Moonstone 3-door
#81
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Cheers gav
Ok so second part of the update and everything on the rear has now been blasted rust free back to metal, including prop shaft
Using the tin of por-15 left over from underside of car everything was undercoated to help protect from any future wear, this was all done at mate’s house by brush as we found out from doing the car the paint levels itself off during painting
Again big thanks to mate for letting all this go on under his carport with heater blasting away. Once dry parts were hung up again and eastwoods chassis black used which from reading other restoration forums on net is meant to of come out best in independent tests, so over course of few nights and help of few people black went on
To add a bit of colour underneath the anti roll bar and links were top coated blue
And in break from the norm prop and driveshafts painted with bare metal silver, my hope is by the time its together even the missus can look underneath and know how a car works, though I hold little hope still
And eventually had a pile of bits ready to put back together
The bushes were fitted ready for reassembly
Sub frame was then put back together and using a jack with piece of chipboard on top was pushed into position and bolted up to car
Just quick picture showing the compression on the new powerflex bushes once tightened up
Last up was giving the rear diff new look of life without breaking the bank, when the car was running there seemed to be no problem with it and with money on a budget at moment decided to leave any thoughts of recon at the moment, first was drained of oil and steam cleaned steam cleaned to remove majority of dirt before being wire wooled to remove any last bits
Next using the aluminium blast was given 3 coats to help restore its appearance
Finally where each of the shafts connect were given a coat of black to match
And final bit of update on its way in near future
Ok so second part of the update and everything on the rear has now been blasted rust free back to metal, including prop shaft
Using the tin of por-15 left over from underside of car everything was undercoated to help protect from any future wear, this was all done at mate’s house by brush as we found out from doing the car the paint levels itself off during painting
Again big thanks to mate for letting all this go on under his carport with heater blasting away. Once dry parts were hung up again and eastwoods chassis black used which from reading other restoration forums on net is meant to of come out best in independent tests, so over course of few nights and help of few people black went on
To add a bit of colour underneath the anti roll bar and links were top coated blue
And in break from the norm prop and driveshafts painted with bare metal silver, my hope is by the time its together even the missus can look underneath and know how a car works, though I hold little hope still
And eventually had a pile of bits ready to put back together
The bushes were fitted ready for reassembly
Sub frame was then put back together and using a jack with piece of chipboard on top was pushed into position and bolted up to car
Just quick picture showing the compression on the new powerflex bushes once tightened up
Last up was giving the rear diff new look of life without breaking the bank, when the car was running there seemed to be no problem with it and with money on a budget at moment decided to leave any thoughts of recon at the moment, first was drained of oil and steam cleaned steam cleaned to remove majority of dirt before being wire wooled to remove any last bits
Next using the aluminium blast was given 3 coats to help restore its appearance
Finally where each of the shafts connect were given a coat of black to match
And final bit of update on its way in near future
#85
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The rear of car done turned attention to front end, The engine and gearbox were dropped out as one and have found new home for over a year on garage floor being turned over by hand and spanner every now and then to keep everything free
First up was unbolting engine cradle and front running gear, again my mate ed, sorry ross was round with his engine crane to help make life a lot easier
only a few bolts and away it came
Next was separating the gearbox from the engine, again few bolts to untighten, lifted the engine crane a bit then pulled the 2 apart
Back at base which has become my mates house stripped the suspension arms, front hubs and steering rack from the ungine cradle
All these bits were again sandblasted to get rid of any rust
Even the brakes which I was going to part exchange for some recon’s were blasted
And after lick of paint
Compared next to the rears were like brand new again so money in pocket for elsewhere
Everything else was again painted
Ill do a little follow up to this later, hadn’t realised had so many pics of front
First up was unbolting engine cradle and front running gear, again my mate ed, sorry ross was round with his engine crane to help make life a lot easier
only a few bolts and away it came
Next was separating the gearbox from the engine, again few bolts to untighten, lifted the engine crane a bit then pulled the 2 apart
Back at base which has become my mates house stripped the suspension arms, front hubs and steering rack from the ungine cradle
All these bits were again sandblasted to get rid of any rust
Even the brakes which I was going to part exchange for some recon’s were blasted
And after lick of paint
Compared next to the rears were like brand new again so money in pocket for elsewhere
Everything else was again painted
Ill do a little follow up to this later, hadn’t realised had so many pics of front
#89
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Steve the plumber - Ive already said to my mate once this ones done never again lol, especially when it got to this part of painting the pipes which no1's going to see
Cheers everyone else for looking and comments
Ok so onto the last bit of update and bring you up to speed with everything else looking better the real fun bit now with engine, started off looking like this even after a steam clean
Wasn’t going to be put back in a newly sprayed car looking like this after rest of work, first up was to bolt it to mates new engine stand
Next 2 coats of ford blue engine paint was applied after degreasing the block thourghly twice over with thinners and rubbing down with wire wool where needed, few minutes in front of heater to dry and block was painted
After drying the bottom half of the engine and inlet and outlet ports were masked up ready for spraying with high temp aluminium paint
Wire wooled and degreased again before painting
Process was repeated for bottom of engine after being given a good scrub with por-15 marine clean to get rid of years of road dirt and oil
Engine was then unmasked and the 3 rd coat of blue applied to the block to finish the job
Next the inlet manifold got the same treatment to match the engine it was to bolt up to
Just roughly placed on the engine here as waiting on new gaskets now before can bolt it on
Reason for it not being bolted on is rung up local ford dealer this weekend for some and was greeted by the person on other end of the phone line who’s already won my tw*t of the year award (those easily offended look at it as twit), I asked whether they had in stock gaskets for the engine to inlet box, engine to manifold and cam cover top for a sierra 4x4 cosworth, was asked for the reg number to which I explained if I gave him that would show the wrong engine anyway even though im pretty sure they are the same in principal, was then asked for chassis number to which I again explained this would show the wrong engine as the 3-door never had the 4x4 engine fitted, after a sigh he asked if I could get the part number from the existing gasket which would be hard given the state it was in, the phone call basically ended with him saying ‘well, I don’t know what were going to do then’ and me hanging up before I lost my rag. Ill be on phone to Burton power tomorrow now for some new ones
In meantime removed the old cam cover to be sent off and exchanged for a new shiny blue one, previous owner had sprayed over a red top and was looking a little tired now, top was covered with bubble wrap stop any muck getting in
Alternator and started motor where also sprayed up to match new engine colour
And that’s it updates complete, next up is gearbox and engine cradle in the coming week, and once gaskets and cam cover arrive can get on with beginning to rebuild the engine ready for going back in, with all these bits being finished the funs soon to come with trying to sort out the nest that is the wiring loom
Cheers everyone else for looking and comments
Ok so onto the last bit of update and bring you up to speed with everything else looking better the real fun bit now with engine, started off looking like this even after a steam clean
Wasn’t going to be put back in a newly sprayed car looking like this after rest of work, first up was to bolt it to mates new engine stand
Next 2 coats of ford blue engine paint was applied after degreasing the block thourghly twice over with thinners and rubbing down with wire wool where needed, few minutes in front of heater to dry and block was painted
After drying the bottom half of the engine and inlet and outlet ports were masked up ready for spraying with high temp aluminium paint
Wire wooled and degreased again before painting
Process was repeated for bottom of engine after being given a good scrub with por-15 marine clean to get rid of years of road dirt and oil
Engine was then unmasked and the 3 rd coat of blue applied to the block to finish the job
Next the inlet manifold got the same treatment to match the engine it was to bolt up to
Just roughly placed on the engine here as waiting on new gaskets now before can bolt it on
Reason for it not being bolted on is rung up local ford dealer this weekend for some and was greeted by the person on other end of the phone line who’s already won my tw*t of the year award (those easily offended look at it as twit), I asked whether they had in stock gaskets for the engine to inlet box, engine to manifold and cam cover top for a sierra 4x4 cosworth, was asked for the reg number to which I explained if I gave him that would show the wrong engine anyway even though im pretty sure they are the same in principal, was then asked for chassis number to which I again explained this would show the wrong engine as the 3-door never had the 4x4 engine fitted, after a sigh he asked if I could get the part number from the existing gasket which would be hard given the state it was in, the phone call basically ended with him saying ‘well, I don’t know what were going to do then’ and me hanging up before I lost my rag. Ill be on phone to Burton power tomorrow now for some new ones
In meantime removed the old cam cover to be sent off and exchanged for a new shiny blue one, previous owner had sprayed over a red top and was looking a little tired now, top was covered with bubble wrap stop any muck getting in
Alternator and started motor where also sprayed up to match new engine colour
And that’s it updates complete, next up is gearbox and engine cradle in the coming week, and once gaskets and cam cover arrive can get on with beginning to rebuild the engine ready for going back in, with all these bits being finished the funs soon to come with trying to sort out the nest that is the wiring loom
#92
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Yes it recommends that you do so as its sensitive to UV light, best to prime it before hand as we did with the underside of the car but being the grey por-15 rather than the silver we took chance seeing how it would work on small bit of the subframe first, if you look careful you can see in one of the pictures just testing, as it seemed fine we carried on and theres been no adverse affects so far from it
Cheers mate, worst of its over now bar the wiring loom I hope
Cheers mate, worst of its over now bar the wiring loom I hope
#95
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Cheers paul latest date is end of this month should be down there for him make a start on so fingers crossed
This is where people in past have had problems on it, if surface isnt prepared right it wont adhere to it, it prefers rusty or rough surfaces rather than the clean surface we took it to underneath. Theres few products you use before hand which is best to follow on anything major one of which is marine clean which is a heavy duty degreaser, the other is metal ready which is an acid that eats into the surface and leaves a zinc coat for the por-15 to stick to. It does so though for best its better applied directley to the metal as it does dry rock hard to prevent moisture from getting through, you can feel the difference between it and normal so called hard paint like hammerite
This is where people in past have had problems on it, if surface isnt prepared right it wont adhere to it, it prefers rusty or rough surfaces rather than the clean surface we took it to underneath. Theres few products you use before hand which is best to follow on anything major one of which is marine clean which is a heavy duty degreaser, the other is metal ready which is an acid that eats into the surface and leaves a zinc coat for the por-15 to stick to. It does so though for best its better applied directley to the metal as it does dry rock hard to prevent moisture from getting through, you can feel the difference between it and normal so called hard paint like hammerite
#96
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Just a little bit of an update tonight to keep things ticking over, As I said I got on phone to burtons power after the gordons ford episode and got gaskets ordered from there, no ask of reg, part or chassis number and here just 2days after ordering
So one problem sorted, now onto the next. Those keeping track of the thread will have seen me take the cam cover off for exchange. That plan hit the buffers when I found out being a bayonet and not screw in type there not exchangeable. Unlike the screw type cam covers once skimmed the bayonet won’t tighten down properly which leads to oil leaking. So not having Ł200 lying about at this point and after speaking to a few lads decided to take on the job myself, so from this
First job was removing the broken studs from cam belt cover which was done with the aptly named stud remover at work, once this was done the cover was put into the bead blasting cabinet at work and all paint removed
After cleaning off any excess dust and degreasing was advised to heat the cam cover up before spraying as being warm helps the paint stick, not owning a spray booth of my own set up an enclosed box with a space heater blowing in to ensure the cover kept warm, so first up 4 layers of primer
Followed by 5 coats of the closest match blue I could find to the engine paint, and first few coats it was looking great
However after drying it had taken on a whole new look
So not happy with this, and I did ponder it for a few days, went back to my happy retailer, bought some paint by complete guess a few coats darker than engine, flat the paint down to help new layer key in, degreased the block and set up mini spray booth again and presto
A much darker colour. Next step was to take the cover back to work with me and write a program on cnc machine to skim the block missing the oil filler. Due to not having phones in work was unable to photo this which im gutted about but a made a fixture using the cam covers existing bolt holes to enable me to skim over the top using a diamond tip cutter to ensure a good finish on a aluminium casting, the finished result is this hope you all like
I do anyway, a lot better than the first attempt, after a tiny bit of touching up on the corners it looks like this on engine, just waiting on my new stainless bolts and I can get gasket on and secure it in place properly
In other news of goings on since last time my daily runner (MX5) has just taken big wedge out my back pocket, as if the road tax and insurance payments weren’t bad enough my front brakes id been putting off doing are now juddering so time for renewal. First few companys rang wanted for standard discs Ł61 and pads Ł35. Just out of curiosity had a look on eBay, got the front AND rear Discs and pads Ł96 with free delivery, bargain if ever there was one. However still left a big hole in pocket so bit of cheap spray paint and wire wool and gave the gearbox a going over to match the diff’s
Hung up to enable good spray underneath where you see if you choose stick your head under (given the work on this im hoping a few people might when it gets to the shows)
And a top tip would be to make sure you give something like this plenty of time to dry, we didn’t hence the fingerprint at the bottom end but its covered with the gear lever cradle lucky enough so shall let this one slip through fingers being where it is
Other cheap jobs have been polishing the turbo by hand, not one for the faint hearted but with a bit of time and effort you can transform a dirty looking cast aluminium piece into a jewel on side of engine, first up a rough grade sandpaper to remove the divots and try to get the surface as flat as possible
Next and even less abrasive grade to help remove any scratches
Before finally a wire wool to help bring the shine back out, Not looking bad in this pic you may think but ive got to repeat this process a few more times yet to bring it out in its best light
Stopped for the time to spray the manifold silver (which I forgot to take pics of) and attempt the daunting task of trying to wrap the exhaust in heat wrap. Again a bargain find and cost me less then Ł25 for 30 meters 50mm wide direct from the manufacturers with stainless ties included. Apart from the fibre glass wrapping an exhaust isn’t too bad a job, especially with a tubular manifold, but attempting to wrap the standard system proved to be a headache to say least, not to mention the amount of fibreglass that ended up in hand but eventually got it wrapped tight and secure
After finishing the heat wrap was sprayed silver to match the engine and also change the properties of the wrap to help the glass fibres bond together better. No pictures of this yet, forgot on way out of mates as it was getting late but the finished result will be on with next update next time,
Cheers all for looking again
So one problem sorted, now onto the next. Those keeping track of the thread will have seen me take the cam cover off for exchange. That plan hit the buffers when I found out being a bayonet and not screw in type there not exchangeable. Unlike the screw type cam covers once skimmed the bayonet won’t tighten down properly which leads to oil leaking. So not having Ł200 lying about at this point and after speaking to a few lads decided to take on the job myself, so from this
First job was removing the broken studs from cam belt cover which was done with the aptly named stud remover at work, once this was done the cover was put into the bead blasting cabinet at work and all paint removed
After cleaning off any excess dust and degreasing was advised to heat the cam cover up before spraying as being warm helps the paint stick, not owning a spray booth of my own set up an enclosed box with a space heater blowing in to ensure the cover kept warm, so first up 4 layers of primer
Followed by 5 coats of the closest match blue I could find to the engine paint, and first few coats it was looking great
However after drying it had taken on a whole new look
So not happy with this, and I did ponder it for a few days, went back to my happy retailer, bought some paint by complete guess a few coats darker than engine, flat the paint down to help new layer key in, degreased the block and set up mini spray booth again and presto
A much darker colour. Next step was to take the cover back to work with me and write a program on cnc machine to skim the block missing the oil filler. Due to not having phones in work was unable to photo this which im gutted about but a made a fixture using the cam covers existing bolt holes to enable me to skim over the top using a diamond tip cutter to ensure a good finish on a aluminium casting, the finished result is this hope you all like
I do anyway, a lot better than the first attempt, after a tiny bit of touching up on the corners it looks like this on engine, just waiting on my new stainless bolts and I can get gasket on and secure it in place properly
In other news of goings on since last time my daily runner (MX5) has just taken big wedge out my back pocket, as if the road tax and insurance payments weren’t bad enough my front brakes id been putting off doing are now juddering so time for renewal. First few companys rang wanted for standard discs Ł61 and pads Ł35. Just out of curiosity had a look on eBay, got the front AND rear Discs and pads Ł96 with free delivery, bargain if ever there was one. However still left a big hole in pocket so bit of cheap spray paint and wire wool and gave the gearbox a going over to match the diff’s
Hung up to enable good spray underneath where you see if you choose stick your head under (given the work on this im hoping a few people might when it gets to the shows)
And a top tip would be to make sure you give something like this plenty of time to dry, we didn’t hence the fingerprint at the bottom end but its covered with the gear lever cradle lucky enough so shall let this one slip through fingers being where it is
Other cheap jobs have been polishing the turbo by hand, not one for the faint hearted but with a bit of time and effort you can transform a dirty looking cast aluminium piece into a jewel on side of engine, first up a rough grade sandpaper to remove the divots and try to get the surface as flat as possible
Next and even less abrasive grade to help remove any scratches
Before finally a wire wool to help bring the shine back out, Not looking bad in this pic you may think but ive got to repeat this process a few more times yet to bring it out in its best light
Stopped for the time to spray the manifold silver (which I forgot to take pics of) and attempt the daunting task of trying to wrap the exhaust in heat wrap. Again a bargain find and cost me less then Ł25 for 30 meters 50mm wide direct from the manufacturers with stainless ties included. Apart from the fibre glass wrapping an exhaust isn’t too bad a job, especially with a tubular manifold, but attempting to wrap the standard system proved to be a headache to say least, not to mention the amount of fibreglass that ended up in hand but eventually got it wrapped tight and secure
After finishing the heat wrap was sprayed silver to match the engine and also change the properties of the wrap to help the glass fibres bond together better. No pictures of this yet, forgot on way out of mates as it was getting late but the finished result will be on with next update next time,
Cheers all for looking again
#100
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Cheers both
Again cheers paul for keeping up to date, Sorry nothing major going on at moment but hopefully theres a space about to appear at robbo's so im sure ill see you down there at some point in the near future if your about
Again cheers paul for keeping up to date, Sorry nothing major going on at moment but hopefully theres a space about to appear at robbo's so im sure ill see you down there at some point in the near future if your about
#102
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Lol I know that feeling, my cars gone back a few more weeks than planned but as said he is busy down there, Hopefully when your down there sat it might be the day me and ross are bringing it in. Can hope anyway cause though its handy getting everything ready to go id still prefer to be building it again. What you doing down at his this week
#103
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I hit a neighbours car on the black ice 2 weeks ago so got to et both cars repaired & with Steph having the baby this week was the week Robbo could fit me in. Lexus was suppose to be tomorrow but now mid week & the Focus is getting done Fri, when i pick it up Saturday im taking the cossie & leaving it with him to get it mot'd a mop over & the wheels a colour change.
#106
Rock Out!!
Hi Jay, great thread. After the po15, what type of primer did you use before the finish coats of paint. (i'm wondering would etch primer damage the po15)
edited to ask, where did you get the eastwood paints and po15 from?
edited to ask, where did you get the eastwood paints and po15 from?
Last edited by baz walton; 19-02-2011 at 12:58 PM.
#108
PassionFord Post Whore!!
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I used the POR-15 on Jays recomendation and got mine from Holden Vintage and classic
http://www.holden.co.uk/search.asp
Just type por-15 into the search and it will bring up all the products they do
HTH
http://www.holden.co.uk/search.asp
Just type por-15 into the search and it will bring up all the products they do
HTH
#110
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Cheers brammer blues had mixed reactions but it looks lot cleaner for going back in now compared with before if nothing else
#112
Very much enjoyed reading this thread but it appears to have hit an abrupt end at the end of page three...! Is there another thread that picks up where this left off or am I bumping an old thread that has no further updates...?! Intrigued!
#115
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God your a Hero mate I have just finished bare metaling and repainting the bottom of my 4x4 Saff I only had a small amount of welding to do and it has taken me ages.
The pictures are great,I will be showing them to my wife so she knows I am not the only nut out there.
I thought I had perseverance, Well done Mate
Keep up the good work
Cheers Tim.
The pictures are great,I will be showing them to my wife so she knows I am not the only nut out there.
I thought I had perseverance, Well done Mate
Keep up the good work
Cheers Tim.
#116
PassionFord Regular
Any idea where i can get new inner wheel arches complete with chassis legs for the MK2 Sierra Sappire 2WD ?
My Sierra is in the same condition as yours m8 ! good job keep it up
My Sierra is in the same condition as yours m8 ! good job keep it up