McGoo 69

Good morning/afternoon readers!

Well I havnt been on much lately as ive changed direction with my escos rwd build many times since my project began but i have finally got back on track and have the right base to build on now! Group N Escort Shell > 205 block yb > t5 gearbox... winner!

I managed to get a bargain on an 80k miles 205 rwd yb engine so im now going to sell my mk1 focus rs engine which I was going to use originally for my build. The seller i bought the engine of insisted on removing the head before he sold me the engine to make he wasn't selling a pup and everything inside looks real good, it doesn't look like the cylinder head has been skimmed in the past as the brass collar is untouched, the pistons and liners look sweet, there's no lip at the top and everything inside looks realy clean so im realy happy with my purchase! He recommended to change gaskets, rings and crank bearings to give the engine a much greater life span which i would have done anyway.

The purpose of this thread is to talk to those who have built YB engines in the past to get as much info as I can so I can have a reliable engine as Its my first YB and i only want to build it once the right way!

Im aiming for 400bhp hopefully, im still kind of on a budget so I dont want to go crazy with after market parts, i will splash out where necessary but ideally I just want to keep my eye out for ebay bargins on standard items, if this means less power at first so be it..

If anyone has recommendations on a spec then feel free to post, tips like knowing which inter cooler is the best? 2wd/4x4 or escos? Which turbo should i go for? etc What are the best gaskets/bearings and rings to use? Is there anything i can do to the bores before rebuild to freshen them up? Any tips or trick that you have learnt from your builds let me know, this is an open discussion

anyway heres some pics of the engine, all i have is the engine, and the inlet and exhaust manifolds















thanks in advance!

AJC

iTrader: (6)

focus rs engine, how muc you wanting?

the YB, in my opinion build it standard coml[petely, standard compression etc.

fit a WRC head gasket and standard head bolts (or long stud) but don't fir ARP stud & nut kit.

the engine with a T34.48/55 500 cooler and correct injectors will do 380bhp and be perfect, you could use a T34.63 but 2wd's are better on a 48/55 echaust

Staffi

iTrader: (1)

Well firstly it's a dangerous game to start number chasing, or should i say costly.

Imo if it IS 400 bhp you're after i would buy a T36 turbo, or a 3071 and run them at less boost to get your goal rather than ringing the neck off a T34.

As for Spec, Radtec, Pro Alloy cooler, 55s injectors, clutch, Small Turbo Escos gasket will be fine, brakes are a must imo, group A coil, Level 6 or 8 ECU, live map ( again imo) MSD chip is good also. Breather system, cam?? Etc etc

You could also do what Andy has said above and go with a T34.48 /55 /63 , you can get close or beyond 400 just but imo as said it'll be ringing the turbo's neck. A nice genuine 370-380 bhp Cossie with similar torque is a great little road car

It all starts to add up.

McGoo 69

Ajc, send me a pm about the engine i need to renew gold so shouldnt be selling it on here its come out of a crash damaged car but i have never used it.. It look like a low mileage engine as its really clean!

Anyway back to the build, is a t34.48/55 turbo a standard cosworth unit or is it of a different car? If i can get ok power of a standard turbo that be ideal. Like you say i dont want to power chase as my goal is to get it running but i atleast want to make sure the internals are upto standard for any future upgrades.

Why do you say dont use Arp bolts?

What gaskets should i use? ?

Cheers

Staffi

iTrader: (1)

The standard turbo is a T3 and you'll only get 310-320 Max.

Billy_RS

iTrader: (5)

Decent head gasket, fresh rebuild, ab07 inlet cam, cooler, t34.48, exhaust, filter, chip, 55lb injectors or greys, -31 actuator.

Then you need a good clutch and brakes and probably want to sort suspension out while your at it.

Good set of tyres too.

opposite lock

iTrader: (3)

Looks and sounds like a good buy. Deserves a competent build and good knowledge to get them correct .

McGoo 69

Of course I will have uprated suspension and tires etc, I have all that already this thread is purely for advice on the actual build of the engine, If i dont get 400 bhp straight away thats fine but id like to build the engine to a reliable standard where 400bhp wont be a problem.

So the general assumption is that, the engine itself will handle 400bhp, i just need to be sure to give the engine a good head gasket, new rings so they dont shit themselves and then to gain the rest of the power its just cams, injectors and mapping which can be done anytime as it doesnt require a major tear down.

What can i do to the cylinder walls to give them extra life without a rebore as i dont think i need one.

opposite lock

iTrader: (3)

Personally I would have it apart and have a total fresh build . Done correctly at circa 350lbs torque it should last you ages. Are you doing it yourself?

Its all about measuring everything how would you know the bore half way down (most wear) is the same as the top ? The distance the piston comes up is critical in the chamber area I believe and needs to be spot on . Lots to consider and to go wrong.

If your bores are fine then with new rings your going to want them honed. ??

McGoo 69

May plan was to completely strip is and check everything as i go along, id like to build it myself as extra knowledge never hurt!

All i was thinking was to get the bores checked by an engineer and have a hone so that the bores have better oil retention but i realy do not want to do any over boring as id like to keep the standard pistons.

Does anyone know anyone in the north west who would be willing to give my engine a check over, I realy cannot afford to pay an engine builder unless critical work is needed

thanks

tony66

iTrader: (7)

if engine has been lying around the very least you want done is a hone/new rings,head strip-guide check,lap valves new shells[bigs/mains/thrust]
plus obviously new fastners for head with quality gasket checking/refacing block and head-along with an oil pump check and new drive
then you have a good starting point once bed in is over

if it hadnt been lying around so long i would just have thrown it in and tried it

nb head looks to have been passing across cylinders-oris it just the pic?

H11SOW

Iv got a MSD 380 chip, to run t34.48, 55lb blacks, close loop.. bought from james off his saph... if your interested.

Cossie Sean

Looking at the pictures i say its scored the bores and needs the block honed or bored to next piston size (.25?)

400bhp
big injectors, 85lb, and big turbo, GT30/GT35 int gated.
With "std" internals
slight porting to get rid of the casting imperfections.
cheeky set of cams with propper dialing in.

"400bhp" is all well and good as a number,

but id be chasing torque aswell

duty cycle of injectors, moderate boost just to keep exhaust temps high where they should be, and cams/timing to deliver power where is best for your use of your car/ability to pedal it

Sean

McGoo 69

yeh this is the sort of work i was thinking of. Does anyone recommend anyone in particular to do the hone and head checks?

What do you mean by the head has been passing across the cylinders?

McGoo 69

im not quite ready for a chip yet, i want to buy the parts and get it built up before i worry about getting it to run, thanks for the offer though

McGoo 69

yes it has scored near the top but only slightly nothing to bad i dont think, can you recommend anyone for the honing? I dont want to bore up if i dont have to as i want to keep that for a later date incase the engine needs it later on in life.

tony66

iTrader: (7)

by passing i mean the gasket had perhaps blown between cyls

ajamesc

Now it's apart you may as well bore it or fit liners if it's an engine your keeping for a long time. Keep the standard rods and fit new pistons then it will do you good for more power in the future

costina

iTrader: (1)

ARP head stud WILL and do crack YB 205 blocks and in some cases 200 blocks.

380 with 400 ftlb can be had with a T34/48, 500 type cooler, 55lb blacks and all the usual stuff.

Add a T38 and a AB07 cam 430+ is possible.

My advice is keep it simple.

McGoo 69

it must just be the way your looking at the picture as both the block, head and gasket are perfectly fine.

i dont want to bore or fit liners as this engine has never been touched or skimmed which must be rare with these engines. I just want to do a hone and new rings if i can get away with it, that way if anything happens in the future i have room for repairs.

why do arp studs crack the blocks? ill stick to standard studs in thats the case!

im definitely after keeping it simple i just want to know what provisions i should make at this stage for extra power in the future

costina

iTrader: (1)

Take a look at the threads and the casting around them. The exhaust side is prone to this, look in the water jacket and you will understand as they don't go right down into the block.