Thanks for the kind words guys

@Gjh, When she is ready she will getting remapped without the restrictor in the turbo, but as the head is on it's last legs (excuse the pun)
The power may well decrease to help save the motor and give better economy as she will be getting used daily in the future.
I have got the motor now susspended in the right place, on the crane.
There are no engine or gearbox mounts in place everything is free to be moved around.
The gearbox and prop are reattatched and I have got the whole assembly lined through from front to back. ( a lot straighter than it used to be)
To give you an idea of the missalignment that was happening, here is a pic from earlier in the thread of the prop and box before it was dropped off.
And now that it runs true.
The problem was, as mentioned earlier, the box was too big for the tunnel in width and height.
This meant that when the box was in place it forced the prop to run from right to left under the car ( the diff pinnion is offset on the 9" jag diff, to the right, see the pics of it further back in the thread).
This also meant that the box forced the engine to sit in the bay on an angle.
After the tunnel mods the box is now able to shift over to the drivers side and this allows the prop to run straight (if slightly to one side of the narrow tunnel)
the engine is also now able to sit square in the bay.
The other problem, which unfortunately I cant eliviate completely is the tilt of the engine to the rear.
This is again the box's fault.
The height of the box means it sits on the roof of the tunnel.
This wouldnt be a problem, except that with the power steering in place the engine cannot get any lower and the box any higher to allow a level run through to the prop.
You can see it here in this pic of the box from the side.
It's a tight fit at the front.
I could raise the top of the tunnel to allow the box to rise up, but there is only finger room between the big prop and the top of the rear tunnel.
So in essence I would have to remove the whole top of the tunnel from front to back to get a level run to the diff.
The only other option would be lowering the crossmember,
but that is a whole can of susspension and engine ancillery woes I don't want to contemplate.
Oh the joys eh!