Classic car restorers generally steer clear of Hammerite, as it drys (eventually, about six weeks!) very hard. Hence it chips easily.
I find it strange you use that as an a argument, cos before you said this...
If your after that 'bufty' look, i would use an etch primer, then a 2 pack top coat, it's very tough, is good at holding back any rust in seams etc, and looks the part.
I understood that being hard was part of the advantage of using a 2 pack.
So... 2 pack is the way to go.
Unless... I strip the shell to the bare metal (what i planned on doing) and get it powder coated and baked.
How does the finish compare (i somehow got the impression that powder coated surfaces appear more rough) and what would enable the best paint match (could my bodyshop mix up a 2 pack to match my body)?