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Old Feb 24, 2020 | 11:44 AM
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burnzy
burnzy
 
Joined: Jun 2008
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From: Birmingham
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Originally Posted by tosh
so it’s as simple as swapping the buzzer & LED + feed from 87 to 87a? I thought 87a was a permanent live?

yes it would work by rotating the float switch 180° but I would have to drill a hole near the bottom of the tank & get the existing hole tigged up or fill the expansion tank to the brim 😁
87a is a normally closed contact, 87 is normally open as per the schematic above.

in the diagram I’ve posted

t30 is your permanent supply for the timer and your switched output.

t15 is your signal wire, so your float switch

t31 is your relay ground

t87 is normally (open (off)

t87a is normally (closed (on)

so what you’ve done is right, you’ve fused your supply wire and put it onto t30

you’ve then split this feed to your float switch once the float switch is activated it sends +12v back to t15 which energises the timer once the timer times out it energises the contactor to switch across the +12v feed to t87

t87 has your LED and buzzer so they are now activated.

once topped up it’ll open the float contacts, stopping the +12v to t15 turning the light off

god I’m bored 🤣

edit: sorry my bad, it delays on operate. I’ve edited my reply as such



Last edited by burnzy; Feb 24, 2020 at 11:52 AM.
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