Have followed this fault finding procedure and results are:
1) Ensure ignition is OFF...done
2) Remove rear of ecu plug cover and insert plug back into ecu...done
3) Turn ignition back on (do not start engine)...done
4) MAIN POWER CHECK: Check for DC voltage of at least 11.5V between ecu pins 19 and 20...12.28
5) REFERENCE CHECK: Check for DC voltage of around 4.8 to 5.2V between pins 11 and 30...4.94
6) MAP SENSOR CHECK: Check for DC voltage of approx 1.8 to 2.5V between pins 11 and 15...1.55!!!!!
7) THROTTLE CLOSED:
4x4: Check for DC voltage less than 0.5V between pins 11 and 17...0.15
2WD: Check for DC voltage greater than 4.5V between pins 11 and 17.
8) THROTTLE FULLY OPEN:
4x4: Check for DC voltage greater than 4.5V between pins 11 and 17...4.75
2WD: check for DC voltage less than 0.5V between pins 11 and 17.
9) Turn ignition off, unplug ecu, and turn ignition back on (don’t forget immobilizer if fitted) ...done
10) CRANK SENSOR: Check resistance between pins 3 and 4 between 300 and 1200 ohms...633
11) CRANK SENSOR: Check AC voltage on pins 3 and 4 while cranking engine - should be at least 2V. 0!!!!!
11) PHASE SENSOR: Check resistance between pins 5 and 23 between 300 and 1200 ohms...778
12) PHASE SENSOR: Check AC voltage on pins 5 and 23 while cranking engine - should be at least 1.5 - 2V. 0!!!!!
12) INJECTOR: Check resistance from pins 18 to 20 should be 2 to 5 ohms...2.7
13) INJECTOR: Check resistance from pins 35 to 20 should be 2 to 5 ohms...2.7
14) INJECTOR: Check resistance from pins 33 to 20 should be 2 to 5 ohms...2.7
15) INJECTOR: Check resistance from pins 32 to 20 should be 2 to 5 ohms...2.7
NOTE: INJECTOR TESTS MAY NEED MAIN RELAY ENERGISED ON L1 and L6 ecus (link pins 1 and 10 first)
16) IGNITION TRIGGER: Read voltage between pins 24 and 25, should be at least 4.5V. 3.8v so a little low but checked to the negative on the battery aso and the reading is the same...3.5!!!
17) IGNITION TEST: BEWARE DANGEROUS VOLTAGES ON PLUG/COIL LEADS.
Quickly link pins 24 and 25 on and off this will FIRE the ignition coil. Rotate dizzy by moving car in gear to point rotor arm at one plug lead and remove spark plug (earthing it on chassis or engine) to see spark. Try for each plug in turn. Or remove king lead at dizzy and place end within 1 centimetre of earth to see a big spark...didn't do this as have spark on all 4 plugs
18) Place a temporary wire link from pin 1 to pin 10 (energises ecu power relay) - you should hear a click...didn't do this as relays click with ignition so presume ok
19) Quickly link pins 19 to 28 to test fuel pump runs...pump primes on ignition only for a second but runs constant while cranking. Think it's normal.
20) COOLANT TEMP: Check resistance pins 29 and 11 for 800 ohms to 5000 ohms (depends on temp)...6200!!!
21) CHARGE TEMP: Check resistance pins 31 and 11 for 800 ohms to 5000 ohms (depends on temp)...6170!!!
The points out of spec are:
Number 6: map sensor voltage too low
Number 11 and 12: crank and phase sensor AC VOLTAGE is always 0V
Number 16 ignition trigger voltage too low
Number 20 coolant temp sensor resistance high
Number 21 charge temp sensor resistance high
Battery went dead over xmas as the car had been lying idle for a few weeks. Battery voltage is 12.4V but is almost dead from cranking again! Is this too low?
I have fuel to rail, changed fpr to be sure and seems the same.
I have spark.
Checked and cleaned cps and checked dps, all look and ohm out ok.
Any suggestions as it is really testing my patience at this stage
Cheers,
Philip.