Hi Russ,

Im not sure what car you are installing this into so apologies if this doesn't answer your question in one hit, also are you trying to minimise wires in the loom or rebuild it to suit another car? I'll answer assuming the latter for now.

Firstly, and I cannot stress this enough. The condition and location of earthing wires is critical. These should be individual wires from the ecu to a single point (a star ground) which ideally should be somewhere on the engine block. The engine block will need a good connection to the battery neg terminal with an earthing strap from either the batter terminal to car body, or slightly better the block to car body.

The EDIS unit should be well grounded to the engine block as well.


Now, the standard ford ECU used a permanent 12v (keep alive) feed to pin 1 on the ecu, this wire is red and the OFAM does not use it. We only use the switched live (from memory this is pin 27 but yout pin out diagram will tell you more), so to power the ecu this switched live comes from the main relay via a 5A fuse.

Connections you need to keep are as follows (from the top of my head):

Coolant temp.
Manifold temp.
Amal wiring (not strictly needed but may as well).
All wiring to and from the edis unit (SAW and PIP wiring, usually shielded cable, earth at ecu end only, tach wiring and tach suppressor).
Fuel pump control wire
Throttle position.
The injector wiring.

All bits are not used, all of the diag connectors (there are two with red plugs in them I think), the CO pot, the MAP sensor etc.

Remember through that the loom has bit in there still needed such as a switched 12v feed to ignition coil, EDIS module, injectors etc.

With regard to boost control, the AMAL valve can probably be used however I have always used a modern valve instead such as a MAC valve or Vauxhall VXR/VAG boost control valve, these are fairly cheap and have two connections requiring only a connector change at most. One of the two wires is 12v switched and it doesn't matter which way round it is connected.

Hope that helps a little, also the CO pot connector is a two pin junior power timer connector, usually black I think? I recommend using the OFAM pinout diagram and buzzing through all the wiring when your done to make sure you still have all the needed bits. I will have a hunt for a standard wiring diagram... Im sure I have one somewhere.

Also if it helps, the CO pot, EDIS unit and MAP sensor are all mounted on the same plate in the engine bay so the wire length to these three will be pretty similar.

Rob,