help with front mount cooler
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From: stroud,glos
Started to put my pro alloy front mount cooler in today after much f***ing about got it bolted in, but even with me spaceing the rad out with washers as much as possible i only have 10mm between the cooler and the front panel,the fans are 50mm thick this means to fit them i will have to cut the front top part of the panel out between the spots has any won else had to do this cheers andy
https://passionford.com/forum/viewto...908&highlight=
pm i u need any more help or rswoza@aol.com for msn
insted of bending the piece up you should bend it down and cut half way between the mounting point for the grill, cut the panel with a junior hack saw not a grinder and make sure u paint where u have cut.
the idea of this is if u ever have to sell your car u can take the intercooler out bend the flap up re weld with 2 spots and repaint then back to standard. instead of what i have seen were peeps have cut friggin geat chunks out and covered the cut edge with edging strip that looks guff imo.
pm i u need any more help or rswoza@aol.com for msn
insted of bending the piece up you should bend it down and cut half way between the mounting point for the grill, cut the panel with a junior hack saw not a grinder and make sure u paint where u have cut.
the idea of this is if u ever have to sell your car u can take the intercooler out bend the flap up re weld with 2 spots and repaint then back to standard. instead of what i have seen were peeps have cut friggin geat chunks out and covered the cut edge with edging strip that looks guff imo.
Thread Starter
Too many posts.. I need a life!!
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From: stroud,glos
Thanks WOZA will have another look tommorow looks like they have updated the cooler a bit the top tank on mine looks bigger than the won in your link pic anyway thanks mate
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Originally Posted by Ad4m RST
Bad for water temps i hear
someone will say in depth i hope
someone will say in depth i hope

what crap
pro alloy are sorting the issue they have with there i/c for hi bhp powered cars for the act
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From: Hanworth,middlesex
in all honesty, There was NO need to cut that much of the front panel off series1ajc!!!!!! if you had taken a bit more time,you could have used a jig saw and shaped the top of the panel around the fans....
This would have made it look a lot neater and would hardly be noticable with the grill in.
This would have made it look a lot neater and would hardly be noticable with the grill in.
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From: Hanworth,middlesex
ON my mk3,I used a mk4(Series two)NEW LARGE FRONT MOUNTED REDTEC intercooler......It was proper easy to fit!!!!!!
IS larger than the pro alloy jobbie
IS Cheaper than the GRS
AND comes with two fans!!!!!
All i had to do was use a s2 rad.
I will try and dig out some old close up pics...
IS larger than the pro alloy jobbie
IS Cheaper than the GRS
AND comes with two fans!!!!!
All i had to do was use a s2 rad.
I will try and dig out some old close up pics...
Originally Posted by James Raby
Take it out - sell it - get something better
Honest opinion
Honest opinion
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From: Hanworth,middlesex
sorry people,only got one pic of my car before it was stripped to get an overhaul. this is a pic without the bumper on so that you get the gist of it
To fit the bumper it needed loads of triming,i made brackets so that i could STILL keep the grill.(without the grill i think you take the look of the s1,and it looks a bit gay.imo.
I had to trim the grill up quite a bit as well(the added bonus of this was extra airflow!!!!!!!!)
BETTER TO HAVE HALF A GRILL THAN NON AT ALL
without a grill it looks like a half done job and a bit barryboy.
OH,and i have never had ANY overheating probs,and the car temps behave NO DIFFERENT to what it used to be without the large intercooler!
Finally i cut a square out of the bumper and fitted black velcro either side of the hole,and below the bumper in the front spolier.I then fitted velcro to the no plate so that i can remove/move the numberplate to where ever i want(extra airflow without lookin too gay...
withou bumper
[img]
withbumper,lower positioned plate (FOR FULL BORE MODE LEGALLY!!!)
[/img]
With plate in original position for stealth mode ORIGINAL
[img]
[/img]
To fit the bumper it needed loads of triming,i made brackets so that i could STILL keep the grill.(without the grill i think you take the look of the s1,and it looks a bit gay.imo.
I had to trim the grill up quite a bit as well(the added bonus of this was extra airflow!!!!!!!!)
BETTER TO HAVE HALF A GRILL THAN NON AT ALL
without a grill it looks like a half done job and a bit barryboy.
OH,and i have never had ANY overheating probs,and the car temps behave NO DIFFERENT to what it used to be without the large intercooler!
Finally i cut a square out of the bumper and fitted black velcro either side of the hole,and below the bumper in the front spolier.I then fitted velcro to the no plate so that i can remove/move the numberplate to where ever i want(extra airflow without lookin too gay...
withou bumper
[img]

withbumper,lower positioned plate (FOR FULL BORE MODE LEGALLY!!!)
[/img]

With plate in original position for stealth mode ORIGINAL
[img]
[/img]
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From: Hanworth,middlesex
thanks mate.
Alot of people arent keen on the plate down there,i can understand why,but the plate blocks up loads of the intercooler and i want as low act temps as possible.
Alot of people arent keen on the plate down there,i can understand why,but the plate blocks up loads of the intercooler and i want as low act temps as possible.
Originally Posted by rightstuff
in all honesty, There was NO need to cut that much of the front panel off series1ajc!!!!!! if you had taken a bit more time,you could have used a jig saw and shaped the top of the panel around the fans....
This would have made it look a lot neater and would hardly be noticable with the grill in.
This would have made it look a lot neater and would hardly be noticable with the grill in.

I tried this and it is far to fiddly to shape the panel around the fans, so just cut it away in the end, also makes it slightly easier to remove, its not big deal cut notice it once grill is back in.......
im fitting a cat sensor tomorrow so will be interesting to see what kind of readings i get.
regarding over heating issues, once i sorted a correct temperature sensor so i now have an acurate guide to temperature (bearing in mind i have a proalloy rad as well) there is no issue a very effective rad and cooler imo.
the s1 temp sensor is different to the s2 and gives a very different reading the tuner who put my engine together put a new sensor in the engine as u would expect.i said it wasent right and even looked up the part at a local motor factors who gave me an identical part to what the tuner put in... took an old sensor off a head i had kicking around and job done, it was a male spade type sensor NOT a male bullet type.
not running crazey boost 15 psi and ive had no probs ( touch wood )
regarding over heating issues, once i sorted a correct temperature sensor so i now have an acurate guide to temperature (bearing in mind i have a proalloy rad as well) there is no issue a very effective rad and cooler imo.
the s1 temp sensor is different to the s2 and gives a very different reading the tuner who put my engine together put a new sensor in the engine as u would expect.i said it wasent right and even looked up the part at a local motor factors who gave me an identical part to what the tuner put in... took an old sensor off a head i had kicking around and job done, it was a male spade type sensor NOT a male bullet type.
not running crazey boost 15 psi and ive had no probs ( touch wood )
Originally Posted by Alex zvh cabrio
Originally Posted by gus
didnt have a problem with mine
water injection was set to come in at 40 degress, never heard it on once
water injection was set to come in at 40 degress, never heard it on once
gus some how i find that very hard to belive
mine was only on the road for 2 days but i never had any issues with it
(i did give it death aswell)
Originally Posted by Jano_OddKidd

Im hoping to fit a front mount on my S1, if it can be seen when fitted tho its not getting fitted
Im hoping to do what this bloke's done

Pretty sure my cooler is the same and hes not cut that much
Im hoping to do what this bloke's done

Pretty sure my cooler is the same and hes not cut that much
I just can't believe the amount of people that have Water temp issue's with these Coolers.
If you use old shit, you will have issue's. Replace the Radiator, or have it recored. Mine is still the standard Rad, but has been recored. My fans come on in 2 stages, one at 90° and one at 92°. They quickly drag the temperature down and then cycle nicely. It never over-heats.
Also, make sure the Modine isn't blocked and the Thermostat housing is nice and clear and has a new stat in it.
Mine is perfect from every respect with the GRS. Good coolant temps and fantastic ACT's, even with 30psi. Speaks for itself I think.
Pro Alloy's stuff is AMAZINGLY well made and all of their products are spot-on, however the RST Intercooler's need some developing. I just can't imagine where the problem is, I hope they sort it.
If you use old shit, you will have issue's. Replace the Radiator, or have it recored. Mine is still the standard Rad, but has been recored. My fans come on in 2 stages, one at 90° and one at 92°. They quickly drag the temperature down and then cycle nicely. It never over-heats.
Also, make sure the Modine isn't blocked and the Thermostat housing is nice and clear and has a new stat in it.
Mine is perfect from every respect with the GRS. Good coolant temps and fantastic ACT's, even with 30psi. Speaks for itself I think.
Pro Alloy's stuff is AMAZINGLY well made and all of their products are spot-on, however the RST Intercooler's need some developing. I just can't imagine where the problem is, I hope they sort it.
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From: OTB (On the Beach), Norfolk
I agree, but remember the trip to TRAX when we ALL had water temp issues on the way??
When you slow down or not forcing the air in, that's where problems did arise, but I DID sort it by experimenting with antifreeze/water mix and by adding water wetter
I bet most of you lot haven't even flushed the water system out incl rad since the car was new
When you slow down or not forcing the air in, that's where problems did arise, but I DID sort it by experimenting with antifreeze/water mix and by adding water wetter
I bet most of you lot haven't even flushed the water system out incl rad since the car was new
Originally Posted by James Raby
I agree, but remember the trip to TRAX when we ALL had water temp issues on the way??
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From: OTB (On the Beach), Norfolk
Myself, Carl and yourself all had 3/4 to almost red temps??
Mind you it was very hot and we didn't have a run down period, just came to a stop on a roundabout
Mind you it was very hot and we didn't have a run down period, just came to a stop on a roundabout
Im getting worried about the missis S1 now lol
We have a brand new pro alloy rad and cooler to go on it but now im not sure wether to get rid of the cooler and replace it with a grs or rad tec?
obviosly will have fresh water and anti freeze and thermostat etc.
Whats your opinions, shall i or not?
Will be running around 1.5b and about 250/260bhp.
cheers
Benn
We have a brand new pro alloy rad and cooler to go on it but now im not sure wether to get rid of the cooler and replace it with a grs or rad tec?
obviosly will have fresh water and anti freeze and thermostat etc.
Whats your opinions, shall i or not?
Will be running around 1.5b and about 250/260bhp.
cheers
Benn











