC 4 layer one £350 As your running more boost etc.

Do that kind of thing to say 5 items and see where i'm going.

HTH

 

low comp t4 greys 2bar - 400bhp

or low comp head work / cams / t34-t38 2.3 bar / greys

Takes ya pick LOL

 

But which one is cheaper?

 

i dont understand why people say 'do it once do it right' as you know you wont be doing it once anyway

you can have 350 quite sensibly on a standard engine , you cant with 400

 

i have 350

std comp, grp a head gasket.. t34 21 psi

for me to go to 400 i'd need soooooo much more boost, head ported, fuel pump, greys, live map

more bits too, like diff bigger brakes,,lol

350 is VERY reliable at my spec, an to just get the extra 50bhp, i personally dont think it's worth it

 

Yes it is Spiky and You Knows It.

 

Can you get a little bit more on std comp but using light blues?

 

if your going for 400Bhp then why not round it up to 500 having said that you may as well go for 600........

 

yes u can, as u can run about 26psi, live mapped will give more power

 

ummmmmmm no


i aint payin 6k+ for 50 bhp and less oil consumption

 

not sure what you're saying here spiky, as light blues don't flow as much as greys

 

light blues WILL run 26psi held

any highter then u will need greys

 

i get you. sorry, i thought you were already running greys from your ealier post but now i realise that you are saying to get 400 you'd need to go to greys.

so you're on dark greens and 21 psi?

 

i am yes

 

I am running about 360-370bhp on a standard engine with greys and a T34

 

IMO i wouldnt have gone 400bhp as 330-50bhp is great. Only reason i am going that is my engine had to have a rebuild anyway so why not?

 

Tiff can i ask why you went greys and not light blues??

 

swerv, the light blues he had were faulty

 

spiky, the difference between your setup and a 400 build on the road is devastating, tim has a scs "greens" (4*4 bottom end, 2wd std head, std cams, t34, 500 cooler) engine holding about 22psi and compared to mine his feels like 75% throttle lol it also runs out of revs sooo fast its silly go blag a ride in lanky's motor (identical to mine apart from the extra 50kg of cheese his carries around ROFLOL) and then come back and report

one thing i will say for a 330 conversion is they have loads more traction over a 400 one

 

Get better tyres then you pikey bast!

 

rich, when i drove tims car it was running my old 3 door rims with its quality nankang specials that chop bought still on and it still had more traction than my car on 235 proper rubber my car span 5th gear up with them on

 

Better tyres and proper geometry and suspension will put paid to that gimpy!!!

Marco has a well set-up car and he can floor it through the gears from 1st without wheelspinning.

 

What's your definition of proper rubber then?

 

MATES ribbed for Matt!

 

yes shaun i know that, mine has got better with a few mods since it last ran 15's, sitting the tyres as flat to the road as poss was a place to start and also stopping it bottoming out. marco's car is the danglies BUT it must have as much cash in its handling as youve spent with tony

rich, aint saying im a tyre expert by any means mate but i know that the £30 a corner nankangs aint a patch on the continental sport rears i now have. (waits for you to say they are shit lol) it launched very well indeed and gripped quite well last time i dare launch it

 

Not too bad a tyre at all.

Must be the driver at fault then

 

either that or the loads more powerful engine and steep agressive torque delivery having a slight effect

 

Nah, driver

 

DAMNED GOOD TOPIC....

Lets see some technical answers by the tuners/Engine Builders.

 

Now you KNOW that could NEVER be true!!!!

The car is back at TS filling up Tony's bumbag as I type!

 

Matt

i haven't spent that much on the chassis,i would say in total about 3k thats front/rear/supension/beam/arms/ tca/rose joints/castor/camber and setting up
and don't forget i have a proper L.S.D which does help

I can make the car wheels spin in nearly every gear but theres no point..i just feather the power with my right foot depending

i use the normal GD3's which are ok ...

all my car needs now is just a little more power to finish it off.but untill i come into some money it's not going to happen , once this engine is dead it will take me over a yr to re do it ...if it was to fail tobe honest i wouldn't be that bothered as it has lasted ages to be fair... i have done 8/9 trackdays and it's still fine no smoke or nothing

power isn't everything it the whole car thats the key... brakes ,supension,handling,tyres

if you have these 4 things you nearly have a good car

well thats MHO of coruse


Marco

 

Pectel what? T2/T6/T6M/T10 yes but the shonky old Pectel Weber Marrelli boards are hardly worth a ham shank!!

Just to clear that up.

 

so a low comp engine, about 7.2:1 with 200 block whats the best way from here to achieve 380+bhp??? (would like 400)

T34 63 degree housing and greys and wrc headgasket? If so what kinda boost???

 

Just another note on the subject...

The cost of the 400bhp conversion is directly proportionate to the sum of the parts that break around it......and also how you want the 400bhp to perform/response/ etc....you can buld 400bhp to be torquey as fook low down/ mid range or you can have it top end for track etc. Ther are a lot of variables..