20legend_20

Hello All

I have done much reading up on this but would just like some further advice please as my car is now not only unreliable but dangerous...

The original issue was irratic idling when cold (drops below 1000rpm, judders then shoots back up before stalling. If you rev the car cold it will stall)

I had a plug-in done, which eventually found a MAF fault. Replaced MAF sensor to no avail.

Checked spark plugs - looked pretty knackered, so changed them, runs slightly better but same fault


Now it has started revving really high when I dip the clutch and brake to attempt to slow down (lasts for at least 10 seconds)


Main culprit from what I have read seems to be the Idle Control Valve? Just need some clarification on where it is on the engine.

I have a 1999 1.6i Finesse Escort estate. Am I right in thinking the ICV is on the right hand side of the throttle body (awkard to get at) and the TPS is on the left hand side?
Is it just 3 screws/bolts and a wiring plug holding the sensor in place?


I have just used some Redex so hopefully it might help in the very short term


Many thanks for reading this, I know Ford owners must be sick of reading these threads regarding idling problems, so I do appreciate it alot as I currently can't get to work without a functioning car

Mike

forgot to add : fuel ecomony absolutely terrible also, maybe fuel filter needed on top of the other issues?

tabetha

I'd be fitting a new lambda first, check for air leaks in the pcv piping, not sure where tyhe valve is on your engine, but is like a cyclinder with a alloy part on end, which has two bolts through it holding it to inlet somewhere, normally 2 wire, tps normally 3 wire, just pop into garage they will soon tell you where it is.
tabetha

20legend_20

Thanks for that mate I will order a lambba sensor now

JamesyRS

iTrader: (3)

if it aint lambda sensor then ICV is onfront of the throttle body, as tabetha said its is a cylinder with 2 bolts holding it on, is it EFi or Mfi? I no Efi its underneath the alloy inlet if this is any help had to change mine and was a right pain at points hope this is of help mate cheers

20legend_20

Ordered a lamba sensor today so hopefully that will be here soon and looks pretty easy to fit mercifully

Cheers for that James, I think its SEFI (purely guessing based on the haynes manual, but not sure) L1E ANL engine.

Ive seen pics of the actual ICV but never on the engine itself, I cant spot the bugger for anything lol which makes me think as you say it will be a pain to replace.

Will update as to what happens after changing the Lamba. Many thanks all

Mike

JamesyRS

iTrader: (3)

Hi mate yeah let us know how that gets on for you ive got a picture for you to see where it is if this your engine, if you look at throttle body ul see black wiring harness going horizontally away from it towards tps, look underneath the black harness and ul see a little block of black that disappears behind rocker cover with cylinder alloy going towards throttle body that is the control valve your looking for. I would mark picture but dunno how to put a picture on after playing with it and saving onto comp if its the other option with throttle body facing up way with manifold underneath then I will have a look at my car when it comes back from MOT station today and let you know if needed where its sits

20legend_20

Thanks for that mate. Mines the other type with the throttle body facing upwards

20legend_20

got the lambda sensor today, too dark to change it now though, and need a big spanner to unscrew it as its too tight to use grips.

think im struggling with though is the new sensor doesnt already have a plug on the end. just the 4 wires.

do i have to remove the plug from the old sensor somehow? i tried sending pics from phone to my email but it hasnt worked as yet, if it comes through ill upload them

cheers all

tabetha

If no plug fitted you will have to use your old one after cutting off, make sure the wire colours are the same though, will most likely be 2 x white, 1 x black and 1 x grey, the two whites can go either way round these are the heater circuit for the sensor, so it reads quicker from cold, the black is the signal return(reading one) the grey is earth, if missing it is because it is earthed through the exhaust itself.
If you get the engine hot the old sensor will come out easier, but also your skin will melt easier too!!
tabetha

20legend_20

cheers for that mate, will have to attempt some cowboy soldering then...yeah the engine was hot when i was trying earlier, gave me a good tickle it did haha need to get a spanner for it tomora, wasnt budging with grips.

20legend_20

Fitted the lambda sensor.... its running better once the engine is warm, didnt cut out whilst driving after fitting and revs didnt shoot up on dipping clutch, but thats intermittant anyway. Took it for a blast down motorway and it seemed very smooth. Got home, turned into drive which is a sharp left turn and it cut out ! It does this alot, which I should have mentioned aswell, am I right in thinking there is a power steering sensor which could cause that to happen? Will just have to see how it idles when I start it up in the morning. I think the ICV is still a problem, and to my dismay, I spotted it in the engine bay before - Its on the back of the throttle body (in other words, behind the engine !! :-( ) I dont see any way of getting to the bolts to change it, and dont have the experience to risk removing the throttle body from the engine. Not sure what I can do with that.

Would appreciate any advice, also anything you can tell me about it cutting out when the wheel is turned sharply would be great.

Thank you all

Mike

tabetha

Do you have a heated front screen ?, if so put it on and then turn again see if it cuts out then.
I would also have a look for any air leaks now, it really is easy to fix/check/clean the iscv even easier if a mate helps who knows his way around cars as they are very simple.
You could also try pulling the 2 amp VILOET fuse marked KAM, for a minute, this will cause the ecu to enter relearning best settings routine.
The steering normally does have a fluid pressure switch, so check connections, look especially on the crank case vent valve and pipes to and from it, follow these and there is a famous T piece that collapses and cause issues.
tabetha

20legend_20

hi mate

Nope my car doesnt have a heated front screen

ill try disconnecting that fuse tomorrow morning and see what happens

would i just be looking for cracks in the piping to and from the power steering fluid tank ?

do you have to remove the throttle body from the engine to get to the ICV? I cant see anyway of getting a tool to the bolts on the ICV otherwise... If so how risky is it for basically a novice to remove the throttle body? (I need the car to be working each weekday morning for work so have to be very careful)

thanks again

20legend_20

^^^

20legend_20

I looked in the interior fuse box, and I dont have any that are marked KAM. There is one marked KAT however but I think thats for the cat converter. Removed only 3 fuses that seemed at all relevant, numbers 8, 15 and 16. Doesnt seem too different after that. Ordered an ICV, and emailed a mobile mechanic I know of to see how much he would charge to fit it. Also ordered an air temp sensor and coolant temp sensor. Not much else I can change other than TPS lol