This is what I do, basically:

Start off with the wheels. I've got a two post lift, so it's easy for me to take them off and allow easy access to inside the arches, but if you need to use axle stands then that's fine and do them one or two at a time.

I'd get the wheels off, give them a blast with the pressure washer inside and out, tyres too. Then spray them with Bilberry. Leave them to soak for a few minutes then give them another spraying to loosen off any dried on spray, then work it all in with a brush. For this I use an EZ-Detail brush. They are very, very good. I've got two sizes depending on the type of spokes etc. Then rinse all the residue away and dry them.

After that have a good look and see if there are any blemishes that washing them didn't remove and you don't think a good clay will either. If there is then use a little Autosmart Tardis on there. Rinse them again then give the wheels a thorough claying. I always use an old clay bar on the wheels that I've just retired from bodywork duties. If there are still any blemishes, particularly on polished metals then use some Autosol metal polish. Once you're happy with the finish then it's time to protect them. Use whatever sealants and wax you fancy, same as bodywork (on normal finishes). Most of the time some Chemical Guys wheel wax will suffice, but you can use a high quality paintwork wax on top. Then on top of that use a suitable QD. More time spent on building up layers on proection now means less time spend getting the dirt and baked on brake dust on later.

Then after that move on to inside the wheelarches. Remove any plastic arch liners and clean those separately with something like Meguiar's APC and a good scrub and rinse. Then finish them off with 303 Aerospace Protectant. Then spray all round inside the arch with something like Meguiar's Degreaser. Leave that to bake on a bit, then spray again to loosen. Work it all round with a brush. In the heavily soiled areas like this I use a cheap paintbrush rather than one of my detailing brushes. Then give it a good rinse with the pressure washer, just make sure that if you're using axle stands that you don't spray them and it's always best to have two on the go or a jack in situ just in case.

Then there's under the bonnet. Obviously using a pressure washer under here requires a little common sense, but you don't need to go to extremes. Mask off any exposed electics, but as long as you don't concentrate pressure in one area for too long you won't have any issues. Obviously vehicle electrics must be designed to take water splashes, just go easy. Give it all a bit of a rinse down, especially the bonnet shuts etc. Then use degreaser, leave it, use a bit more, agitate with a brush and rinse off. Then use Aerospace 303 on all the plastics and polish up any metalwork with Autosol.

Again, before I do the main body and panel work I'll go round all the other areas where dirt gets trapped, such as grilles, door shuts, vents, cracks etc and use APC or Degreaser to suit, and give them a good brushing and rinse.

Then start thinking about the bodywork. I use a Nilfisk Pressure Washer. I used to use a Karcher, but apart from the top end industrial ones they're nothing like they used to be when they were a more specialist product and find Nilfisk far better now. Give it a good soaking all over then it's time to introduce the foam. The Lance I have for my Nilfisk was from cleanyourcar.co.uk and the shampoo I use for foaming is Meguiar's Hyper Wash. You only need a small amount in the bottle to make a load of nice, clingy foam. Now I run the water through at 60deg, which makes the foam thicker and more effective, but this isn't essential. I always use about half the foam or a touch more to give it a good soaking, leave it about 15 minutes, then spray on the rest of the foam on before rinsing off. This is when I personally look for any dried on tar spots etc and use Autosmart Tardis before washing.

Then for washing I have two Zaino Buckets with grit guards. I fill one half way with water, then add some Duragloss, then mix it together and top the bucket up to full. I then fill the other bucket two thirds of the way up with nothing but water. Then using a lambswool wash mitt I give the bodywork a through cleaning (glass too, treat this a pre wash for glass) using the two bucket method. Follow this up with a thourough rinse then dry the car. The less touching the better when it comes to drying the car. I have a Black Baron Vehicle Dryer which is an awesome piece of kit, but not cheap. A cheaper option would be to use a leaf blower to blow away the bulk of the water and also blow all water out of the nooks and crannies. Then follow this up with a gentle drying with a good quality, waffle weave towel.

The car is now clean and dry and you're ready to really get down to business. I will add the next stages later when I get more time...