kieran_macca

iTrader: (2)

As with my previous thread on here I recently fried my loom and ended up with no spark no matter what I tried, was offered a full ghia loom so I decided to do the swap, have the loom all fitted apart from plugs behind the dash/for the dash as I want the car going before I hide everything with the dash,
So I tried starting and first problem was no power to starter when turning key so had to run a live to the starter solenoid when I wanted to try and start it, what could be wrong hear?
Next problem was the car wouldn't fire up, checked spark and getting spark, getting fuel as i hear pump priming and getting fuel at rail, cleaned all spark plugs and still nothing.
Anyone any clues?
A few things I may add is there is no earth to the head although a good earth to the block which should be good enough?was always like this, and also the gearbox loom is not plugged in but that shouldn't matter? And lastly the wires up along the roof and the wee green boxes in the parcel shelf aren't wired up but shouldn't matter either should it?

Thanks for any help, kieran

RichieST

iTrader: (2)

Get everything connected properly first, then go from there.

kieran_macca

iTrader: (2)

ok, will do that and report back hopefully tomorrow night..

kieran_macca

iTrader: (2)

update, if would appear i have no power going to injectors, tested with a multimeter etc and i dont seem to be getting any readings, traced the wires on a wiring diagram to a engine management relay at the fuse box (relay D) removed this relay to find it was badly rusted, replaced this with a good 1 from the old loom, still no luck

anyone know what else to check or my next step?

martysmartie

iTrader: (1)

A feed is sent to the starter from position 3 on the ignition, so I should think there is a bad connection at the starter or wiring problem, you can check for power at it with someone holding the key.

Verify you have spark again and the next step would be to check fuel is actually reaching the engine, i.e. what do the plugs look like?

Martin

arse end happy

have you looked at the crank sensor im sure the injectors feed off that

mřffe

change your cranksensor under the oilfilter,

if it dont know the engine are turning, then there are no pump or injector signal.

or tjek the collision switch in the boot or if its after 91 its in the leftside foodwell

and keep cheking your relays.

martysmartie

iTrader: (1)

If he has spark then the CPS is working, which he did at least at one point, so he needs to check and verify that again.

Martin

kieran_macca

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for the help guys

I'm 100% sure I have spark as I checkd again last nyt, also the pump is 100% goin so that rules that out

I had the spark plugs out 2 days ago and the were a light brown colour, not black which I would have thought they would have, cleand them all and refitted

I also plugged 1 of the injector plugs into a spare injector and turnd the engine over (being sure to keep it away from any possible sparks) and I got no spray or noise or anything from it so that sort of says I aint getting power to the injectors doesn't it?

martysmartie

iTrader: (1)

Check with ignition on you are getting power at the injector plugs.

Thing is I am not sure with EEC whether it switches the injector ground or live, if the latter case then this will give a false result, unless you get someone to crank the engine over, whilst you check the output.

If it switches the ground then you may well have power at the injectors, but the ECU not switching them like it should, an easier way of testing would be with the use of NOID lights.

Martin

kieran_macca

iTrader: (2)

Well on the wiring diagram I have it shows the earth wires going back to the ecu so I assume the ground? That means if the injectors are working I should have a constant live to them with ignition on?

If I was to wire up the injectors live to see if they would then inject would that be dangerous or would it be ok to do that just so I could see if that's my problem or not?

martysmartie

iTrader: (1)

Correct, using obviously another grounding point for your test.

Not to sure tbh i can't see why it would do any harm test for a quick test, an injector is just an electro mechanical valve essentially.

It is bad to do it for too long though as without fuel flowing through them they would overheat I would imagine.

Martin

kieran_macca

iTrader: (2)

Why another grounding point may I ask?
I was considering trying to start it with the injectors wired live and the ground wires still going to the ecu so they can fuction? Would I be correct?

arse end happy

get a side light bulb pull the wire bits down put in injector plug an crank engine should light up

martysmartie

iTrader: (1)

Because if you use the injectors ground it won't be complete as obviously this is what the ECU switches!

Do not use the above method of a light bulb, you can end up damaging the injector drivers, use a NOID light.

Martin

kieran_macca

iTrader: (2)

cheers, still no luck with any of this but was talking to a friend, he thinks it may be crank sensor, is it possible? we came to the conclusion that the spark is controlled by the distributor cap on the cam so it should spark regardless of crankshaft sensor? are we right?

JFB Tech

DOHC ignition signal is generated from the crank sensor, there is no sensor in the dizzy. The injectors have a permanent live feed when the ignition is on, circuit is made to ground in the ECU to fire them. Check the two multiplugs down by the drivers side engine mount and also the crank sensor plug. Any of these 3 plugs can get fouled up and stop the engine running.

snoopaloopa

iTrader: (3)

The injectors are fed from the engine management/power relay along with a few other things then the ecu switches the ground returns, as above check the multiplugs are making properly as you should have a permanent 12v to the injectors with ignition on regardless if its running or not? also possible is the fusebox faulty?

kieran_macca

iTrader: (2)

Again thanks for the input,

So really I can rule crank sensor out straight away if it controls spark as well? Although probably still worth a check,
I will check the 2 multiplugs now shortly and see how if that helps.
and about the fusebox? Surely it should be fine if everything else appears to be working?

kieran_macca

iTrader: (2)

Ok was out checking the multiplugs and noticed this, 1 of the multiplugs is fine, normal plug, 1 plugs into the other etc, however the other plug is wrong! 1 of the plugs (engine loom side) is 2 rows of 4 pins, but on the loom side its 3 rows of pins, 1 row of 4, 1 row with just 1, and 1 row with 4. And both plugs are pins.

Someone please tell me there is another type of engine loom for the dohc with different plugs?
This has got to be my problem??

JFB Tech

There are two types of engine loom that I know of, only reason I know is because one includes the oil pressure warning switch wiring and the other doesn't, so that may be your issue.

clyde 1800

any joy chap?

kieran_macca

iTrader: (2)

sorry for not updating. got the loom from clyde 1800, plugged all in and she fired up first kick, funny this is the only thing i got a friend to plug in, is it any wonder i do it all myself lol. but no pointing fingers, shes going now and better than ever

thanks again clyde!!

clyde 1800

no worries im having troubles of my own atm lol good luck with her