i now have more info on the problem.....

fitted the single piston baileys dump valve...and away I went. half an hours drive into aberdeen, picked up my mates ans went to James blunt concert. All going excellent, although temp is looking kinda low. Nice loud psssssht. Came out of the concert and dropped them off, went for a lap down town then BANG (no it didnt blow up) but as soon as i put the clutch in it cut out. Started it again and away I went. then a set of lights so braked, dipped the clutch and whey fuckin hey the lights on the dash AGAIN. The temp gauge was lower than ever and this is after its been running for a while now. Obviously your always better cold than hot but this was silly cold, like hardly on the half moon. So im thinking an air leek. And more so I want to know what I can do to have a dump valve successfully.

Its back off, much to my dissapointment

 

Firstly......does the car idle without your foot on the clutch?

My first ever car, all the springs on the clutch pressure plate snapped so when you disengaged the clutch it would stall the engine, would still drive fine u just couldnt push the clutch in.

As for your temps you may well need something as simple as a new thermostat......?

 

The temp is fine without the dump valve on

 

That makes no sense at all?

The sump valve if anything should only affect whether the engine runs or not, what the temperature needle reads should not be influenced by anything in the air system?

 

sounds like a air leak get your self a twin piston dumpvalve they are made for rs turbos cars with airflow meters pref a baileys dv26

 

if its causing all these problems why not leave it off??

but if you have to have one them yeah go for the twin piston, only Baileys type that'll work properly on a RST...single piston for the cossies etc

 

Same thing happend 2 my turbine last Wednesday night down the beach after parkin, went 2 drive away had 2 stop lump died and didn't want 2 start. Found out the next day it was the inlet gasket was blown and takin air in at idle and blowing out on boost.

 

It must be an air leak if its staling when the revs die, i cant see how it would affect the temprature

How cold was it way up there that night

 

firstly the only dump valve that will work properly on an RSt is a DV26 as previously mentioned. As regards to your temp, if it was a cold damp night and u werent particullarly stationary then this could explain the low temps? has it been like this since?

hope that helps

 

old fords just aint for girls

 

Told you it wouldnt work get a twin piston and be done with problems (until it starts to leak!) or blip the throttle when down changing/stopping wont cure it idling badly tho as you may of noticed.

check the temp guage sender/wiring. Pull the plug off the sender and with the ignition on earth it on an exhaust stud (makesure it isnt hot lol) and get someone to check the guage goes right upto max!.

if that is fine, replace the sender, their only a few quid and takes 2 sex to do.

the sender is located on the right of the exhaust manifold, below the engine lift eye, black plug, brown wire iirc, small, plug just pulls off.

hth.

 

Just get a twin piston dumpvalve as you will get problems with a single piston 1.as i found this out the hard way when i rebuilt me new engine and it would not run propperly

 

Put the chump vlave in the bin and be done with it !

 

You really do need a twin piston dump valve if you must have one. To be honest I would get shot of the thing and do without. There is no reason to have one on there apart from liking the sound.

 

haha!

erm no it never runs hot usually sits at the R or M but it was at the very bottom of the scale, very very unusual. I am certian there was a correlation between that and the dump valve cutting the car out.

Ok so its a twin piston then, thanks for advice.

Just for the record its thick snowup here right now

 

Ad! Although I do agree! Chatter is much nicer Julz

 

Dan, agreed, but lucky if you get it on MFI

 

Chatter is the way forward