Then I cleaned off the dash and put it back into storage ready to be fitted to the car soon...
Also i had some more parts shot blasted ready for me to paint them, however once i got them back I decided that it would be better to powder coat them instead as I wouldn't of been happy with just paint.
I had the rear brake disc shields done silver to match the fuel tank shields, also the rear diff front and rear hangers were done silver too.
Brake disc shields aren't the best as they are a little dented, I will see what they look like once fitted, if I don't like them then i'll get some more and get them coated.
The rear ARB red same as the rear beam and the rear hubs red.
All the holes in the hub were masked as to not get any paint in them, i'm pleased with the results....
I shall fit them in a couple of weeks as soon as I get the suspension arms back from the polisher and the polybushes delivered.
pics will follow once they are all fitted, nearly finished the rear end now, it should all be done in a few weeks.
I assembled the rear diff carriers and put in the polybushes, the diff looks great now (just waiting for the original diff casing bolts to come back from the chromers ), I will be fitting it back on the car soon.
I also put the ABS sensor back onto the rear hubs, as with everything so far on this project I payed attention to the details, the ABS sensor bracket was shot blasted (very carefully) to clean it up and then a light coat of paint added, also used a stainless bolt to bolt it to the hub.
The rear brake disc shield was fitted along with the handbrake shoe spring retainer.
Then I rubbed down and cleaned the rear wheel bearing assembly and sprayed it gloss black...
Those who are observant will notice that the bolts that hold the wheel bearing to the hub are missing, as is the handbrake shoe spring retainer nut - you guessed it - waiting for them to come back from the chromers....
(I need to take the masking tape off the wheel nut studs too ).
I picked up the rest of the rear arms from the chromer / poilsher yesterday and he's done a brilliant job on them.
Had some engine bits done too.
As soon as my polybushes arrive then the rear end will finally be put back together and the car put back on its wheels.
Here's some bits ready to be fitted....
Fuel rail.....
fuel filter bracket and fuel line....
SAS pipework...
Starter motor cover plate....
Standard power steering pot...
ABS distribution block brackets...
All the rear arms....
Its going to look great when its all back together, next job is to get the car back on its wheels and roll it out of the garage so i can fit my flocked dash which has been patiently waiting to go in for 6 months now !!!
I will, of course, put up some pics when the rear arms etc are assembled on the car in the hubs etc....
I'm at the final stages now ready to bolt all of the rear back together, all of the suspension arms are now polybushed and ready to go on.
I spent 6 hours sealing up all the seams on the chassis (with Tigerseal ) and then protecting the internals of the chassis (with Dinitrol Cavity Wax).
The idea of sealing the seams is to prevent any water getting in between any parts of the chassis and body therefore keeping out the rust.
The materials used :
The cavity wax has been sprayed internally on the rear chassis legs, the main chassis rails from back to front of the car, all around the fuel tank mounts and the spare wheel well front to back support bar. Also along the whole length of the sills (and anywhere else i could squirt it ).
Seams Tigersealed :
( I will give the seams now another quick spray of the white paint just to cover the Tigerseal ).
I ALSO SEALED ALONG THE WHOLE LENGTH OF EACH SILL.
Rear Chassis Legs sprayed inside with Cavity Wax :
Holes taped up to minimise leakage.
THE CAVITY WAX IS BROWN - ITS NOT RUST IN THIS PICTURE - :biggrin:
Getting good penetration as you can see, the Dinitrol is finding its way out of any small gap - good sign that its reaching where it should do. DON'T PANIC - I DID WIPE IT ALL CLEAN....!!
Main Chassis rails :
Again taped up to prevent leakage.
there are plenty of access holes to the chassis rails to squirt in the Dinitrol, so I just moved down the chassis leg and squirted the wax into every hole.
Then I did both sills..
There are access holes under each of the sill protectors (covered by a plastic cover, which i removed and will replace once wax is dry)
So thats my chassis protected now, here's a quick summary of what's been done to it :
1) Everything removed from rear end and floor, including whole of the rear suspension, AYC, diffs, propshaft, exhaust, brakes - EVERYTHING.
2) Whole of the now exposed floor was cleaned with degreaser and petrol soaked cloths.
3) Whole of the floor and chassis was cleaned up with various wire drill attachments, hand brushes and hand held grinder to remove any trace of the surface rust :
MY FLOOR AND CHASSIS ONLY HAD LIGHT SURFACE RUST.
4) Cleaned again using petrol soaked cloths.
5) Whole floor treated with Dinitrol Rust Convertor just to be sure that all traces of rust was dealt with.
6) Painted with 2 coats ( 3 in the exposed areas ) of Epoxy Mastic 121.
7) Sprayed with 3 coats of Gloss White Paint.
8) Seam sealed with Tigerseal
9) Protected with Dinitrol Cavity Wax.
So i'm happy now that the car is protected now and for many years to come, its been worth the long days and nights and believe me i have wondered many times "why did i ever start this" !!!!
Products used :
http://www.rust.co.uk/popup.cfm?p_i=496547&p_n=496547 - DEGREASER / SURFACE PREP
http://www.rust.co.uk/popup.cfm?p_i=405092&p_n=405092 - DINITROL RUST CONVERTOR
http://www.rust.co.uk/epoxy-mastic.cfm - EPOXY MASTIC 121
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/12-X-500-ML-SI...#ht_2304wt_911 - WHITE SPRAY PAINT
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/TIGER-SEAL-WHI...#ht_500wt_1154 - TIGERSEAL (WHITE)
http://www.frost.co.uk/item_Detail.a...20Wax%20(500ml) - CAVITY WAX
Diff is on.....
Rear beam looks pink in the pictures.... - BUT it's red....
