Gearbox out ready for new clutch

1- Eye up the interior, your gone be getting intimate with it



2- Remove the front seats (8mm socket on rear, chrome slot screw on front)


3- Remove seatbelts


4- Prise up center console/switch gear pad


5- Lift partially out to reveal 2 screws (these secure the cowling)


6- Remove gear leather box cowling and move switch panel to side


7- Unscrew gear knob and remove leather gater


8- Remove carpets and gearbox carpet


9- Loosen center console, detach loom, heater vacum pipes and fuel mixture cable, move to one side. Then undo the 14 slot screws that hold down the fiberglass gearbox cowling.


10- With the screws out, slowly work two large screwdrivers round the cowling to break the rubber mastic seal. be gentle the glass fiber is 35 year old!!


11- Lift out the cowling (remember to remove the air con drip pipes and speedo cable which pass through the cowling)


12- If the propshaft nipple is showing, give it a grease which your there


13- Out of bordem i measured the power train length, from the front of the engine block to the rear of the gear box measures a crazy 5'11"!!!



14- Get under the car (i have a pit, but what ever you do make sure the vehicle is secure)



15- Remove slave cylinder and push rod


16- Loosen gearbox mounting (do not remove yet tho)


17- Disconnect the propshaft (you may need to jack up one wheel to rotate it if you cant get on all 4 nuts!)


18- Unbolt the bell housing


19- Disconnect reverse light wires, place a trolly jack under the gearbox. Position it centerally under the drain plug, as this is where the center of gravity is. the jack wants longtitudinal so the gear box can slide backwards.

-Slowly jack up the gear box about 3" to clear the propshaft.
-Lift out the gearbox mounting bracket (may need to disconnect the handbrake to acces one of the nuts)
- Place a bottle jack under the rear of the engine sump and jack the engine (place a bit of 3x3 between the jack and the sump and make sure it is longer than the sump to avoid damage) jack untill the gearbox just has its weight off of the trolly jack.
-Then jack the trolly jack/gearbox one pump just to take the strain.

Hopefully the gearbox and engine should be square after this, the main aim to lift the gear box higher then the prop to enable it to mave backwards. IT IS ESSENTIAL THAT THE GEARBOX AND ENGINE ARE SQUARE OR YOU CAN DAMAGE THE SPLINE

- Sit on the rear seat and pull the box, it should simply slide back away from the engine rolling on the trolly jack perfectly ballanced (A mate would be really helpfull here as you need 3 hands at some points, but it can be done as i have shown)


20- Remove the gearbox- either get a mate and carry it out the car, or lower it down if your on a ramp/in a pit.

I have chosen to leave the box in the car for the moment, simply twisted it about 5%, still with the weight on the jack and it shoudl sit there ballenced nicley.

21- Have a peak at the clutch


I have left it here, as i want to rebuild the engine before i start messing with the clutch and risk turning the pistons.