both turbo sizes are too big, read below. And for mainfold - turbo must be as close to the engine as possible, every inch of tube means gas flow, this risk of compression etc. leading to unexpected issues specially during rapid change of performance (WOT). There is good reason why that guy sold that piece. Check this vid http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rX-Uc-63X3w&feature=fvst to see how the mainfold should look like idealy.

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Hello, I am actually planing to do same thing, to make really sharp 1.3 KA, without engine replacement.
I actually made some math around turbo's and so (follow link http://www.not2fast.com/turbo/glossa...orDutyCycle=85) - but you can't use it as it is.

There we got many problems of 1.3 engine we have to think of in theory first to get some reliable figures and to start planing effective, working turbo.

1) problem number one is VE (volumetric efficiency) of endura-e 1.3
And truth is, it's terrible, just terrible, and all over again - terrible. Power peaks on 5000 revs and there system is already working on poor 57% efficiency - so with turbo it wont go better. And this is counted acc. to the 0*C temp comming to inlet of engine, so what will happen on hot summer day? Nothing nice.




You have to upgrade the flow first: def. replace original exhaust and use 2"-2.5" to be sure that backpressure fm exhaust will be eliminated, leaving it on turbo only. Different cam and better vents will be needed too. Anyway, we can start without those and see where we can pump the lump.

Basic assumption is that we need engine to pressurize tubine of turbocharger enough to get compressor to desired pressure (either 8 to 14 psi without upgrade of guts would work, at least for short performance periods).
So reality is, that with quickly dropping VE of endura-e we should focus on low rev band - 1500 to 5000.

Next: hard reality: when the turbo starts it's spool (pressure production).

Reliable is to take turbine map form Garrett and read it: fat red line for GT1544 starts about 4.18 lb/min and there we can expect ratio 1.23 (3.3 PSI)
When our great endura-e reaches 4.18 lb/min? approx. on 2750 revs! Good. Bad thing is this is just theory, so we will have a bit less PSI in system. And of course, this is all about first WOT strike after engine was some time iddle, once system starts to produce some pressure constantly, our lb/min of air gets higher and so the reaction of turbo comes earlier, speaking about revs: it has some elisticity ; lets assume that we keeps 2750 revs, while presure in intake system is then 3.3 PSI, so flow is around 4.6 lb/min, but that is equal 3200 revs with 0 PSI on intake side


And what about bigger turbo?
http://www.turbo-garage.com.ua/garag...rett_turbo.pdf
Let's check GT2052 starts to work around 7 lbs/min with 1.25 ratio (3.6 PSI)
I'd say you will have big problems to spool it: it' would go from 4000 revs in theory... totally pointless for obstructed endura. And then you will have to keep it on 3750 revs or pressure stalls again. Even if you would got up to 6000 revs, you will have no big fun about it: you will fight lowish VE of endura there: more RPM, less VE (I blame intake and cams-vents timing actualy).

So optimum is GT1544 for sure. However, with that turbo puffing into our block, we will reach much better lb/min flow so we will need it's wastegate to do a lot of work. With 15 PSI target we will need wastegate to open around 3000 revs of constant operation, around power top (5000 revs) we will need wastegate to flush almost 5.5 lbs/min of air. Or maybe not, turbine maps are quite relative But as GT1544 is used even in 2.0 engines, it should be ok anyway.