RE FITTING THE HEAD
1- Before the head goes on you need to check the tappet clearances.
Note the cam must be torqued to 10 lb/ft first
Luckily for my as there is little wear on the engine and i only lightly lapped the valves my clearances were with in the tollerences stated buy aston (see cardboard in pic)
If tollerences are not met, you need to remove the cam and either fit a thicker tappet (there are 4 sizes available) if the gap is to big or if a small atdusment is required to make the gap tighter you can continue to lap the valve further.
2- Prepare the block with a flat piece of wood and some fine wet and dry. If its really bad it may need a skim but it is very rare for this to be needed.
Get the studs and nuts ready.
2- Sadly my batteries died and took 30mins to recharge so i am missing a few pics here. but basically
Change the studs (use a stud extractor tool, you dont want them snappping off!!)
clean up the block.
3- Get some non setting gasket jointing compound, something like hylomar is fine (just read the instructions to make sure it is applicable for intended use, which hylomar blue is!)
4- Lightly oil the nuts to avoid a false torque reading (only needs to be coated, make sure there is not a puddle of oil as this again will affect the torque reading)
5- Hylomar the gasket up and carefully place the head on the block, avoiding any risk of scratching the skimmed surface
6 - Replace nuts and washers and torque up 40 then 60 then 75 lb/ft
Tighten up in the sequence i have taped on the head, to avoid distortion!
7- Replace rubber bungs
8- Check and double check the cams are both lined up exactly with your markings
9- Lay the chain over the cams MAKE SURE THE CHAIN IS NOT KINKED/DOUBLED UP ON THE LOWER SPROCKET IN THE BLOCK AND MAKE SURE THE CHAIN IS TIGHT BETWEEN EACH CAM SPROKED THE THE BLOCK SPROCKET
If your marking were done correctly, then the chain should simply fit perfectly on to the cams with out any problems
10- Again check the chain is tight between the sprockets
11- Fit chain guides/runner blocks
12- And wire up the bolts (you dont want these blocks falling anywhere)
13- Gather your new metal/rubber tensioner seal
check the sprocket and pin for signs of wear and replace if nessisary
14- Refit the tensioner and tighten back to the markings you made when it was removed. Make sure the nut it tight you dont want this coming undone!
15 - Check your timing (two people needed here really)
Get under the car and slowly turn the engine over buy hand
either a 36mm socket i think, of if you dont have one that big you can use a medium size flat head screwdriver and lever the crank round on the 8 nylocknuts.
be very careful and take it slow, if youve made a mistake this is where you want to find out not later. if in anyway the engine locks, have a good look as the worst case will be a valve hitting the piston or another valve.
If its all good after a few full rotations, then pull the pulley back round to the TDC mark where it was when u started, have a look up top (where the mate comes in handy) and the 2 cam marks shold be spot on in line with your tdc mark!
Also whilst your there turning it over get a mate to check that each tappet is free and moving. You would have checked this when doing the clearances but its always nice to check it again when the head is back on the block for peace of mind!
16- Refit the 4 front head bolts and tighten up
17- Make sure all 'gasket' surfaces are spotlessly clean and degreased.
Hylomar it up and refit.
umm clean
18- Fill up the tappet voids with oil.This will help lubricate on initial starup
19- Do the same for the rocker covers. The gaskets are cork, so no need for hlyomar, but i ran a small bead round again just to be extra sure
20- Loosly place the breather mesh in position, this is to save you droping any washers or nuts in there
21- replave nuts and washers, remember to fit the water temp wire
22- Refit the carbs, again make sure its all clean and smooth
23- the alternator will also need fitting at the same time as the bracket is incorporated with one of the inlet nuts
24- YOu get the idea, make sure its clean and fit
25 - fit dip stick
26 - fit water control valve, new gasket and attach wire, once again clean it right up
27- GO around everywhere and double check it all, things often forgotten are jubilee clips, wires, ht lead or a plug.
once happy, check oil and water levels.
(After a quick fire up you need to change the oil and filter)
JOB IS HOPEFULLY A GOOD'UN.
Turn on the battery isolator switch and start her up.
28- I ran it for about 10 mins, to get the temps up and rechecked the torqued nuts. You may also find it wont start to runs rough, this is most likley becuase the dizzy has moved, due to the cog sitting 1 or 2 splines out of original position when the cam was torqued down.
Heres a quick vid, hope the link works (note the proud paternal expression on my face)
if theres no sound let me know id ill try and fix it
Hope you enjoyed that.
Next week is clutch and brakes so stay tuned